Hard snap back portable generator

All right, thank you for the information. I couldn't find anything on this engine. And duromax claims to be made in America, what a laugh.
So, what I gather you're saying is, find a torque chart and then match the bolt or screw size that I am torquing to the corresponding bolt/ specs on the chart.
Thank you for the tip much appreciated
 
The new gasket kit arrived yesterday, but it was late. it's been too cold to go out this morning. I appreciate all the advice and tips from everyone. Your input has really helped.
I'm open to any advice before installing the gasket kit, thanks again
 
Some of them China engines are a Honda clone like for example the ones labeled Predator by H Freight. If you get hung try looking at the Honda Service data.
 
Hey everyone, I am still not able to start my generator, by hand or electric start.
I put new gaskets in, adjusted the valves, re-gapped the spark plug, cleaned the carburetor jets and put a new shaft key in.
The problem still remains. It's extremely hard to turn over, unless I remove the spark plug.
When I do get a good pull, it sputters like it's not getting fuel. If I adjust the choke while it's sputtering, it dies. If I do nothing, it dies after 2-3 seconds.
Any ideas? Thanks.
 
Appears you have lost some ground. (it would at least run before you did the new gaskets, but was hard to rope pull)

I noticed you said it was one cog off in a previous post but would run ok, just hard to rope pull.

Usually a engine will not start or run one cog off if you are talking about the cam/crankshaft alignment marks.
Did you change the one cog off alignment?

Next I would think about getting the engine to where it will electric crank.
You say you do not have a key for the switch. Most generally on a gen You can hot wire for a test run or install another switch or even try a lawn tractor key.
The reason I say to get an electric crank is I've seen engines that would electric crank start good but hard to rope pull. (and takes a 12v battery usually rated to at least 275CCA during cold weather. A larger automotive 12v battery is even better.

Next: What specs are you using to adjust the valves?
 
I was wrong about it being 1 cog off. I have issues bending forward, so I wasn't eye level.
I've got the OEM battery charged now and will try that.
First, I finally got the valve clearance from Duromax.
.006 intake
.008 exhaust
Since I didn't have the exact specs before, I took the average of a few Honda clones online. I'll be dialing those in today.
 
shadetree#1 said:
Appears you have lost some ground. (it would at least run before you did the new gaskets, but was hard to rope pull)

I noticed you said it was one cog off in a previous post but would run ok, just hard to rope pull.

Usually a engine will not start or run one cog off if you are talking about the cam/crankshaft alignment marks.
Did you change the one cog off alignment?

Next I would think about getting the engine to where it will electric crank.
You say you do not have a key for the switch. Most generally on a gen You can hot wire for a test run or install another switch or even try a lawn tractor key.
The reason I say to get an electric crank is I've seen engines that would electric crank start good but hard to rope pull. (and takes a 12v battery usually rated to at least 275CCA during cold weather. A larger automotive 12v battery is even better.

Next: What specs are you using to adjust the valves?
Click to expand...
And I made a key for the ignition. It's not pretty, but it works! IMG_20230218_152917.jpg
 
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