Ferris H2222K Hydro trans.

[reynoldston]

As I said I never got into one or seen one apart even when I worked for a Ferris dealer for several month. If I had one to repair in my shop the very first thing I would do is invest in a repair manual and parts manual at any cost. Berts can be a very fine talker with some very good story's??? I hope he can help you for your sake.
(I have not pulled down the particular pump you are looking at but once apart it will be obvious.) That is in berts own words. I did have one of the drive motor that leaked oil come into my shop several years ago in which I took the motor to a hydraulic shop and had repaired. The newer Pro 60's have gone to a whole different hydraulic system.

 

[Rob47]

Bert, Here is another photo with my attempt to identify the various parts. This is the deepest I have gone in the unit and I do not see anything so far that would cause a loss of power or whining in forward. From here I assume the oil is under pressure and goes into the wheel drive area marked with the stars in my earlier photos. I would already be in them but the pillow block axle bearing on one side will not budge even after liberal application of a special lubricant. I look forward from hearing from you and others. Rob

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When removed you will see holes underneath where the oil flows.
I have not pulled down the particular pump you are looking at but once apart it will be obvious.
Your pump should only flow in one direction as the motors have to be able to move in opposite directions so the direction of rotation control will be on the motors.
The finish on the underside is a lot finer than 600 grit and is genrally polished with diamond paste to a mirror finish.
2000 grit would be the coarest you could use as the pump only moves a tiny amount of oil at quite high pressure.
Again it will be obvious when you are looking at the guts, not the hat

 

[Rob47]

Thank you again for coming back to the conversation. No Where have I seen a blow-up showing the internals of the hydro unit nor a shop manual on this hydro-drive. I would surely like to have one as this is a somewhat blind adventure on my part. [fools rush in where angels fear to tread] I have posted more photos if you are interested. I paid $350 for this machine knowing it would need an engine before long. It did, and rather than take it apart and tie up the machine for a long time, I chose to buy a good used motor and transferred the carb, governor mechanism, and exhaust muffler. I believe there is a spark retard circuit that is not hooked up right because the newer engine had a different wiring harness than the older Kohler 22HP. Good to hear the newer machines have a different hydro unit.

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As I said I never got into one or seen one apart even when I worked for a Ferris dealer for several month. If I had one to repair in my shop the very first thing I would do is invest in a repair manual and parts manual at any cost. Berts can be a very fine talker with some very good story's??? I hope he can help you for your sake.
(I have not pulled down the particular pump you are looking at but once apart it will be obvious.) That is in berts own words. I did have one of the drive motor that leaked oil come into my shop several years ago in which I took the motor to a hydraulic shop and had repaired. The newer Pro 60's have gone to a whole different hydraulic system.

 

[reynoldston]

Thank you again for coming back to the conversation. No Where have I seen a blow-up showing the internals of the hydro unit nor a shop manual on this hydro-drive. I would surely like to have one as this is a somewhat blind adventure on my part. [fools rush in where angels fear to tread] I have posted more photos if you are interested. I paid $350 for this machine knowing it would need an engine before long. It did, and rather than take it apart and tie up the machine for a long time, I chose to buy a good used motor and transferred the carb, governor mechanism, and exhaust muffler. I believe there is a spark retard circuit that is not hooked up right because the newer engine had a different wiring harness than the older Kohler 22HP. Good to hear the newer machines have a different hydro unit.

I am sure Ferris didn't make the hydro system. Maybe find out who made it and get information from them? The Kohler came with what they called Smart-Spark ignition system is what I think you are calling spark retard circuit. This Smart-Spark system was built internally in the engine itself and would nothing to do with the external wiring to the chassis. The only wiring that may be different would be to the charging and starter systems. The only wire to the ignition system is the wire to ground out the coils in which go's to the ignition switch.. The Kohler electrical systems I have worked on in my shop and in more then in just the brand of Ferris mowers.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Looking at your photos you will see wear grooves between the intake & discharge ports.
This plate has to seal against the rotor, however there is no seal there.
Thus it requires that the plate and the rotor are mirror finish smooth & flat.
If that is not the case the pump can not pump.
Yours looks rather like an Eaton 751.
Ferris do not make pumps , gearboxes or transaxles they are all bought in.

Eaton have all their manuals as an free download on line otherwise I can send you the 751 I got a while back to do a job.

 

[reynoldston]

Looking at your photos you will see wear grooves between the intake & discharge ports.
This plate has to seal against the rotor, however there is no seal there.
Thus it requires that the plate and the rotor are mirror finish smooth & flat.
If that is not the case the pump can not pump.
Yours looks rather like an Eaton 751.
Ferris do not make pumps , gearboxes or transaxles they are all bought in.

Eaton have all their manuals as an free download on line otherwise I can send you the 751 I got a while back to do a job.[/QUOTE

This gives you a good start. :thumbsup:

 

[Rob47]

Re: Ferris H2222K Hydro trans. EATON

Ahh, at last a diagram of what I am working on !
http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@hyd/documents/content/pll_1620.pdf

Thank you both for staying with me on this. As I look at this diagram could the friction material on the reaction plate be worn to where the hill climbing ability has been lost ? Is the whining coming from the GeRotor pump area or someplace else?
The next step is to get in touch with Eaton to see if I can still obtain parts before I take apart the axle drive assembly.

I just found this from Eaton - parts schematic of the 751 >> http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@hyd/documents/content/pll_1621.pdf

 

[Rob47]

Bert, If the casting is scored as you say from looking in the photos, does this mean I am wasting my time trying to fix this hydro unit ?
If,, I could buy new GeRotor parts and housing, that still lives the aluminum casting scored, so this is a concern.

Looking at your photos you will see wear grooves between the intake & discharge ports.
This plate has to seal against the rotor, however there is no seal there.
Thus it requires that the plate and the rotor are mirror finish smooth & flat.
If that is not the case the pump can not pump.

 

[Rob47]

Is it possible the drive belt tension was loose ?

The transmission on mine has always made noise from day one, but it never slips. With nothing to compare it with, I always took this noise as normal seeing I bough it new.

 

[reynoldston]

Yes for sure the drive belt can slip. Good thing to check. Yes mine has always made a lot of noise from day one to the point I always wear ear muffs when using it. You sure got that mower at a good price seeing I paid over 8000 dollars when I bought mine new in year 2000. A couple of years back I was at a show and I priced a new Pro 60 and it was over 10,000 dollars.