Ferris H2222K Hydro trans.

[bertsmobile1]

You are already beyond my level of experience so I would just be guessing.
Eaton engrave serial numbers on their trans and usually rivet a plate as well.
Even though it is a cheap mower unit Eaton were very good to me.
Sending an IPL + a service manual which looks the same as what you have posted

measure and photograph it clearly ( use a stand of some sort) & drop them a line.
I am not sure how much scoring is permissible in these units.
Generally with others I have worked on, If you can feel the scoring with your thumb nail, it was considered US.
However none of them had a charge pump and I have no idea if the bleed by would be significant or not.

 

[Rob47]

This Eaton 751 had stamped numbers in the bottom of it; 851-113 CW 112796 the last number being the date code Nov. 27,1996
Having exhausted the internet searching, it seems I will put this back together, installing 20-50 motor oil and use it the way it is >> noise and weak on the hills.
I was thinking of using an oil additive like Lucas Oil treatment as a viscosity improvement. Any thoughts for or against ?

I have posted on the Ferris forum another thread for parts for this Eaton unit. If nothing comes from it I will put the unit back in the mower. The small contract work I have for it will not really start again until March so I have some time yet. However, I like to finish this up and get it off the bench.

I did contact Eaton - they don't carry any parts - they dropped them in 2011.
I appreciate your input - both of you. Rob

 

[bertsmobile1]

Don't use Lucas.
You can go to heavier oil 30w 50/ 30W 60 etc.
Using a heavier base oil is a lot better than trying to thicken up a light base oil.
If it looks like the friction plates are excessively worn, most clutch & brake relining factories should be able to replace the friction material.
If those wear groves are bleeding off pressure you can get them refaced but it won't be cheap.

 

[Rob47]

Don't use Lucas.
You can go to heavier oil 30w 50/ 30W 60 etc.
Using a heavier base oil is a lot better than trying to thicken up a light base oil.
If it looks like the friction plates are excessively worn, most clutch & brake relining factories should be able to replace the friction material.
If those wear groves are bleeding off pressure you can get them refaced but it won't be cheap.

After taking the unit apart and looking for obvious worn parts in addition to not getting any material leads on the GeRotor pump nor the two clutch discs, I am going to put it back together and live with the noise and hill climbing weakness. Inside the axle hubs, where the the reactor plate is located, I don't see enough wear on that plate to condemn its functionality. There is a little bit of scoring in the casting under the GeRotor pump assembly but that cannot be remedied without a new hydro-static transmission. Eaton closed the parts supply chain for the 751 series in 2011.
I am replacing one of the outboard bearings and seal on the right side (short) axle shaft. With that, and new 20-50wt. oil, I will conclude this endeavor of fixing the Hydro unit.
Thanks for the advice. Rob

I just discovered something that I believe is significant in this trans-axle. The ball pump rotor does not have springs behind the 5 balls.
Photos included >>

 

[Rob47]

Re: Ferris H2222K Hydro trans. Test run on Bench

In case anyone is still watching this thread, and that "anyone" has tried to bench test the unit before putting it back into the mower, I would like to hear from them.
I have filled the trans with 20-50 oil and purged the air out of it as best I can.
Using an electric drill with an allen wrench in the chuck, I am spinning the pump drive at speed and was hoping to see the axles begin to turn. So far, no movement from the axles while shifting the control lever from forward to reverse. It could be that I am NOT spinning it fast enough.
I am open for suggestions. It is true I am not spinning it as fast and furious as the engine would.
Rob

 

[BlazNT]

Speed at witch you turn it has nothing to do with movement except for speed that it turns the axle. When I changed the fluid in my drives I could turn input shaft by hand and have movement in output shaft. So something is not right.

 

[Rob47]

Re: Ferris H2222K Hydro trans. Test run on Bench

Blaz,
Thank you for your input on this matter. When you did this fluid change was the unit still in the mower or on the bench? Was it the Eaton 751 series ?
This unit was completely void of oil when I put it back together, so it makes me wonder if there is still trapped air in the system and my bench testing is not verifiable due to inadequate purge. I took special care in putting it back together and can [visually] recount each of the assembly steps in doing so. I can "feel" the loading of the pump when I spin it with the drill motor so I know there is something going on inside with the GeRotor pump assembly. I have not seen a cut-a-way drawing of the Eaton casting to see where the passages go, but do not believe anything in that realm has been affected by me taking the unit apart.
The Pump Rotor Ball (#11 in schematic) dos not have springs behind the balls like the other two located in the axles. One schematic showed it did but this is the PDF that comes from Eaton printed in 1999. As I look at the these parts I have no idea why the Cam Ring (#12) causes the unit to reverse and also control the speed. I have not removed Motor Rotor/ball #28 on either side but see there is a friction pad #29 located behind it. Because is says "friction" it makes me wonder if there is wear in that part.

I appreciate any and all information I can attain from those who will contribute to this. Rob

 

[thespyderbyte]

After taking the unit apart and looking for obvious worn parts in addition to not getting any material leads on the GeRotor pump nor the two clutch discs, I am going to put it back together and live with the noise and hill climbing weakness. Inside the axle hubs, where the the reactor plate is located, I don't see enough wear on that plate to condemn its functionality. There is a little bit of scoring in the casting under the GeRotor pump assembly but that cannot be remedied without a new hydro-static transmission. Eaton closed the parts supply chain for the 751 series in 2011.
I am replacing one of the outboard bearings and seal on the right side (short) axle shaft. With that, and new 20-50wt. oil, I will conclude this endeavor of fixing the Hydro unit.
Thanks for the advice. Rob

I just discovered something that I believe is significant in this trans-axle. The ball pump rotor does not have springs behind the 5 balls.
Photos included >>

I have the same mower, #6976, and have a leak from the hydro transmission under the unit. After looking under would say it's the hose line, all wet, use a drip pan when not running. Mower runs great as old as it is and would rather use it then the eXmark I have. The hydro oil rang a bell due to I have used just about anything from tractor supply to fill it. Also did use Lucas in it but seems it didn't do any damage but will switch to the 20w-50 hydro oil. Will look at the 30w-50 and 30w-60 too. Interested in knowing what kind of hydro filter you intend to use when running. Love the work you have put online, hope mine doesn't end up here. Engine runs too good to give it up yet!

 

[Rob47]

Yours looks rather like an Eaton 751.
Ferris do not make pumps , gearboxes or trans-axles they are all bought in.
Eaton have all their manuals as an free download on line otherwise I can send you the 751 I got a while back to do a job.
This gives you a good start. :thumbsup:

Yes, mine is a 751. Since I last posted here I did contact Eaton and found out they no longer service any parts for the 751. I did tighten the drive belt to the hydro and the hill climbing has improved at least at the place I am currently using the mower. Not sure if it will climb my own back yard hill yet. This winter when I do some maintenance on it I will see how it does. I recently bought the internal gears and clutching mechanism for the linear actuator (ball screw) that raises the deck. While I was away this summer I had a friend fill in for me and unwittingly let the actuator run too long and burned up the clutch mechanism. If others need to find that supplier; https://www.thomsonlinear.com/website/com/eng/support/global_customer_service_distributor.php

Additionally, if there are any readers who land here and know of a person who has NOS parts for the Eaton 751 I would like to get in touch with them.
Rob

 

[Rob47]

Be careful as each piston has a spring behind it and some are quite strong so will go flying across the shop & down the hole that leads to the parallel universe where all the unavailable bits seem to go.
When removed you will see holes underneath where the oil flows.

I have come back to the forum and re-read most of the dialogue about the hydro unit I had apart. You mention a spring behind each ball, the schematic of the Eaton 751 also shows that spring but mine did not have it. It makes me wonder how important the spring is to the proper function of the pump. For all I know someone had this unit apart years before I got it and left them out for whatever reason. Since the pump unit is spinning around, would not centrifugal force throw the balls out against the ring plate anyway?
Can you comment about this ?
Rob