CV15-41562 Ticking Noise?

bertsmobile1

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When I first started looking into this, everything that I read kept saying to bed sure to run 10w30 in these engines as single weight oils will make more noise. In my case I don't think it would matter since the noise isn't at startup (10w) but rather when the engine gets up to temp (30w). I do not know which oil was run in the machine before I got it but I started using Kohler Synthetic 10w30 when I first changed the oil. I might look into a conventional 10w30 such as the Deere oil to see if that makes a difference. Either way, I think the lifters need to be swapped. It is only by a lack of ability for the rod to return up (follow the rocker) that it would then let the rocker tap on the rod. In other words, short or a not-so-likely cam issue, it is the lifter going/gone bad.

You have been confused by all of the advetising BS about oils
The 10W oil does no get thicker when it gets hot, it just maintains about the same viscosity hot & cold
The strait 30W starts off thick when cold but quickly gets thin when hot
So a 10W 30 & strait 30 have the same viscosity when hot but the 10W 30 is thinner when cold
The trick is the second number in a multigrade is measures are 100C so a 10W 30 is the same viscosity at 100C as strait 30 is at 100C both of which will be lower than 10W cold
The big difference is the multi grade being thinner when cold will create less viscious drag on the starter motor .
 

Hammermechanicman

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The 2 JD dealers near me are $98/hr and i would agree that they are not a machine shop. The dealer tech is diagnosing a problem inside an engine without seeing inside the engine first so they are quoting worst case which is what i would do too because for the money they will need to warranty the work. Probably the high estimate is their way of not wanting to do the work which i understand. In all probability a new set of lifters would fix the problem but if the tech opened the engine and did not find an obvious problem he would need to check all rod and piston clearances and replace the lifters and cam because the shop does not want to take it apart a second time on their own dime if the noise is still there.
 

cruzenmike

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I guess part of this issue may be my fault; at least with the dealership. When I first noticed the problem I called the dealership and talked with a guy at the counter. I explained to him that I had an LT155 with the Kohler CV15 and that I was having a ticking sound under the valve cover which just started and was (from my hours of research including reading forum posts, watching YouTube videos and consulting with a car mechanic) likely a collapsed lifter. I asked him what they could do and at the time he went through the "worst case" scenario which was to have to replace the whole head assembly along with the new lifters. Over the phone he told me the cost would be about $500. When I finally got around to taking the mower in, the person that I talked to on the phone was not in so I had to deal with someone else at the counter. He simply wrote down on the service ticket "lifter noise at operating temp." From there I have played phone tag and gone back and forth with this other guy and his Technician about what they think needs to be done, and whether or not it is worth it considering the mower's age, DESPITE the fact that upon running the mower for half an hour the Technician said that it sounded "normal" and "good." Any attempt to get them to just do what I originally discussed with the counter person before I brought it in, has led to an ongoing tally of this and that which should be done and the $1250 quote that came to be.

I certainly wasn't expecting anything for free, nor did I have an issue with the labor rate, rather I have an issue with how a seemingly simple job that I asked to have done, and will likely solve my problem has turned into me picking up my mower without anything done and to have to tackle the project myself. I am fully capable and know enough about this job to do it myself, I just didn't want to hassle with it as I have many other projects going on at home right now. Had they just done what was originally discussed and charged me the $500 for said job, this discussion would be non-existent.

As a side note, I do understand some basic properties of oil. Like I said before the issue of the tick/tap/knock, whatever you want to call it, does NOT occur when the engine is cold, or anywhere near that. I would have to run the mower for at least a half an hour, under load, before I would start to hear the sound. Turn off and let it sit for even a couple of minutes and it will go away, but quickly come back as the engine and oil are still hot. I have always ran straight 30w oil in my summer machines as my climate and use has always allowed. I have only gone to 10w-30 in this engine BECAUSE the JD dealer as well as many others with ticking issues have suggested. Bert, when I stated 10w in my other post I was referring to startup viscosity being different in the 10w30 as opposed to the straight 30.

I have not tried any "mystery oil" but I did try using SeaFoam to help break down any deposits in the oil. I tried 1 ounce per quart of oil and 1.5 ounces per quart of oil. Each time I put the SeaFoam into fresh oil and ran for about 10 minutes at full throttle and then drained the oil, flushed and did the treatment again. I am open to trying a different engine oil additive/flush and possibly even SAE30 as SLOMO has suggested. All of these little "tests" are certainly cheaper than repairs and will not hurt the engine.

Lastly, my cell phones never cost more than $150. I just don't believe in spending absurd amounts of money on a very disposable and quickly out-dated piece of technology. Besides, I only use it to call, text, do email and keep a calendar. I don't play games, I don't have social media, I am no vlogger, blogger or Instagram model. So, if your intent was to point out how much people (me) spend on their cell phones and are not willing to pay for equipment repairs, it won't work here!! I certainly have no problem paying fair rates for quality work, I just don't appreciate the run around!

I really do appreciate everyone's attempt to help out here, but I think that the only way this one is going to get solved is to tear into it myself and see what I find. The alternative is to just run it until it dies. A re-power, albiet a Briggs single, is only about $700 anyway. Always an option down the road since everything else on the mower is perfect.
 
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tom3

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Buy a new Chinese special for a couple hundred bucks. Verify shaft size and rig up the muffler, pretty decent quality. And this place has a bunch of K56 Tuff Torq, hydros for cheap too.

 

cruzenmike

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Just to give an update:

I picked up the LT155 from the dealership on Friday and brought it home. The first thing that I did was add about 5 ounces of SeaFoam to the oil that was in it and ran it at idle for about 20 minutes and then did a complete oil change. The oil that was in the machine only had about 3 hours on it, but it still came out kind of dark, so maybe the SeaForm did it's work. I threw a new filter on it and put in two quarts of Torq-Gard SAE30 oil. Fast forward to today and I ran the mower for about an hour and a half without the ticking noise returning, BUT now I can smell it burning oil. It would make a faint smell of burning oil at startup when I first got it, but it would never small of burning oil throughout the mowing. It is not blowing out smoke or anything like that, but I now worried that the engine issues may be more severe than just the lifters. Could it be that the different oil is causing it to burn more? I always thought that multi-grade viscosity oils were more likely to be "consumed" or burned through normal use.
 

ILENGINE

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Make sure that one of the valve covers isn't leaking and dripping down on the muffler. Doesn't take much to create a heck of a smell and smoke screen.
 

cruzenmike

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Make sure that one of the valve covers isn't leaking and dripping down on the muffler. Doesn't take much to create a heck of a smell and smoke screen.

I looked at the valve cover and there is nothing leaking there. I am quite certain that it is coming from within the engine. I am still contemplating taking the head off to inspect and replace any valvetrain components that need it, which obviously includes replacing the head gasket so if this doesn't fix the burning oil issue then I think that just leaves the piston rings. For the coming weeks I will probably just monitor my oil consumption to gauge how bad it is. If I can live with it, I might just go on for a while until the end of the season maybe when I have a bit more time to tinker with it.
 
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bertsmobile1

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Pull the breather tube off the back of the air filter housing.
Problem goes away or reduces substantially = rings
 

tom3

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Might make no difference, but my Kohler has had their 10w30 in it since new. Last spring I was in Rural Kind and they had Valvoline oil on sale, way better than $8 a quart, got a couple quarts and changed the oil. Like you, I started smelling oil burning right off. Real quick I changed it again with Rotella 15w40 and a zinc additive. Been fine since then. Might give this a try?
 

cruzenmike

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Might make no difference, but my Kohler has had their 10w30 in it since new. Last spring I was in Rural Kind and they had Valvoline oil on sale, way better than $8 a quart, got a couple quarts and changed the oil. Like you, I started smelling oil burning right off. Real quick I changed it again with Rotella 15w40 and a zinc additive. Been fine since then. Might give this a try?

This weekend I will double check the oil level which might be a tiny bit high and take it down to a smidge below the full line and see what happens. I will then try the breather tube and see if that tells me anything. Worst case I already have a couple of quarts of the Kolher synthetic 10w30 waiting should I want to change it back over. I certainly hope that I am not juggling one problem for another by changing oil grades. Maybe I will look for a good off-road oil with ZDDP?
 
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