Engine Wire Help

[bertsmobile1]

by and large the only thing that the switch itself will cause the fuse to blow is if it connects the B (battery ) terminal directly to the G (ground) terminal.
After that it has to be a wire that is connected wrong.
So the next trick is to unplug everything one at a time till the fuse stops blowing starting with that alternator stator plug which I rather think is your problem as both the AC & DC
wires appear to be connected to some thing and you can not do that .
It could even be a bad relay
I use circuit breakers when on site because blowing 25 fuses becomes very expensive very quickly and of course the next job will need one of the fuses I have just blown.
IN the workshop I use a test light which is an old headlight with a blown element .

The Honda , Kawakasi and Briggs engines all had substantially different looms
The Honda has an oil & Battery light
The Kawasaki has an oil warning light
The B & S has neither
Each of those looms are different
And this assumes the loom that is there is the one that should be there and the Honda was in fact the original engine .
Get the B & S repower guide and read it a couple of times so you can understand what should be happening
When you fully understand how it is supposed to work, and in particular what connections the key switch should be making then you might have a chance to get it on the grass befoe the lions hiding in the log grass start terrorising your dog.

 

[Demons15]

by and large the only thing that the switch itself will cause the fuse to blow is if it connects the B (battery ) terminal directly to the G (ground) terminal.
After that it has to be a wire that is connected wrong.
So the next trick is to unplug everything one at a time till the fuse stops blowing starting with that alternator stator plug which I rather think is your problem as both the AC & DC
wires appear to be connected to some thing and you can not do that .
It could even be a bad relay
I use circuit breakers when on site because blowing 25 fuses becomes very expensive very quickly and of course the next job will need one of the fuses I have just blown.
IN the workshop I use a test light which is an old headlight with a blown element .

The Honda , Kawakasi and Briggs engines all had substantially different looms
The Honda has an oil & Battery light
The Kawasaki has an oil warning light
The B & S has neither
Each of those looms are different
And this assumes the loom that is there is the one that should be there and the Honda was in fact the original engine .
Get the B & S repower guide and read it a couple of times so you can understand what should be happening
When you fully understand how it is supposed to work, and in particular what connections the key switch should be making then you might have a chance to get it on the grass befoe the lions hiding in the log grass start terrorising your dog.

Wanted to provide you a little update. We have re wired the whole system and matched wires. This lead us to find the problem of when the keys is turned all the way to start, it blows the fuse. Now to find the solution.

attached is a picture that shows two wires connected together. They were hooked up to the negative terminal on the battery.

When they are not attached, the relay connected to the switch just buzzes when trying to start.
If I connect the wires to the negative terminal, fuse pops.

I got in contact with the previous owner who said he replaced the switch with one he had laying around. Would this be the switch or the two wires don’t go to the negative terminal.

 

[STEVES]

Best to put correct switch in, rather than guess if switch lying around is bad or switching power to ground.

 

[Cajun power]

by and large the only thing that the switch itself will cause the fuse to blow is if it connects the B (battery ) terminal directly to the G (ground) terminal.
After that it has to be a wire that is connected wrong.
So the next trick is to unplug everything one at a time till the fuse stops blowing starting with that alternator stator plug which I rather think is your problem as both the AC & DC
wires appear to be connected to some thing and you can not do that .
It could even be a bad relay
I use circuit breakers when on site because blowing 25 fuses becomes very expensive very quickly and of course the next job will need one of the fuses I have just blown.
IN the workshop I use a test light which is an old headlight with a blown element .

The Honda , Kawakasi and Briggs engines all had substantially different looms
The Honda has an oil & Battery light
The Kawasaki has an oil warning light
The B & S has neither
Each of those looms are different
And this assumes the loom that is there is the one that should be there and the Honda was in fact the original engine .
Get the B & S repower guide and read it a couple of times so you can understand what should be happening
When you fully understand how it is supposed to work, and in particular what connections the key switch should be making then you might have a chance to get it on the grass befoe the lions hiding in the log grass start terrorising your dog.

when I lurk, it's usually to follow your expert knowledge and guidance. Well done!

 

[Demons15]

by and large the only thing that the switch itself will cause the fuse to blow is if it connects the B (battery ) terminal directly to the G (ground) terminal.
After that it has to be a wire that is connected wrong.
So the next trick is to unplug everything one at a time till the fuse stops blowing starting with that alternator stator plug which I rather think is your problem as both the AC & DC
wires appear to be connected to some thing and you can not do that .
It could even be a bad relay
I use circuit breakers when on site because blowing 25 fuses becomes very expensive very quickly and of course the next job will need one of the fuses I have just blown.
IN the workshop I use a test light which is an old headlight with a blown element .

The Honda , Kawakasi and Briggs engines all had substantially different looms
The Honda has an oil & Battery light
The Kawasaki has an oil warning light
The B & S has neither
Each of those looms are different
And this assumes the loom that is there is the one that should be there and the Honda was in fact the original engine .
Get the B & S repower guide and read it a couple of times so you can understand what should be happening
When you fully understand how it is supposed to work, and in particular what connections the key switch should be making then you might have a chance to get it on the grass befoe the lions hiding in the log grass start terrorising your dog.

Put the new switch and bam, the baby cranks up and runs. Now we are on the finding a solution to the next problem…

when I engage the PTO, it barely turns. So trying to figure out if it’s the PTO switch, bad wiring or the clutch is bad.

also, the Honda motor had two grey wires coming out of the alternator. Would I just wire the grey wires from the rectifier to the yellow wires from the new alternator?

 

[bertsmobile1]

So you bought a new 10A stators wth 2 yellow wires going into a white plug did you ?
If that is the case then yes you car wire it to the honda rectifier yellow to grey and red to red please put a plug in there just in case it is wrong & needs to be disconnected quickly
The Honda rectifier grounds through the mounting bolt so make sure yours is grounded where ever you put it
On that engine is would go to the dip stick It needs to be mounted some where that gets a breeze off the fan to dissipate the heat .

 

[Demons15]

So you bought a new 10A stators wth 2 yellow wires going into a white plug did you ?
If that is the case then yes you car wire it to the honda rectifier yellow to grey and red to red please put a plug in there just in case it is wrong & needs to be disconnected quickly
The Honda rectifier grounds through the mounting bolt so make sure yours is grounded where ever you put it
On that engine is would go to the dip stick It needs to be mounted some where that gets a breeze off the fan to dissipate the heat .

Attached our the photos of the alternator I bought. It’s a 20am alternator as I was thinking the magnets would be for the smaller fly wheel.

The two grey wires come straight from the rectifier. Would those two grey wires hook straight to the two yellow wires from the alternator? I don’t see a red wire unless I buy a voltage regulator, do I even need one?

would this be the issue of the PTO hardly running? I wouldn’t think so but I am not an expert.
I can not thank you enough for the help