Hard snap back portable generator

[shadetree#1]

Is this a type?
You typed "When you went to CHARGE things up it would not start"

??????????? What did you charge? Battery or ????

Next: If you are not seeing a slight dip on a rocker arm as the piston is almost at TDC as it's COMING UP ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE with the valves set at minimum specs (properly adjusted at 1/4 inch past TDC)
the ACR on the camshaft is not operating properly.

You say that you do not ever see a slight dip. You need to double check a look for this. Watch very closely at the rocker arms and if you do not see the slight dip on a rocker slightly opening a valve you are not going to get a Automatic Compression Release. Take the spark plug out and turn the engine slowly manually and you can also insert a dowel rod into the spark plug hole so you can tell when the piston is coming up ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE.
Make sure you are on the compression stroke when watching for a rocker arm to take a slight dip. The rocker arm should just briefly dip (this slightly opens a valve to reduce compression) just before TDC then come back up right at TDC and this dip and back up will take place within just a few degrees of flywheel rotation just BEFORE TDC. Watch both rocker arms. I think maybe that China engine ACR is on the exhaust rocker valve but I'm not sure.


The ACR is operated (disabled like you are seeing erratically now) by centrifugal force when the engine starts running and when the engine stops running, a little spring on the ACR mechanical mechanism on the camshaft resets the ACR for the next start. (to reduce start compression)
Summary: centrifugal force disables the ACR for engine run.
Spring return ACR when engine rpm's get below 500 or the engine stopped.


You can review this on-line.

 

[ChrisBFRPKY]

Remove the spark plug and pull the engine over to verify you don't have carb problems and a cylinder full of fuel. If everything is ok, remove the valve cover and turn the engine over slowly by hand to open one valve as far as it will open, stop there, now adjust the closed valve to .003 inch. Repeat the same procedure to adjust the other valve and set it at .003. I don't care what the valve specs say, adjust both valves to .003 clearance. When one valve is completely open, adjust the other valve that is closed to .003. Rotate the engine a few times then recheck the valve lash settings. If it's off, do it again. You cannot go wrong using this method. The lobe will be nowhere near the compression release. Make sure you tighten the lock nut down properly or you'll just be wasting your time as you'll have to readjust the lash after a few minutes run time. The locking nut is your friend.

Also, do some other minor checks before you call it a day. Verify you don't have something silly causing the kickback. Check the flywheel key to make sure it's not sheared or even partially sheared. Make sure your coil air gap is spaced properly from the flywheel, things like that. Verify your carburetor is not leaking fuel into the cylinder. You know 99% of the time when you have an issue it ends up being something small that was overlooked.

You have a Chinese made engine. The compression release mechanisms are terrible on the cams. If valve adjustment is too wide, it won't work at all. Set the valves at .003 if you want the problem solved. Good luck!

 

[Daniel 3721]

Is this a type?
You typed "When you went to CHARGE things up it would not start"

??????????? What did you charge? Battery or ????

Next: If you are not seeing a slight dip on a rocker arm as the piston is almost at TDC as it's COMING UP ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE with the valves set at minimum specs (properly adjusted at 1/4 inch past TDC)
the ACR on the camshaft is not operating properly.

You say that you do not ever see a slight dip. You need to double check a look for this. Watch very closely at the rocker arms and if you do not see the slight dip on a rocker slightly opening a valve you are not going to get a Automatic Compression Release. Take the spark plug out and turn the engine slowly manually and you can also insert a dowel rod into the spark plug hole so you can tell when the piston is coming up ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE.
Make sure you are on the compression stroke when watching for a rocker arm to take a slight dip. The rocker arm should just briefly dip (this slightly opens a valve to reduce compression) just before TDC then come back up right at TDC and this dip and back up will take place within just a few degrees of flywheel rotation just BEFORE TDC. Watch both rocker arms. I think maybe that China engine ACR is on the exhaust rocker valve but I'm not sure.


The ACR is operated (disabled like you are seeing erratically now) by centrifugal force when the engine starts running and when the engine stops running, a little spring on the ACR mechanical mechanism on the camshaft resets the ACR for the next start. (to reduce start compression)
Summary: centrifugal force disables the ACR for engine run.
Spring return ACR when engine rpm's get below 500 or the engine stopped.


You can review this on-line.

By charging things up, I meant flashlights, battery banks, cell phone etc.
I studied up on the ACR, and when I had the engine apart, it was free moving (the spring was pushing back) and everything seemed intact and working.
I will pull the valve cover and check again for the rocker dip,

 

[Daniel 3721]

By charging things up, I meant flashlights, battery banks, cell phone etc.
I studied up on the ACR, and when I had the engine apart, it was free moving (the spring was pushing back) and everything seemed intact and working.
I will pull the valve cover and check again for the rocker dip.

By charging things up, I meant flashlights, battery banks, cell phone etc.
I studied up on the ACR, and when I had the engine apart, it was free moving (the spring was pushing back) and everything seemed intact and working.
I will pull the valve cover and check again for the rocker dip.

If it is the ACR why did it start and run fine? But when I went to charge things up it reverted back to the same issue?

I did like you suggested and checked for internal leakage of fuel. There was none. No gas in the oil and the level was fine.
It's been snowing again, so it'll probably

Remove the spark plug and pull the engine over to verify you don't have carb problems and a cylinder full of fuel. If everything is ok, remove the valve cover and turn the engine over slowly by hand to open one valve as far as it will open, stop there, now adjust the closed valve to .003 inch. Repeat the same procedure to adjust the other valve and set it at .003. I don't care what the valve specs say, adjust both valves to .003 clearance. When one valve is completely open, adjust the other valve that is closed to .003. Rotate the engine a few times then recheck the valve lash settings. If it's off, do it again. You cannot go wrong using this method. The lobe will be nowhere near the compression release. Make sure you tighten the lock nut down properly or you'll just be wasting your time as you'll have to readjust the lash after a few minutes run time. The locking nut is your friend.

Also, do some other minor checks before you call it a day. Verify you don't have something silly causing the kickback. Check the flywheel key to make sure it's not sheared or even partially sheared. Make sure your coil air gap is spaced properly from the flywheel, things like that. Verify your carburetor is not leaking fuel into the cylinder. You know 99% of the time when you have an issue it ends up being something small that was overlooked.

You have a Chinese made engine. The compression release mechanisms are terrible on the cams. If valve adjustment is too wide, it won't work at all. Set the valves at .003 if you want the problem solved. Good luck!

Is setting the lashes as you suggested a way of "bypassing" the ACR?

 

[Daniel 3721]

I set both valve lashes to 0.003.
It starts and stays running. It doesn't seem to have much power though and only puts out around 90 volts

 

[Forest#2]

Couple questions:
Since you have never seen this gen run and it's new to you I have some questions and things to think about.
Since your gen now starts and runs we need to look at the fuel delivery system and the rpm's/Hertz of the unit. You can review meaning of Hertz of a generator on-line.


Do you have a Hertz (meter or any meter that will read the Hertz (frequency of the generator voltage)????? The meter needs to read at least 55 to 70 hertz.

You say it's dual fuel. What is the fuels it will runs on and what fuel are you now running it on??????

How does the engine act if you pull the governor arm back to slow engine rpms? (does the engine idle good or is it rough at idle or no idle???????

 

[Daniel 3721]

Couple questions:
Since you have never seen this gen run and it's new to you I have some questions and things to think about.
Since your gen now starts and runs we need to look at the fuel delivery system and the rpm's/Hertz of the unit. You can review meaning of Hertz of a generator on-line.


Do you have a Hertz (meter or any meter that will read the Hertz (frequency of the generator voltage)????? The meter needs to read at least 55 to 70 hertz.

You say it's dual fuel. What is the fuels it will runs on and what fuel are you now running it on??????

How does the engine act if you pull the governor arm back to slow engine rpms? (does the engine idle good or is it rough at idle or no idle???????

I don't have a hertz meter.
It runs on propane and gasoline. I only use gasoline.
It's a rough idle that will stall. If a heavy load is applied, like a welding machine, I have to crank up the idle rpm's to keep it from stalling out.

 

[ChrisBFRPKY]

I set both valve lashes to 0.003.
It starts and stays running. It doesn't seem to have much power though and only puts out around 90 volts

If your output is only 90 volts you'll need to check the engine's running RPM, it's likely set too low. Around 3,600 RPM for most generators is normally where you want to be, you should have around 120 volts at 60 HZ. If you're running at 3600 RPM and those output numbers don't match up, you may have other issues. If you've set the valve lash at .003, you're good to go there. If you're having other running issues it's probably time to look into the carburetor or adjustment. If you're not comfortable with getting it fine tuned yourself, almost any local shop can do this for you, for a fee. If you're mechanically inclined and it seems to be an issue with the carburetor, just replace it with a new aftermarket carb. They're only $10-$12 if you shop around. Costs less than a kit in most cases.

 

[Forest#2]

Couple hints to consider:

When looking at the $10-$20 replacement carbs you will notice that usually the Gen's carb choke linkage area is slightly different than just a standard carb, so be aware of such.
Gen's carb sometimes have a long plastic lever that allows the engine choke lever to be accessible above the air filter housing. Do not assume you can remove the choke lever from your carb for use on a replacement carb. some gen replacement carbs will come with an assortment of choke levers due to such.
You will need something like this one on fleece bay USUALLY.
153657818538
You can also get a Hertz meter for less than $20. You need to set the Hz at about about 63 cycle to get 120v. You set the Hz (or rpms of the engine) by adjusting the tension on the governor spring which usually has a screw or bolt linkage connected to the governor spring connected to the governor arm. More tension on the spring = more rpms.

Using a welder or a electric motor is not a good thing for testing the load handling capability of a small emergency gen. Use a resistance load, like for example an electric heater so as the continuous load is not varying up and down. 500watt quartz lights, electric toaster. No large electric motor devices.
If 220v load try about 2000 watt load at first and check the voltage and Hz as the load is removed and applied.
If using 120v load use about a 10 amp load at first or 1200 watts.
You have to keep a heads up when loading up the split wired 120v loads.
Some gens are split wired duplex receptacle for the 120volt load receptacle at 1/2 the gen watts rating or 2750 watts max (intermittent) per single receptacle or 15-20 amps max. (is why you should test the 120v at only 10 amps.
If the gen has resettable breakers just test the gen voltage/hertz at approx 1/2 the amperage of the breakers.

 

[Daniel 3721]

I'll check into the hertz meter.
Right now I have to turn the idle way up to prevent the gen from dieing when I run a heavy load, i.e. welder. This wasn't necessary before.
Thanks for the advice!