Well it worked better than before using the dry lube but still had a few stuck pull backs. I guess the only thing one can do is grind down that axle. I did do a little sanding on the axle but I guess not enough.
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Honda HRR Models: Rear Wheels Locking Up When Pulling Backwards
- Thread starter robert@honda
- Start date
Well it worked better than before using the dry lube but still had a few stuck pull backs. I guess the only thing one can do is grind down that axle. I did do a little sanding on the axle but I guess not enough.
I had the worst results with dry lube. If you want to try something but don’t want to convert to bearings, you may consider adding a dust seal to the wheel side and then using grease with the plastic bushings. I wouldn't grind or sand the axle since that could make the dust seal less effective. The biggest issue is junk getting inside the bushing which is why I’d look at adding an extra dust seal on the wheel side. So far the bearing conversion I did is still working better than new. Mower feels 10lbs lighter and more powerful.
Does this apply to an HRR2169VLA? My serial is in the range, but I'm missing the K in the part number.
I'm wondering if its worth buying the bulletin parts.
My mower has been getting pretty bad over the last few years. I really hadn't realized how bad it got until i came across a spare John Deere JS20. It rolls back effortlessly. I finally have some time to mess with the Honda. I removed the transmission and sanded the shaft. It doesn't seem any better. I did notice that the inside of the bushings are pretty gouged up.
I'm wondering if its worth buying the bulletin parts.
My mower has been getting pretty bad over the last few years. I really hadn't realized how bad it got until i came across a spare John Deere JS20. It rolls back effortlessly. I finally have some time to mess with the Honda. I removed the transmission and sanded the shaft. It doesn't seem any better. I did notice that the inside of the bushings are pretty gouged up.
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Probably. The design is fundamentally flawed, not just a bad production run. Checkout my thread on converting to bearings. They’re still working great and much better than even the bushings are new. Otherwise if you want to stay with the bushings I’d buy new and an extra set of dust seals, use grease and then get seals on the wheel side too. The problem is that dust and dirt get in the bushings, probably mostly from the wheel side since stock it has no seal.
wagnergtau
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Are the part numbers listed on the front page of the Service Bulletin the correct ones to order now? I just wanted to make sure there aren't new part numbers. Boats.net seems to be the only site with good prices unless someone knows a better one. Thanks!!
As far as I know, yes. Just make sure you get extra dust seals and epoxy them to the wheel side of the bushing. That is looking like a good and easy option.
Update: Okay after I've gone into a tear down and sanded the shafts again, and used the door lock lube I've just about fished one season with no lock ups. I think grease will harden, and along with dirt, doesn't help the cause.
I used some teflon dry lube spray. It worked well until it didn't (few mows as I recall). That was the <worst> lockup I've ever had. Whole thing was so hot it seized and would roll backwards at all and would kill the motor engaging self propelled. Graphite powder was far better in my experience if anyone wants to work with dry lube. I do think adding an extra dust seal is the most critical aspect though.
That was my "next" fix. Though I'm not sure I can get on board with the personal pace handles so I was looking at the commercial side... this is pretty much what I had in mind as the replacement "in anger" for my consumer Honda.
Huge over kill for a < .5 acre lot... but I've spent A LOT of time messing with this stupid HRR216....
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