So the broken rod is most likely a "symptom" of a problem. It's not simply that the rod broke.. and that was the total issue. No, the oil pump stopped, the engine was over-reved, the oil wasn't changed regularly, fuel got into the engine oil and prevented lubrication, water got into the engine oil... something else made the rod break. My point is... rods simply don't break on their own.
Bottom line... if you simply replace the rod without finding and fixing the REAL problem, then the next rod will also break in a very short time. And all your work will be wasted.
You MUST do the "root cause analysis" first.
If you read through the whole thread you will see that I was having an issue with a the lifters when all of this started happening. I am not certain as to what it was that lead to the final (catastrophic) failure, but I can say with 100% certainty that the engine was not over-revved, the oil was clean with no evidence of water or fuel in it. It is entirely possible that the collapsed lifter that I suspected was causing my "ticking" sound in the weeks prior to the failure lead to a more serious breakdown should the air/exhaust valves stopped functioning properly. What leads me to believe this is that just before the failure the engine started bogging down with a very noticeable sound in the exhaust note and when the engine was turned off it stopped with a loud "clank" or "clunk" which was likely the moment when the rod made contact with the cylinder wall and camshaft. Regardless, the failure was not a complete surprise as the engine was already exhibiting some issues that I was attempting to fix but was obviously not successful.
Anyway, I have a used, but running motor in the machine now and am looking for what to do with the old motor. Assuming that I replaced enough of the bad parts from the original engine, I could get a good running spare to keep on the shelf. I have a complete CV13S that is supposed to be in running condition, and this CV15S that has the broken cylinder wall, broken connecting rod and broken camshaft. If I rebuilt the CV15S I would replace the above-mentioned broken parts along with lifters, rods, oil pump, all new gaskets and rings for the piston. I would also replace any seals on the top and bottom of the crankshaft. I do not know if there is supposed to be any play in there but with the bottom end off the crankshaft does appear to move up and down slightly.
I am only looking to see if I would need to buy a new short block or if I could use the one from the CV13S to start the rebuild on the CV15S?
