Thanks everyone for all the info! After spending quite some time yesterday, along with lots of heat, lots of penetrant and even more cursing, I was unable to break down the spindle! The piece on the bottom of the spindle at the blade bolt just would not break loose! So, I will be replacing the spindle assemblies!
Correct me if I'm wrong, but when I looked up the model referenced (HD52, 991083), its showing WHAT APPEARS TO BE an aluminum spindle HOUSING of a standard configuration. THE DESCRIPTION MENTIONS USING SELF-TAPPING SCREWS, which is common with aluminum housings, less so with steel or cast iron parts. The housing may be thicker than many-I can't tell by looking, but the spindle and bearings would be hefty even without the housing.
If you're intending to order new spindle assemblies there are a couple more things you can try before giving up.
A steel bearing in such a housing is most likely rust bound, with the rust actually penetrating into the porous aluminum, and most standard penetrants would have a
very tough time getting it loose. That;'s even if you pour in the penetrant from the top, and either block it from coming out the bottom or sit the part in a pan that keeps the penetrant in contact with the lower part of the casting-and let the part sit at least overnight or a weekend.
If you're intending to order new spindle assemblies there are a couple more things you can try before giving up.
One is heating the entire assembly and then, while its hot, using dry ice or one of the new freeze-off products on the lowest part of the spindle, protecting the housing from contact with the cold medium.
Another, if you haven't already tried it, is to completely support the spindle housing from below and SHARLPLY strike the top end of the shaft with something heavy that won't damage it-such as a dead blow hammer, or a heavy hammer with a piece of wood between the 2.
When I've used this method I first tried penetrants AND/OR HEAT (or used the product below).
i drill a hole through a piece of 2x8 or 2x10 that is just barely large enough for what's held in the lower part of the casting to pass through. If teh spindles are still on teh deck, you may meed another piece of 2x material under the first one to have the full weight of the deck holding the spindle housing in place.
Another is using a CHELATING product for steel/iron.
If you're not familiar with chelating its a process/procedure designed to work SELECTIVELY on specific metals, without harming other materials. Its most commonly used in medicine to remove toxic metals or high levels of otherwise non-toxic metals from people. Its also used inindustry.
I've been using one on rusted steel parts lately and the result have been remarkable-you might want to try it or another similar product. It ONLY WORKS ON FERROUS METALS (those containing iron)
It doesn't do any harm to aluminum, copper, brass,or other metals.
This one is safe enough to pour down a household drain, or on soil, or to immerse your hands in without harm. .Its reusable until its exhausted-just filter the iron residue out if you want.to pour it down a drain.
There is a gel formula and a liquid, I use the liquid. A quart o fteh liquid is about $14. at Walmart. I bought a gallon on Amazon for about twice that price. The gel is much more expensive.
Evapo-Rust ER012 Super Safe Rust Remover
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