Hard snap back portable generator

[Daniel 3721]

All right, thank you for the information. I couldn't find anything on this engine. And duromax claims to be made in America, what a laugh.
So, what I gather you're saying is, find a torque chart and then match the bolt or screw size that I am torquing to the corresponding bolt/ specs on the chart.
Thank you for the tip much appreciated

 

[Daniel 3721]

The new gasket kit arrived yesterday, but it was late. it's been too cold to go out this morning. I appreciate all the advice and tips from everyone. Your input has really helped.
I'm open to any advice before installing the gasket kit, thanks again

 

[shadetree#1]

Some of them China engines are a Honda clone like for example the ones labeled Predator by H Freight. If you get hung try looking at the Honda Service data.

 

[Daniel 3721]

Some of them China engines are a Honda clone like for example the ones labeled Predator by H Freight. If you get hung try looking at the Honda Service data.

Good to know, thanks

 

[Daniel 3721]

Hey everyone, I am still not able to start my generator, by hand or electric start.
I put new gaskets in, adjusted the valves, re-gapped the spark plug, cleaned the carburetor jets and put a new shaft key in.
The problem still remains. It's extremely hard to turn over, unless I remove the spark plug.
When I do get a good pull, it sputters like it's not getting fuel. If I adjust the choke while it's sputtering, it dies. If I do nothing, it dies after 2-3 seconds.
Any ideas? Thanks.

 

[bogdaN]

Scrubcadet said automatic compression relief/release is bad.

 

[shadetree#1]

Appears you have lost some ground. (it would at least run before you did the new gaskets, but was hard to rope pull)

I noticed you said it was one cog off in a previous post but would run ok, just hard to rope pull.

Usually a engine will not start or run one cog off if you are talking about the cam/crankshaft alignment marks.
Did you change the one cog off alignment?

Next I would think about getting the engine to where it will electric crank.
You say you do not have a key for the switch. Most generally on a gen You can hot wire for a test run or install another switch or even try a lawn tractor key.
The reason I say to get an electric crank is I've seen engines that would electric crank start good but hard to rope pull. (and takes a 12v battery usually rated to at least 275CCA during cold weather. A larger automotive 12v battery is even better.

Next: What specs are you using to adjust the valves?

 

[Daniel 3721]

I'll check the auto rel

Scrubcadet said automatic compression relief/release is bad.

I'll check that today. I totally forgot about that, thanks !

 

[Daniel 3721]

I was wrong about it being 1 cog off. I have issues bending forward, so I wasn't eye level.
I've got the OEM battery charged now and will try that.
First, I finally got the valve clearance from Duromax.
.006 intake
.008 exhaust
Since I didn't have the exact specs before, I took the average of a few Honda clones online. I'll be dialing those in today.

 

[Daniel 3721]

Appears you have lost some ground. (it would at least run before you did the new gaskets, but was hard to rope pull)

I noticed you said it was one cog off in a previous post but would run ok, just hard to rope pull.

Usually a engine will not start or run one cog off if you are talking about the cam/crankshaft alignment marks.
Did you change the one cog off alignment?

Next I would think about getting the engine to where it will electric crank.
You say you do not have a key for the switch. Most generally on a gen You can hot wire for a test run or install another switch or even try a lawn tractor key.
The reason I say to get an electric crank is I've seen engines that would electric crank start good but hard to rope pull. (and takes a 12v battery usually rated to at least 275CCA during cold weather. A larger automotive 12v battery is even better.

Next: What specs are you using to adjust the valves?

And I made a key for the ignition. It's not pretty, but it works!