The fact one piston isn’t moving suggests a broken connecting rod since the other one presumably still moves. The lack of valve movement suggests either the camshaft is broken or it somehow disengaged from the crank, since it is turned by direct engagement of gear teeth. Either way I suspect when you open the sump you’ll find very bad things. Honestly when an engine is that damaged I would be hesitant to put money into replacing parts because so much else could be wrong.
do I rebuild or replace my b&s 24hp intek motor?
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alvinjohn62
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Ok I'm considering buying a new motor or a used motor.
Any recommendations for a wholesaler and also a salvage yard?
Any recommendations for a wholesaler and also a salvage yard?
sgkent
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add something that helps us know where you are. Also the manufacturers webpage lists two engines of the same power but different crankshafts for that model. You need to look to see what engine # you have in it. I don't know where the B&S model number will be but if it isn't obvious someone here can tell you where to look.
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bertsmobile1
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So ,if you like to pull things apart to see how they work then you have some thing to do during those long winter nights that will be beneficial to your brain cells rather than allowing the box to attrify them .
GO to Small Engine Warehouse or Small Engine Suppliers or Repower and read up on how to measure your engine.
AFAIK it looks like a std engine but it can have either a 1" or 1.125" diameter crankshaft .
The 20Hp engine listed on the other thread would be the way to go if the cranks are the same length & diameter .
Unless you have a lot of hills or tow or snow plough or like to cut your grass at 2' weather it needs it or not then you will not notice the 4 Hp
I regularly replace engines with lower power ones because I can get a particular size one cheap and not a single person has complained or even noticed any difference .
The only time we had grief was from a wife who did the mowing & she complained bitterly so we ( hubby & I ) polished the old engine blower housing , put a new sticker on it and wifey poo was then happy with the better performance .
Like cars mowers come out with the correct sized engine then each couple of seasons get a bigger engine to make it look like they are "upgrading" the model and FWIW the original engine is usually 25% bigger than what the mower actually needs to run .
Several different HP ratings are derrived rom each engine capacity and that is the first 2 digits of the engine number,'So if yours is a 44XXXX then you can swap out your alternator & carb & throttle controls with any new 44XXXX engine.
Cheaper engines usually have smaller alternators and a combined throttle-choke control .
GO to Small Engine Warehouse or Small Engine Suppliers or Repower and read up on how to measure your engine.
AFAIK it looks like a std engine but it can have either a 1" or 1.125" diameter crankshaft .
The 20Hp engine listed on the other thread would be the way to go if the cranks are the same length & diameter .
Unless you have a lot of hills or tow or snow plough or like to cut your grass at 2' weather it needs it or not then you will not notice the 4 Hp
I regularly replace engines with lower power ones because I can get a particular size one cheap and not a single person has complained or even noticed any difference .
The only time we had grief was from a wife who did the mowing & she complained bitterly so we ( hubby & I ) polished the old engine blower housing , put a new sticker on it and wifey poo was then happy with the better performance .
Like cars mowers come out with the correct sized engine then each couple of seasons get a bigger engine to make it look like they are "upgrading" the model and FWIW the original engine is usually 25% bigger than what the mower actually needs to run .
Several different HP ratings are derrived rom each engine capacity and that is the first 2 digits of the engine number,'So if yours is a 44XXXX then you can swap out your alternator & carb & throttle controls with any new 44XXXX engine.
Cheaper engines usually have smaller alternators and a combined throttle-choke control .
alvinjohn62
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Okay I am in Gainesville FL
As for liking to take things apart, that is just what i'm going to do. It's 5:25 am now and i'm heading out to the carport and shed to set up lights and start taking things apart.
I figured I need to take out the deck first or the belt that connects with the deck.
I also dont know how it connects to drive the mower so i will find out soon.
Thank You all!
As for liking to take things apart, that is just what i'm going to do. It's 5:25 am now and i'm heading out to the carport and shed to set up lights and start taking things apart.
I figured I need to take out the deck first or the belt that connects with the deck.
I also dont know how it connects to drive the mower so i will find out soon.
Thank You all!
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Personally I would not recommend dropping 4 hp. Usually it is best stick with the same hp or a little more as most mower are using engine at minimum hp needed.
PTO length convert to factional length is 3-5/32.
And threads is 7/16-20.
The direct replacement is 44S977-0032-G1 which is a Briggs promotional engine.
But 44N877-0007-G1 will also work or any engine with the same crankshaft specs and mounting bolt pattern.
PTO length convert to factional length is 3-5/32.
And threads is 7/16-20.
The direct replacement is 44S977-0032-G1 which is a Briggs promotional engine.
But 44N877-0007-G1 will also work or any engine with the same crankshaft specs and mounting bolt pattern.
I did an engine swap on my Craftsman without removing the deck. I just dropped it all the way down and removed the belts. From the bottom all you have to do is remove the pulley and the four mounting bolts, at least in a mower with manual blade engagement. Does your blade engage electrically? If so you will have to deal with the electric blade clutch.
Since it appears your engine has a 1” PTO the 20hp I mentioned that’s on sale would work if you can live with 20hp. You might have to swap the alternator from your old engine if you have electric blade engagement. How big is your deck?
alvinjohn62
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ok, again Thanks so much for all the help!!!!
i am done taking all the connections on the upper side. Now underneath i will take off the belt to the blades. What baffles me is what connects the motor to the rear wheels? I dont want to be surprised having to deal with that in the middle of lifting the motor.
i am done taking all the connections on the upper side. Now underneath i will take off the belt to the blades. What baffles me is what connects the motor to the rear wheels? I dont want to be surprised having to deal with that in the middle of lifting the motor.
Most mowers have a dual pulley. The bottom groove is for the blade belt and the top one is for the drive belt. You should see it when you get under the mower.
bertsmobile1
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Nothing other than the top belt
so once you have the belts and pulley off all hat holds the engine in place will be the muffler & the 4 mounting bolts.
If there is oil in the engine, remove it before you start lifting the engine out
The exhaust pipes are loose in the muffler but it rarely pulls out easily when lifting the engine up .
As for the engine
Back in 1997 Husqvarna put a 13 Hp Kohler single in the YTH150 which had a 42" deck
Followed in 2000 with the YTH 170 with a 31 series B & S rated at 15 Hp, again a 42" deck
2008 it became the YTH 180, same deck but an 18Hp Kohler single and by the ned of the model run an 18Hp Kohler twin
By 2015 tit had become the YTH 22V42 , same 42" deck but now fitted with a 44 series B &S rated at 22 HP
Then we have your YTH 2442 Same deck but now fitted with a 24HP B & S
So in the space of 13 years apparently the grass has become so much tougher that you need a mower with just about twice the Hp ,,,really ?
Nothing changed in this time other than the size of the engine and the spindle housing going from 3 lugs to 4 lugs
So the only thing you will notice about the 20 Hp engine is you will use less fuel as they all spin at the same speed .