Cub Cadet XT1 - Keeps blowing 20 Amp Fuse when trying to start - No Crank No Start - just blowing fuses - SOLVED!!!

[StarTech]

Try unplugging the carburetor fuel solenoid.

If that is the short Kohler wants you to buy a complete carburetor PN 22 853 02-S.

 

[JoeFromRomeo]

The Fuse blows when I rotate the ignition switch even to the first setting!!


That makes quite a difference electrically. The OL is on A1 (1st position ON) on the ignition switch and it has several additional circuits involved.
Circuits not involved are the voltage regulator.
Most likely the starter solenoid is not involved being a Kohler with the solenoid made on the starter.

Since no electric wiring schematic for that rig I would start by disconnecting any plugs that have a solid red wire in the wire loom, for example disconnect the after fire solenoid on the bottom of the carb, make sure the headlight switch is turned off (some of them Cubs use 12vDC battery power instead of just the stator) then look at the electronic modules and any that have a solid red wire in the wire loom disconnect their PLUGS going to the electronic boards, disconnect the wiring harness plug going to the engine. (normally a big white plastic plug) I would think about un-plugging/disconnecting several of the plugs at once that I see that have a solid red wire (the SMALL solid red insulated wire in the wiring looms is the 12v supply wire and can be switched or not switched and if the fuse does not blow then start plugging them back in one plug at a time until it blows

Did you ever get a manually re-settable circuit breaker? (instead of just using a fuse)
Do you have any rats or mice that might have chewed on your equipment???
Have you had any electrical issues in the past with the rig?

I have ordered a set of resettable ATC fuses - but they have not arrived.
The mower is kept in my shed - which hosts many squirrels in the winter - and it's getting cold out - so they are getting into that shed. But I don't see any evidence of chewed or bare wires.
I have not had any electrical issues or starting issues with the mower previously. It's started and ran perfectly. I have also not added any electrical devices to the mower (such as additional lights or horns).

 

[JoeFromRomeo]

Try unplugging the carburetor fuel solenoid.

If that is the short Kohler wants you to buy a complete carburetor PN 22 853 02-S.

Ok, I disconnected the wire on the carburetor fuel solenoid, replaced the 20 Amp ATC fuse - attempted to start it - and it blew the 20 Amp fuse (again). (Note: This was after reconnecting the voltage regulator/rectifier)

 

[JoeFromRomeo]

Any other words of wisdom? Things to check?

 

[bertsmobile1]

Electronics 101
Disconnect everything in he wiring
starting from the downstream end ( ie bits that bade a direct ground connection 0 reconnect parts one at a time till the fuse pops
The last item connected ( or the wires to it ) will be the culprit
The most common one is a direct short in the rectifier as it is connected to the battery +& the ground as soon as the key gets to the run position

 

[StarTech]

The problem Bert is many OEM here in the states leaves the rectifier/voltage regulator hot all the time (otherwords a non switched circuit) which actually drains the battery over time through parasitic leakage of voltage/current. Some don't even fuse the rectifier/regulator circuit.

Some OEM are beginning to switch to a switched rectifier/voltage regulator circuit but it is still not a common thing.

 

[ILENGINE]

The problem Bert is many OEM here in the states leaves the rectifier/voltage regulator hot all the time (otherwords a non switched circuit) which actually drains the battery over time through parasitic leakage of voltage/current. Some don't even fuse the rectifier/regulator circuit.

Some OEM are beginning to switch to a switched rectifier/voltage regulator circuit but it is still not a common thing.

Kohler had a note a few years ago that basically said that they do not recommend wiring the regulator/rectifier to be battery switched, and on mowers that were battery switched to rewire the purple wire directly to the battery side of the starters solenoid.

It was part of the DSAM to DSAI conversion because they were having so many issues with voltage spikes killing modules. Also we were to add a clamping diode to the clutch wiring to help prevent voltage spikes due to the clutch shutting off becoming a generator.

 

[StarTech]

Actually any inductor (ie coil, solenoid, relay, etc.) can have EMF feedback spikes. Many relays contain such a diode to prevent self engagement of the relays due the EMF oscillation and I have personally seen relays to chatter due to the lack of these diodes.

 

[ILENGINE]

Actually any inductor (ie coil, solenoid, relay, etc.) can have EMF feedback spikes. Many relays contain such a diode to prevent self engagement of the relays due the EMF oscillation and I have personally seen relays to chatter due to the lack of these diodes.

Had a case a few years back in my Kohler region that was running a laptop with the Kohler EFI software. They were having a run issue and had the pto running, and when they shut off the electric clutch is fried the ECU for the Kohler EFI and the the laptop computer that was connected to the diag port.

 

[shadetree#1]

You asked:
Any other words of wisdom? Things to check?


electronics 101.
Also read post #6 on pg 1, last paragraph
You might consider contacting Cub Cadet and ask them to email you a Electrical wiring schematic.
You might also ask them if your machines electrical wiring schematic is listed within this link and if so you can post up the download link for your machine.

Cub Cadet Wiring Schematics

Find Cub Cadet Parts, Cub Cadet Blades, and Cub Cadet Belts and more. Also Save on MTD Parts, and Troy Bilt parts and Kohler Engine Parts.

www.ccpartsnmore.com

(scroll down to the LT section and see the example link of a electrical schematic at the link I posted)
file:///C:/Users/owner/Downloads/LT%201042%20(2006).pdf

I see a 515 phone number at the top of the page at this link.

If we had a electrical wiring schematic FOR YOUR MACHINE using your model and serial number, we can maybe tell you which individual wires to disconnect and test.

Also note at the bottom of the link wiring schematic the chart showing the key switch diagram that shows B making to A1 (B+A1) when the ignition with is turned on. You can see all the SMALL red wiring branch circuits that are coming off of A1. This is the circuits that I suggest you disconnect. Especially the plug that has the red A1 wire going to the module. One of the small red wires coming off of your A1 terminal on your ignition switch is the source of the OverLoad. (OL)