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Engine Wire Help

#1

D

Demons15

I recently came in possession of a hustler fastrak mower, model number 927368. The mower had a binder engine on it but owner replaced it with a Briggs and Stratton. He got the new motor on but gave up during the wiring process. The engine will run off I jump it. However, I need some help with identifying this wires and where to attach them. I have also included pictures from the old Honda engine.


#2

D

Demons15

Pictures below. I have been studying wire diagrams as well.

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#3

StarTech

StarTech

Well I see one thing that going to be a problem already The Briggs Dual Circuit stator is not going to handle the electric clutch very long as the clutch pulls over 3 amps and the stator only produces 3 amps max without the additional voltage regulator. And even with the voltage regulator it can only produce up to 5 amps.

Also the mower's wiring colors are not matching the circuit schematic so you need to test each wire for what it does. I would suggest having someone in your that is familiar with repowering mowers to look over your wiring. Some of us are familiar with dealing with wiring that don't what the OEM said they used.


#4

B

bertsmobile1

Well according to the wiring diagram ( very bad one at that ) the honda had a rectified, charge indicator & oil warning light
None of which are on your B & S engine
And as Star has already mentioned you will need to swap that alternator for 20 amp one , because it will have the small magnets in it
So you need a stator with 2 yellow wires for starters
The black wire coming from under the engine cover is AC voltage and you have it hooked up to a ground circuit so you may have blown the magneto if you have cranked the engine like that


#5

D

Demons15

Thanks for the help. This is how it came wired


#6

D

Demons15

The black wire come from under the engine is not hooked to ground, it’s hooked to the carburetor solenoid


#7

D

Demons15

New update. Got everything hooked up and engine will run if we by pass the switch. If we turn the switch, to crank it, fuse blows


#8

B

bertsmobile1

The fuse is blowing because one of the ground wires is connected to a power wire or a power wire is connected to ground
It is difficult when some idiot mutilates the wiring
The 2 wires from the stator are the wires I was talking about
They go into a white plug
The red wire is DC to recharge the battery if the diode ( the bulge in the wire just before the plug ) is working
The black wire next to it is AC for lights only
This is why that stator is called a "Duel Circuit" alternator .
Your mower has no AC circuits
Now some times people put a diode on that wire as well and also run it to the battery in order to use the wrong stator.
This is a fools errand as it burns out the stator and usually the diodes regularly fail as they do not have enough capacity to remove the heat they generate .

Mower engines are self powering
Once you start them they require no power to run other than for the carb solenoid .
So getting it to run is no big deal, I do that all the time on my engine stand with a jumper pack & transistor battery for the solenoid .
The approximate wiring diagram is found in the Owners manual which is a free download from Hustler .
Briggs put out a booklet for several years called "the repower guide " which was all about electrical systems and contains generic diagrams for every possible set up
So download the Hustler manual , it is free and that will show you what the MOWER wires colour code is which hopefully should be the same on the engine side of Mr Incompetents joins
Under is the only one I have that is worth posting
It might not be exactly the same as yours but the colours should be the same
Fast Track wiring.jpg


#9

StarTech

StarTech

1685926693564.png


#10

D

Demons15

bertsmobile1 said:
The fuse is blowing because one of the ground wires is connected to a power wire or a power wire is connected to ground
It is difficult when some idiot mutilates the wiring
The 2 wires from the stator are the wires I was talking about
They go into a white plug
The red wire is DC to recharge the battery if the diode ( the bulge in the wire just before the plug ) is working
The black wire next to it is AC for lights only
This is why that stator is called a "Duel Circuit" alternator .
Your mower has no AC circuits
Now some times people put a diode on that wire as well and also run it to the battery in order to use the wrong stator.
This is a fools errand as it burns out the stator and usually the diodes regularly fail as they do not have enough capacity to remove the heat they generate .

Mower engines are self powering
Once you start them they require no power to run other than for the carb solenoid .
So getting it to run is no big deal, I do that all the time on my engine stand with a jumper pack & transistor battery for the solenoid .
The approximate wiring diagram is found in the Owners manual which is a free download from Hustler .
Briggs put out a booklet for several years called "the repower guide " which was all about electrical systems and contains generic diagrams for every possible set up
So download the Hustler manual , it is free and that will show you what the MOWER wires colour code is which hopefully should be the same on the engine side of Mr Incompetents joins
Under is the only one I have that is worth posting
It might not be exactly the same as yours but the colours should be the same
View attachment 64881
Click to expand...
First of all, thanks for all the help! I felt that I may have sounded like I was being argumentative and wanted to make sure that was not the case.

I fully understand that this person has completely messed up the wiring with this mower. I feel like there is a solution but is going to take a lot of studying and testing of the wires.
We have tested all the wires and noted where power is coming from and there is no power.

Another problem we found is that the ignition switch was changed out and the wrong one was installed. When we disconnected the clutch, all relays and other wires, the fuse was still blowing. Starting to really think the wrong ignition switch is also an issue.


#11

B

bertsmobile1

by and large the only thing that the switch itself will cause the fuse to blow is if it connects the B (battery ) terminal directly to the G (ground) terminal.
After that it has to be a wire that is connected wrong.
So the next trick is to unplug everything one at a time till the fuse stops blowing starting with that alternator stator plug which I rather think is your problem as both the AC & DC
wires appear to be connected to some thing and you can not do that .
It could even be a bad relay
I use circuit breakers when on site because blowing 25 fuses becomes very expensive very quickly and of course the next job will need one of the fuses I have just blown.
IN the workshop I use a test light which is an old headlight with a blown element .

The Honda , Kawakasi and Briggs engines all had substantially different looms
The Honda has an oil & Battery light
The Kawasaki has an oil warning light
The B & S has neither
Each of those looms are different
And this assumes the loom that is there is the one that should be there and the Honda was in fact the original engine .
Get the B & S repower guide and read it a couple of times so you can understand what should be happening
When you fully understand how it is supposed to work, and in particular what connections the key switch should be making then you might have a chance to get it on the grass befoe the lions hiding in the log grass start terrorising your dog.


#12

D

Demons15

bertsmobile1 said:
by and large the only thing that the switch itself will cause the fuse to blow is if it connects the B (battery ) terminal directly to the G (ground) terminal.
After that it has to be a wire that is connected wrong.
So the next trick is to unplug everything one at a time till the fuse stops blowing starting with that alternator stator plug which I rather think is your problem as both the AC & DC
wires appear to be connected to some thing and you can not do that .
It could even be a bad relay
I use circuit breakers when on site because blowing 25 fuses becomes very expensive very quickly and of course the next job will need one of the fuses I have just blown.
IN the workshop I use a test light which is an old headlight with a blown element .

The Honda , Kawakasi and Briggs engines all had substantially different looms
The Honda has an oil & Battery light
The Kawasaki has an oil warning light
The B & S has neither
Each of those looms are different
And this assumes the loom that is there is the one that should be there and the Honda was in fact the original engine .
Get the B & S repower guide and read it a couple of times so you can understand what should be happening
When you fully understand how it is supposed to work, and in particular what connections the key switch should be making then you might have a chance to get it on the grass befoe the lions hiding in the log grass start terrorising your dog.
Click to expand...
Wanted to provide you a little update. We have re wired the whole system and matched wires. This lead us to find the problem of when the keys is turned all the way to start, it blows the fuse. Now to find the solution.

attached is a picture that shows two wires connected together. They were hooked up to the negative terminal on the battery.

When they are not attached, the relay connected to the switch just buzzes when trying to start.
If I connect the wires to the negative terminal, fuse pops.

I got in contact with the previous owner who said he replaced the switch with one he had laying around. Would this be the switch or the two wires don’t go to the negative terminal.

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#13

S

STEVES

Best to put correct switch in, rather than guess if switch lying around is bad or switching power to ground.


#14

C

Cajun power

bertsmobile1 said:
by and large the only thing that the switch itself will cause the fuse to blow is if it connects the B (battery ) terminal directly to the G (ground) terminal.
After that it has to be a wire that is connected wrong.
So the next trick is to unplug everything one at a time till the fuse stops blowing starting with that alternator stator plug which I rather think is your problem as both the AC & DC
wires appear to be connected to some thing and you can not do that .
It could even be a bad relay
I use circuit breakers when on site because blowing 25 fuses becomes very expensive very quickly and of course the next job will need one of the fuses I have just blown.
IN the workshop I use a test light which is an old headlight with a blown element .

The Honda , Kawakasi and Briggs engines all had substantially different looms
The Honda has an oil & Battery light
The Kawasaki has an oil warning light
The B & S has neither
Each of those looms are different
And this assumes the loom that is there is the one that should be there and the Honda was in fact the original engine .
Get the B & S repower guide and read it a couple of times so you can understand what should be happening
When you fully understand how it is supposed to work, and in particular what connections the key switch should be making then you might have a chance to get it on the grass befoe the lions hiding in the log grass start terrorising your dog.
Click to expand...
when I lurk, it's usually to follow your expert knowledge and guidance. Well done!


#15

D

Demons15

bertsmobile1 said:
by and large the only thing that the switch itself will cause the fuse to blow is if it connects the B (battery ) terminal directly to the G (ground) terminal.
After that it has to be a wire that is connected wrong.
So the next trick is to unplug everything one at a time till the fuse stops blowing starting with that alternator stator plug which I rather think is your problem as both the AC & DC
wires appear to be connected to some thing and you can not do that .
It could even be a bad relay
I use circuit breakers when on site because blowing 25 fuses becomes very expensive very quickly and of course the next job will need one of the fuses I have just blown.
IN the workshop I use a test light which is an old headlight with a blown element .

The Honda , Kawakasi and Briggs engines all had substantially different looms
The Honda has an oil & Battery light
The Kawasaki has an oil warning light
The B & S has neither
Each of those looms are different
And this assumes the loom that is there is the one that should be there and the Honda was in fact the original engine .
Get the B & S repower guide and read it a couple of times so you can understand what should be happening
When you fully understand how it is supposed to work, and in particular what connections the key switch should be making then you might have a chance to get it on the grass befoe the lions hiding in the log grass start terrorising your dog.
Click to expand...
Put the new switch and bam, the baby cranks up and runs. Now we are on the finding a solution to the next problem…

when I engage the PTO, it barely turns. So trying to figure out if it’s the PTO switch, bad wiring or the clutch is bad.

also, the Honda motor had two grey wires coming out of the alternator. Would I just wire the grey wires from the rectifier to the yellow wires from the new alternator?


#16

B

bertsmobile1

So you bought a new 10A stators wth 2 yellow wires going into a white plug did you ?
If that is the case then yes you car wire it to the honda rectifier yellow to grey and red to red please put a plug in there just in case it is wrong & needs to be disconnected quickly
The Honda rectifier grounds through the mounting bolt so make sure yours is grounded where ever you put it
On that engine is would go to the dip stick It needs to be mounted some where that gets a breeze off the fan to dissipate the heat .


#17

D

Demons15

bertsmobile1 said:
So you bought a new 10A stators wth 2 yellow wires going into a white plug did you ?
If that is the case then yes you car wire it to the honda rectifier yellow to grey and red to red please put a plug in there just in case it is wrong & needs to be disconnected quickly
The Honda rectifier grounds through the mounting bolt so make sure yours is grounded where ever you put it
On that engine is would go to the dip stick It needs to be mounted some where that gets a breeze off the fan to dissipate the heat .
Click to expand...

Attached our the photos of the alternator I bought. It’s a 20am alternator as I was thinking the magnets would be for the smaller fly wheel.

The two grey wires come straight from the rectifier. Would those two grey wires hook straight to the two yellow wires from the alternator? I don’t see a red wire unless I buy a voltage regulator, do I even need one?

would this be the issue of the PTO hardly running? I wouldn’t think so but I am not an expert.
I can not thank you enough for the help

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