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mechanic mark

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Most folks don't realize that crimp connectors using copper wire need to be what is called gas tight. If not then the moisture always present in the atmosphere will react with the copper and dissimilar metal of the crimp connector and will sooner or later fail. A good example are the clamp on the wire battery terminals. I repair lots of trailer wiring. Most new trailers have crap splices and ground connections. Guy brought me a truck where the dealer installed hitch and wiring. Less than 2 years and the scotchlock style connectors and black tape failed. Imagine that. Then you have the wire nut and black tape crowd.
Using silicone dielectric is a must on all electrical connections including batteries, helps to keep moisture out.
 

PTmowerMech

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Funny thing, I spent a few years repairing those old brass & copper radiators. I've run many header plates. And was pretty good at it, thanks to the man who taught me. That was using his method with a torch, liquid flux and metal solder.

Radiators are different than wires.
 

StarTech

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Funny thing, I spent a few years repairing those old brass & copper radiators. I've run many header plates. And was pretty good at it, thanks to the man who taught me. That was using his method with a torch, liquid flux and metal solder.

Radiators are different than wires.
Yes they are. The ones that looks like copper is actually red brass and requires acid flux for wetting the surface. "Red brass" is 85% copper, 5% tin, 5% lead, and 5% zinc.

What I use here is Kester 44 solder with a 60W pen or if I need more heat I used the 100w/250w soldering gun. Or at least that I normally use for copper wiring here.
 

Hammermechanicman

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1608827818094.jpg
I have had this gun for probably 40 years. I have half dozen other pen irons. This is the one i use in the shop.⅞
 

HughDaHand

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The wire he had going to the solenoid was a white one. But originally, it looked like it just dead ended into the main engine harness. But he'd spliced into that one, and connected it to the solenoid.

Either way, it's a pure headache. I had to fix about 5 other wires that he'd cut and reconnected. His connections were crap.

He probably swapped the engine. The original engine most likely has a starter mounted solenoid and was replaces with a engine that used a external solenoid. I would expect this mower to have a CV-(displacement) model command not a CV-(Horsepower) model.
 

bertsmobile1

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I can never get the solder to stick to the wire.
You are not getting the wire clean enough or you are contaminating with oil from your fingers .
Try manually cleaning the wires, applying a LITTLE dab of paste flux before heating the wire,

On band new bare lean wire, try wearing rubber gloves to prevent contamination of the wire.,

Soldering is like welding.
Very few take the time to learn how to do it properly and do it so infrequently that they never get proper understanding nor technique
 
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