HELP Please...it caught fire

JDgreen

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Ah, I still think it was good luck. This old mower cuts and looks suprisingly good, I wouldnt hesitate to just drop a new motor in it.

They give me a push mower, said they couldnt get it to run, I messed around with it, mowed part of my yard with it earlier, so I cannot complain.

Appreciate the links Robert and Kenny, Ill check those links out.

Inline 300's are still good engines, if you can get past the fact new engines make over 400hp in trucks, gobbs of torque and just as reliable with better fuel economy...:D

Oh yeah...have a '90 F-150 with the inline 300 with FI, tow rating was 5000 lbs, put on a Flowmaster exhaust system and it would pull 7000 easily, best engine Ford every made.
 

inline300

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Ive had a couple trucks with the 4.9 engine. The 95 model I have now, I put headers on it, freed up the exhaust, electric fan. Seems to pull a tad better. Had it for 13yrs now, still putts along like it did when I got it. The 4.9 engine makes no sense in a truck until you tow with it, then it seens to come alive and make perfect sense. haha

Little update on the mower situation.

Still revs way too high and adjusting the throttle down via the throttle lever does nothing to slow it down. It does seem like a air leak or vac leak, whatever its referred too on small engines.

This is what I do know.

Engine still has compression.

Oil level appears normal.

Carb is fine, I took it appart, cleaned it. The plastic piece that holds the choke blade melted off due to the fire but I removed the choke blade, so thats not an issue. Right now Im using two fingers as a manual choke, until I can figure out whats causing the over rev condition, once thats figured out, Ill fix the choke blade.

I checked the intake to carb gasket, there are no cracks or breaks. I replaced the intake to cylinder head gasket.

This is what I noticed and am not sure what the correct setting(s), should be, maybe someone can fill me in.

With the throttle lever in the slowest position, the throttle blade is still 3/16 or so open, to me that seems excessive. There is a throttle stop on the top of the carb, if I close the throttle blade until the hinge makes contact with this stop, the engine dies. With the way this thing revs up hard youd think it would have a massive air leak somewhere, so the fact the engine dies when the throttle blade is closed kinda puzzled me, Id expect it to bog down and then die but it just flat dies. As mentioned, with the throttle lever in the slowest position, the throttle blade is still 3/16" open. From this point to wide open, the engine seemingly runs wide open. If I manually close the throttle blade from the 3/16" position until it hits the throttle stop, I can get the engine to gradually wind down, or decrease the rpms in a linear manner until it dies. But from the 3/16" or lowest throttle lever setting, to full throttle setting/ throttle blade wide open, the rpms seem to be the same, which to me suggests a huge air leak somewhere.


I dont know what the head gasket or internal passages look like, so I have no idea if a blown headgasket would cause this issue, the cylinder psi cold was 50 psi and again, I dont know if thats considered normal or extremely low? If its low, then I might think its the head gasket.

Another thing Im not clear on, is if I let this thing run at the rpms its running (excessive) for say ten twenty seconds, oil shoots out the breather tube. Which tells me pressure is building up in the crankcase or whatever you call it on a small engine, which kinda suggests to me it could possibly be a blown head gasket. Maybe not, as again, I dont know how these things work internally, so perhaps if it has an oil pump, then excessive rpms and oil shooting out the breather might be normal but if the oil circulates via another method, then Id have to lean back to excessive pressure inside the crankcase or blown head gasket.

I may very well be over thinking it all, so any input appreciated. Right now Im just guessing.

Im fairly certain the fuel side or carb is fine, hell, it has a little carb like the atc70 I redid, not alot going on inside there. The float inside the carb is fine, I checked its buoyancy.

Again, any input appreciated, and yes, I had my fire extinguisher on hand. :biggrin:
 
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twocycletim

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I would suggest cleaning the carb, and while doing so inspect the needle valve. a piece of trash could be keeping the needle valve open, or the valve could be worn out. I had the same problem with a 12.5 hp kawasaki on a toro walk behind, cleaning the carb fixed it!:thumbsup:
 

inline300

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Already tried that.

Check out my last post, see what you think.

Thanks
 
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twocycletim

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50psi is too low should be 90 or better, your probably on the right track with the head gasket. Have you tried spraying the mating surfaces with carb cleaner while it is running, to see if the engine changes tempo?
 

inline300

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Think it is the head gasket.

I dropped the bowl on the carb to double check the float and needle/seat, and it was definitely stopping the gas flow, so it works fine.

Took the engine cover off and noticed a dark spot on the cylinder gasket.

Rigged the engine so it would run and run at a low rpm.

All I had on hand was wd40, so I sprayed the spot and definitely noticed movement, meaning air is escaping, I dont think thats the cause of the problem but I think it, at least in my amatuer opinion, would suggest the cylinder gasket has potentially failed elsewhere, if not related too this leak, not visible to the naked eye.

It kinda makes sense to me, cause if a headgasket blew on a big 4 stroke engine, youd see unusual things happen as fluid spewed out in peculiar places, so I would rekon the same would apply to the small 4 stroke. :biggrin:

Open to thoughts. Like I say, I dont know what in the hell the internals look like on the small 4 stroke or what is reasonable to expect, have dial up, so watching the available online videos isnt an option.

Thanks
 
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inline300

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Im guessing yes but the head bolts are torque to yield correct?


Anyone have or know where to find the torque specs?


So far I removed the head cover, or whatever you want to call it. The gasket seemed fine, except at the bottom left, there was a bit of oil, seems the cylinder/piston was drawing in some oil through the bolt hole.

I also noticed the head bolts were extremely easy to remove, so Im thinking that may have been part of the problem too.

We shall see.

Once I get some carb gaskets, new intake and head gasket, Ill know more I guess, running out of possibilities.

Theres really nothing to these things, after I get a look at it.

I noticed alotta casting flash inside the exh and int ports, makes a perfectionist fella wanna break out the grinder.:biggrin:

Thanks folks.
 

KennyV

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Anyone have or know where to find the torque specs?



I noticed alotta casting flash inside the exh and int ports, makes a perfectionist fella wanna break out the grinder.:biggrin:

Thanks folks.

You can find all your torque specs here... Small Engine Specifications Index


Porting and polishing is something that helps engines toward the big end, you are not going to put those kind of RPM on this engine... I hope:biggrin:....

If you do that don't get too carried away, I would just leave it and consider the the obstructions as turbulence inducing mixing refinements :laughing:...

Take the head off and see what you find... I like Copper Cote spray, don't know that it's necessary but I have always used it on head-gaskets... :smile:KennyV
 

briggs

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to me it sounds like head gasket ... ..I would also check the valves to make sure they are closing properly ...also have a look at your flywheel key if its off set a little this would cause a fire in the carb ...Good luck and let us know how you make out
 
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