Gt 5000 with no labels

PTO switch. When the key is in the start position, I have 12v going into it, but nothing coming out. Could this just be a faulty switch or something not grounded?

Starter solenoid tested good.
 
Not sure what I did, other than finding the right white wire going to the Solenoid and cleaning the PTO switch, but it cranked and ran, with the kill wires connected. So, I'm gonna put the wires back in the conduit, put the battery back on and reconnect everything.

Wish me luck. LOL
 
The wire he had going to the solenoid was a white one. But originally, it looked like it just dead ended into the main engine harness. But he'd spliced into that one, and connected it to the solenoid.

Either way, it's a pure headache. I had to fix about 5 other wires that he'd cut and reconnected. His connections were crap.
 
"Wilbur" hard at work. Some folks don't have a clue how long it can take to un-F-up wiring on a mower you can't find a schematic for and they think black electrical tape is waterproof. I like the guy who is given an old mower with totally wilbur'd wiring and asks how much to fix it and gets miffed when you say you don't know and thinks you are ripping him off when you tell him to start at $200. Then he confesses that 4 other shops said they wouldn't touch it. I told him a free mower is usually like a free puppy and there is a reason they gave it away.
 
Scrubcadet10 said:
what's your preferred splice method?
Click to expand...

I don't know about Hammer's. But I like to take the metal connections out of the inside of the plastic covers they come in, crimp them to the wires. Then use the shrink tubes. I use enough to have at least 1" to 1.5" on both sides of the connection. It's sort of pain in the rear getting the connections out of that hard plastic. But I can see see exactly where and how it's crimped. Plus I can tell better how much wire I have inside the crimp.

What's yours?
 
PTmowerMech said:
I don't know about Hammer's. But I like to take the metal connections out of the inside of the plastic covers they come in, crimp them to the wires. Then use the shrink tubes. I use enough to have at least 1" to 1.5" on both sides of the connection. It's sort of pain in the rear getting the connections out of that hard plastic. But I can see see exactly where and how it's crimped. Plus I can tell better how much wire I have inside the crimp.

What's yours?
Click to expand...
I usually twist the wires together,solder them and then heatshrink tube.
Sometimes if i can't solder them, i will coat the wire in liquid electrical tape, then heatshrink tube.
 
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