do I rebuild or replace my b&s 24hp intek motor?

[StarTech]

YTH24v48

This mower usually has an electric PTO clutch so the deck will need to come off for two reasons. One just makes accessing things easier. Two it so you can access the drive belt path.

The electric PTO come off fairly most times just using an impact wrench with a 5/8 (16mm) socket. Once the electric clutch is off you will the drive pulley behind it next to the engine's sump. It needs to come off so the drive belt needs removing. Be careful during the removal of the clutch and drive pulley as sometime there spacer washers used. Need to close attention to the order of the parts including the orientation of the drive pulley.

When putting the electric PTO back on is when you use a torque wrench to tighten it. Also don't forget make the anti rotation device is properly located on the clutch. Some if PTO clutch has a double D adapter then a wrench is use to hold it while tightening the bolt to 55 ft/lbs. If not present which I doubt it is used on this particular clutch then you would need to remove the engine's shroud so the flywheel can held in place using a large flat blade screw up again one of the ignition coil's mounting posts. This where a helper is plus as it is hard to hold the screw driver in place and tighten the PTO retaining bolt at the same time. Not impossible to done but a lot harder when you are the only one doing it. Don't forget to use anti-seize compound on the crankshaft.

 

[alvinjohn62]

Thanks You all!
I'm off to my day job now so I will continue working on the mower tomorrow.
Hopefully we will get to see the inside of it then.

 

[alvinjohn62]

Oh, Do I need to take out the flywheel"
Also, just to be sure, all fasteners are SAE right?

 

[StarTech]

Nothing other than the top belt
so once you have the belts and pulley off all hat holds the engine in place will be the muffler & the 4 mounting bolts.
If there is oil in the engine, remove it before you start lifting the engine out
The exhaust pipes are loose in the muffler but it rarely pulls out easily when lifting the engine up .
As for the engine
Back in 1997 Husqvarna put a 13 Hp Kohler single in the YTH150 which had a 42" deck
Followed in 2000 with the YTH 170 with a 31 series B & S rated at 15 Hp, again a 42" deck
2008 it became the YTH 180, same deck but an 18Hp Kohler single and by the ned of the model run an 18Hp Kohler twin
By 2015 tit had become the YTH 22V42 , same 42" deck but now fitted with a 44 series B &S rated at 22 HP
Then we have your YTH 2442 Same deck but now fitted with a 24HP B & S
So in the space of 13 years apparently the grass has become so much tougher that you need a mower with just about twice the Hp ,,,really ?

Nothing changed in this time other than the size of the engine and the spindle housing going from 3 lugs to 4 lugs
So the only thing you will notice about the 20 Hp engine is you will use less fuel as they all spin at the same speed .

Bert, The OP mower has a 48" deck per his model number posted as it need every bit of the 24 hp to operate the deck. Besides I believe the YTH2442 does not exist here. But a YTH2242 does as does the YTH24V42LS. Now YTH2448, YTH24V48 and YTH24V54 do exist.

YTH24V48 and YTH24V54 mowers uses a three spindles and a very long deck belt. Even with a 24hp engine it is hard on the engine to start up these 48" and 54" decks. Plus when in operation the deck grass loads will need this hp just to clear it. The YTH2448 uses a different 2 deck belt setup but just as a big load as the single belt setup. Putting on a 20hp engine on either one these would just will not work very well at all.

Here is the YTH24V48 deck setup.


I personally using a 42" MTD that came with a 16.5hp engine that was a gutless wonder. Now with a 21hp it came to life as an usable mower. Instead just cutting off a couple inches now it can 12" cut offs.

 

[Elkins45]

Oh, Do I need to take out the flywheel"
Also, just to be sure, all fasteners are SAE right?

You don’t need to pull the flywheel. After you remove the engine you just need to flip it over and remove the sump bolts. You’ll also need to disconnect the governor.

 

[alvinjohn62]

by governor i assume it is the vane that is blown by airflow from the blower?

 

[StarTech]

by governor i assume it is the vane that is blown by airflow from the blower?

Nope.

 

[Elkins45]

by governor i assume it is the vane that is blown by airflow from the blower?

Ignore the foolishness and fast forward to 6:30

 

[bertsmobile1]

Well Star, you & I will just have to dissagree on this one
I have a CZ 4815K in my run and that is a ZTR with the same 48" deck , and 2 hydros driven of a 15 Hp Kawasaki
Now this is the engine with the electronic ignition advance so it does have a few more testicales than your run of the mill 15 Hp B & S
and that is a 2000 model that got upgraded every year so they went from 15 , to 18 to 20 to 22 till the model was abandoned ,
And I have a 10/32 side valve that will happily chomp down 4' of grass & woody weeds along the 5 acres of verge that I have to mow with ease .
The YTH are what Husqvarna fobs off as a Yard Tractor so have substantially bigger engines in order to power the ground engaging attachments like rotary hoes

 

[StarTech]

Yes some engines actually rated for their net hp and not the gross hp. I once had a 12.5hp Briggs side valve here on a 38" that reworked due governor failure and I miss timed the camshaft by one tooth and it hp (torque) was greatly increased. I also seen smaller hp side valves outperform larger OHV engines. It all matter where the peak torque curve is and the pulley system is designed.