Hit a stump, mower died, need help troubleshooting please.

[bertsmobile1]

The whole set up relies on the belts being exactly the same width.
As the long one is now thicker than the short, the short belt will always be turning faster than it should.
Net result is the range of speeds changes quite drastically.
Some times they won't go on the slow settings and other times they wont go as fast.
The top belt tension is fixed by that !#*! spring.
The pedal changes tension on the bottom belt which of course has to work against that !#*! spring.
When that happens the middle bit moves and thus one belt sees a bigger pulley and the other a shorter.
It is a finely balanced system.
So if you have the "gear" steps don't be worried if you get no drive in 1 & 2 positions.

If you find it a problem then you know how to change the top belt now, it is the easier one.
Generally customers think I am trying to pad out the bill when I tell them both have to be done.
So I just change the one.
Usually before the season is out I get called to change the other one so they pay a lot more labour.

And congratulations once again.

Tripple check that belt run before you fire it up.

It is very disappointing that whoever sold you the belt did not suggest doing both belts

 

[AFProdigy]

The whole set up relies on the belts being exactly the same width.
As the long one is now thicker than the short, the short belt will always be turning faster than it should.
Net result is the range of speeds changes quite drastically.
Some times they won't go on the slow settings and other times they wont go as fast.
The top belt tension is fixed by that !#*! spring.
The pedal changes tension on the bottom belt which of course has to work against that !#*! spring.
When that happens the middle bit moves and thus one belt sees a bigger pulley and the other a shorter.
It is a finely balanced system.
So if you have the "gear" steps don't be worried if you get no drive in 1 & 2 positions.

If you find it a problem then you know how to change the top belt now, it is the easier one.
Generally customers think I am trying to pad out the bill when I tell them both have to be done.
So I just change the one.
Usually before the season is out I get called to change the other one so they pay a lot more labour.

And congratulations once again.

Tripple check that belt run before you fire it up.

It is very disappointing that whoever sold you the belt did not suggest doing both belts

Ah yes, that makes sense. Well, I might as well just change that one out tomorrow. The local parts store did have one, luckily. Although I wish they had suggested I get that top one as well. Oh well. Live and learn.

Thank you for the explanation about how those belts work. I kept looking at that lower belt and how loose it is. I kept wondering how in the world that worked like that. I knew something had to tighten it up, but wasn't sure. Now I understand.

Does the same concept about the belt width apply to the mower deck belt? Or is that independent from that issue?

The new belt is made up of some sort of newer material. I asked the parts guy what it was. I am pretty sure he said "kevlar". The old belts are the old style black rubber.

 

[AFProdigy]

I successfully replaced the upper and lower drive belts. She starts up great and runs good (for the most part). I still seem to have what I think you call "surging" where it seems like the fuel or pressure drops, kicks back in, drops, kicks back in, etc. I don't know if you call that surging. It is not accelerating faster, but rather experiencing momentary drops in power or something. I see the linkage on the carburetor kick back and forth (open/close) when that is happening. It only happens at full throttle and stops if I decrease throttle just a little.

It also seemed a bit sluggish on the slowest speed while driving. Almost as if it might die, but never did.

https://youtu.be/LdifDdZftMw

Are there any new recommendations or should I still check out what was recommended previously about checking the carburetor and such? I thought I had fixed the problem with my adjustment to the throttle cable. It seemed like it helped anyway. Maybe it was coincidence?

The new blades arrived today. I will try to install them tomorrow.

 

[EngineMan]

going by the video it still seems to be running now and then a little rich, check the carb again, also make sure that any springs from the gov to carb are on right.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Surging is always due to a too lean fuel mix.
Either an air leak after the venturi in the carb ( the bit where the fuel mixes with the air )
Or not enough fuel to mix with the air in the first place.
So for starters.
Get some WD 40 or similar in a TRIGGER PACK, not a spray can and liberally spray it all around the carb & manifold.
If the engine starts to blow smoke or runs funny then you have an air leak.
Overtightening the carb will cause this.

No joy there, clean the carb, check for obstructions in the main jet or emulsion tubes.
Detailed instructions are available in the repairs section of http://outdoorpowerinfo.com.

No joy there then keep going back through the fuel system to the tank & tank cap.
If you removing the tank cap and blowing backwards through the fuel line relieves the symptoms then the tank has a blockage.

 

[EngineMan]

Do the above post, check that O-ring that you know of on the pipe that goes to engine and also gasket if any on the engine side of the carb.
To me it sounds rich, but I could be wrong.
Can you tell us what type of carb is on it please.

Also take a look at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=puw5revdcbE&html5=1

 

[Boudreaux In Eunice La.]

Yes do what Bert says...... If all that fails then it's time to go to the governor.... You did have that engine apart so something might have gotten out of adjustment..............

Let us Know Mon Amie ~!~!

 

[AFProdigy]

Hi again! The mower seemed to be doing well when I started it today. I put the new blades on and decided to try to mow. I noticed a knocking noise developing. I am having a hard time figuring out if it is coming from inside the engine or outside. It is definitely around the engine though. I have tried to look for anything that might be hitting or rubbing, but don't see anything obvious. Everything feels like it is still tightly bolted on. Here is a video of the noise...

https://youtu.be/w9LBIKQq0kE

I started to hear what almost sounds like something rattling around inside the engine, but only when I accelerate. It is random and makes me envision something floating around in the engine in the oil. I could be wrong, but that is what it sounds like. I am concerned something else broke in there or I somehow missed a broken piece of the timing gear or camshaft. Ugh. I will have to try to get that noise on video tomorrow.

The grass has grown pretty tall since the mower has been down for a while. I set the deck to 3" (what I normally use) but the mower struggled and vibrated pretty hard through thick patches. I raised it up to 4" which made it a bit easier on the mower, but it still struggled through thick patches, just not as bad. I doesn't seem to do as well as it did before hitting the stump and working on it.

 

[Darryl G]

Let me preface this by saying that I am not one of the experts here. It sounds like it could be a rod knock due to a bad bearing, but, listening on my crappy phone speaker it sounds to me like it could just be an exhaust leak. I would check and make sure that the exhaust is on properly and tight and, if equipped with a gasket, that it's in good condition and positioned properly.

 

[Luffydog]

Check the gap on the coil but it doesn't sound like that. With the plug out turn it over by hand see if you can feel it or hear it