Hard snap back portable generator

[Daniel 3721]

I got the generator started! I did check the compression relief valve when I had the engine apart, I just forgot about it. That was fine.
It runs kind of rough. I'm not sure if I have the springs on correctly for the carburetor, as I continually have to adjust the governor arm to keep it running.
I did start it with the battery. However I had to hand rotate the flywheel past top dead center for it to start. And it also has a hard kick that shakes the whole generator when it dies out. And I think that is the top dead center compression.

 

[shadetree#1]

Just a hint:
To do a quick test to see if reducing the valve lash will do any good so as to get a compression relief I first measure the valve lash, for example if I know the ACR is on the intake valve on a single cylinder OHV engine I FIRST MEASURE THE VALVE lash with a feeler gauge and if the lash is over specs I just add additional gauges under the rocker to bring the lash to min spec and test the crank and if it still hangs I take the lash little at a time to below specs and sometimes just .002 or so below specs will get a good crank. For example yours is .006 now, try using a .002 gauge under the rocker so as to take the lash to .004 and test crank. On some engines you can feel the difference in compression release manually turning the crank to get an idea if you are getting
This is more user friendly and quick instead of constantly adjusting the lash and testing.
AND sometimes YOU WILL FIND when you first adjust the lash to specs it will crank/run ok for couple of days and the lash will loosen up and be out of specs when checked again and need reset again.??????????

Sometimes just .001-002 will make big difference in compression lock on some engines.

On electric crank engines, especially generators if you take valve lash to below specs and it still won't crank good check your electrical and starter and battery CCA capacity.

 

[shadetree#1]

edited typo above

 

[shadetree#1]

Honda and Honda clone engines such as the Predator engines might have the compression release on the cam shaft exhaust valve. (instead of on the intake valve)
It's quite common for the ACR to fail which will usually require replacing the camshaft.
On some engine such as the Briggs Intek single cylinder OHV the ACR is on the intake valve and when the intake valve lash is set to .003 at 1/4 inch ATDC and the engine rotated slowly the rocker arm can be seen to do a slight dip just before TDC indicating that the ACR on the camshaft is operating.

You might watch for this slight dip on either valve on your engine (especially the exhaust valve) and take the ex valve lash to minimum and see if you get a ACR.(Automatic Compression Release)
I do realize that it being a generator that the complete gen has to be removed to access the sump/engine internals.

Here is a link to some info about the ACR on Predator engines:

Predator valve adjustment help

I know not many people run predators yet but we do at our track. It was low on compression when cold so we adjusted the valves to factory which is 5 and 7 thousandths(int/exh). Not sure if this is supposed to be a cold or hot adjustment. The manual didnt specify. What do you guys set them to if...

4cycle.com

Let us know what you see/find?

 

[Daniel 3721]

Honda and Honda clone engines such as the Predator engines might have the compression release on the cam shaft exhaust valve. (instead of on the intake valve)
It's quite common for the ACR to fail which will usually require replacing the camshaft.
On some engine such as the Briggs Intek single cylinder OHV the ACR is on the intake valve and when the intake valve lash is set to .003 at 1/4 inch ATDC and the engine rotated slowly the rocker arm can be seen to do a slight dip just before TDC indicating that the ACR on the camshaft is operating.

You might watch for this slight dip on either valve on your engine (especially the exhaust valve) and take the ex valve lash to minimum and see if you get a ACR.(Automatic Compression Release)
I do realize that it being a generator that the complete gen has to be removed to access the sump/engine internals.

Here is a link to some info about the ACR on Predator engines:

Predator valve adjustment help

I know not many people run predators yet but we do at our track. It was low on compression when cold so we adjusted the valves to factory which is 5 and 7 thousandths(int/exh). Not sure if this is supposed to be a cold or hot adjustment. The manual didnt specify. What do you guys set them to if...

4cycle.com

Let us know what you see/find?

I first want to apologize for not responding sooner. It's been overcast with snow and my only means of charging is a small solar panel with two 5 volt outputs. I could use my vehicle but the gas is expensive to just charge a phone.
There were so many different "opinions", it's difficult to pick the "right one".
I've read different threads where they say to go 10° past top dead center for this issue. I don't think I want to get into how to determine what 10° past TDC is on my engine.
I remember the release mechanism on the cam shaft, was intact and had free movement. I'm assuming that means it's working.
I'm going to open the valve cover, hand turn the engine and the proper direction, until the intake valve opens and closes, the slight dip, as you put it.

Honda and Honda clone engines such as the Predator engines might have the compression release on the cam shaft exhaust valve. (instead of on the intake valve)
It's quite common for the ACR to fail which will usually require replacing the camshaft.
On some engine such as the Briggs Intek single cylinder OHV the ACR is on the intake valve and when the intake valve lash is set to .003 at 1/4 inch ATDC and the engine rotated slowly the rocker arm can be seen to do a slight dip just before TDC indicating that the ACR on the camshaft is operating.

You might watch for this slight dip on either valve on your engine (especially the exhaust valve) and take the ex valve lash to minimum and see if you get a ACR.(Automatic Compression Release)
I do realize that it being a generator that the complete gen has to be removed to access the sump/engine internals.

Here is a link to some info about the ACR on Predator engines:

Predator valve adjustment help

I know not many people run predators yet but we do at our track. It was low on compression when cold so we adjusted the valves to factory which is 5 and 7 thousandths(int/exh). Not sure if this is supposed to be a cold or hot adjustment. The manual didnt specify. What do you guys set them to if...

4cycle.com

Let us know what you see/find?

 

[shadetree#1]

Watch both valves.
I seen where Honda and Predator engines also have the compression release on the exhaust valve.
Watch for the dip on the exhaust valve.

Appears you have a carb problem also or the carb springs in wrong.
If you can get it running smooth using the electric start just go with it until weather gets warmer.

Summary:
I would try to get the carb/engine running smooth for now and not be concerned about compression lock because you say you can back it up and get a run at a start electrically. Valves being a little bit off won't affect the smooth run once it's started.

Make sure that the carb is not leaking fuel into the intake and Hydro locking the engine. (Gas on top of piston causing the lockup and NOT ACR failure)

 

[Daniel 3721]

Watch both valves.
I seen where Honda and Predator engines also have the compression release on the exhaust valve.
Watch for the dip on the exhaust valve.

Appears you have a carb problem also or the carb springs in wrong.
If you can get it running smooth using the electric start just go with it until weather gets warmer.

Summary:
I would try to get the carb/engine running smooth for now and not be concerned about compression lock because you say you can back it up and get a run at a start electrically. Valves being a little bit off won't affect the smooth run once it's started.

Make sure that the carb is not leaking fuel into the intake and Hydro locking the engine. (Gas on top of piston causing the lockup and NOT ACR failure)

The intake valve
was off by 0.003, reading 0.009.
I reset it to 0.004, and the exhaust to 0.006, reducing the clearance by 0.002 for each. I think that is what you recommended.
I won't start it until you confirm.
The carburetor doesn't visibly leak.
When I took the valve cover off, there was gas on the gasket face, as if fuel was pushing past. Not sure why.
After I hear back from you, I'll crank it over, then pull the spark plug and see if there's gas on the piston head.
This could be my imagination, but turning the flywheel/engine by hand, feels easier to go past TDC, by about 25%.
I really appreciate your time and any other advice.
thank you

 

[shadetree#1]

Do this but be careful and have the rig outside.
Disable the ignition so as to not get a spark. (gas may spew out the spark plug hole is why the ignition is being disabled)
Check the condition of the oil for gas contamination and also if the oil level is indicating high it may have gas in the oil.
Pull the spark plug and rope crank the engine to see if gas spews out.
If it does spew gas or you detect oil/gas contamination your carb needle/seat is leaking and you failed to turn OFF the petcock on the bottom of the gas tank.
On emergency gen's ALWAYS turn off the petcock when the gen is not being used.

Next after gas contamination is taken care of:
Re-install the spark plug leave the ignition disabled and the gas petcock off and slowly pull the rope and feel for compression comparison of before you adjusted the valves.
Next: enable ignition, turn on gas petcock and compare rope pull. Is it the same or harder to pull through? (this is checking ignition timing BTDC)
Did you see a slight dip on the EX or Intake valve as you slowly rotated the engine towards TDC?

You say you DEPEND on this gen for off the grid electric.
You need to eventually keep and eye and ear open for a better more reliable generator and if cold weather, get electric start and possibly even dual fuel type engine.
Trying to depend on a China made emergency generator is never a good thing, but you already know this.

 

[Daniel 3721]

Do this but be careful and have the rig outside.
Disable the ignition so as to not get a spark. (gas may spew out the spark plug hole is why the ignition is being disabled)
Check the condition of the oil for gas contamination and also if the oil level is indicating high it may have gas in the oil.
Pull the spark plug and rope crank the engine to see if gas spews out.
If it does spew gas or you detect oil/gas contamination your carb needle/seat is leaking and you failed to turn OFF the petcock on the bottom of the gas tank.
On emergency gen's ALWAYS turn off the petcock when the gen is not being used.

Next after gas contamination is taken care of:
Re-install the spark plug leave the ignition disabled and the gas petcock off and slowly pull the rope and feel for compression comparison of before you adjusted the valves.
Next: enable ignition, turn on gas petcock and compare rope pull. Is it the same or harder to pull through? (this is checking ignition timing BTDC)
Did you see a slight dip on the EX or Intake valve as you slowly rotated the engine towards TDC?

You say you DEPEND on this gen for off the grid electric.
You need to eventually keep and eye and ear open for a better more reliable generator and if cold weather, get electric start and possibly even dual fuel type engine.
Trying to depend on a China made emergency generator is never a good thing, but you already know this.

Thanks for the good advice. I will check for gas coming out the spark plug this afternoon.
I didn't notice any dip on either the exhaust or intake. Two things happened at top dead center.
The first time the Piston came to TDC, both rockers had no movement or play. As I kept pulling the rope and it came to top dead center the next time, is when both had play and that's where I adjusted them.
I do have electric start and it is a dual fuel generator. I did surface research before I bought it and saw that it was assembled in the USA. I didn't do my due diligence and check to see where the engine was manufactured. I do have a friend with an older generator I'm not sure the engine type but it's only gasoline. I know it needs a new carburetor as I've looked at it before. I might pick it up anyway for a hundred bucks it's not bad.

 

[Daniel 3721]

It started and ran fine. I may have gotten a wire crossed because it wouldn't shut off when I turned the key to the off position. So I had to shut it off with the choke. Later, when I went to charge things up, it wouldn't start. I had the same issue I did in the beginning; I couldn't pull past top dead center and the rope snapped back! (Wouldn't start electrically)

I haven't looked at it yet, as I am fully frustrated with the situation.
Any suggestions?
Thanks