Cub Cadet XT1 - Keeps blowing 20 Amp Fuse when trying to start - No Crank No Start - just blowing fuses - SOLVED!!!

[shadetree#1]

Here is couple of pictures of the regulator and how to test and a picture of where it might be located on your engine. If it's not located in this area just look for the regulator that has the 3 wires attached. Yours might be different. If we had the model of your Kohler engine we can tell you where it is or send you a picture. (or you can search on-line using the Kohler engine Model #'s.
Some of them Kohler regulator wiring plugs do not unplug from the regulator easily.
Kohler voltage regulator - - Video Search Results (yahoo.com)



https://www.ebay.com/itm/3844072389...fQr/8+qgtSETdCqmzYrhGLog==|tkp:Bk9SR8bxxfuMYQ

 

[JoeFromRomeo]

From the key switch power goes to the PTO switch then brake switch then the solenoid
If your solenoid has 2 small wires on the bottom ( trigger wires ) check that both of them are isolated from ground

Mine has two (2) spade bit type slide on connectors. I replaced the starter solenoid thinking that it was the problem, but it is not the problem.

 

[JoeFromRomeo]

Here is couple of pictures of the regulator and how to test and a picture of where it might be located on your engine. If it's not located in this area just look for the regulator that has the 3 wires attached. Yours might be different. If we had the model of your Kohler engine we can tell you where it is or send you a picture. (or you can search on-line using the Kohler engine Model #'s.
Some of them Kohler regulator wiring plugs do not unplug from the regulator easily.
Kohler voltage regulator - - Video Search Results (yahoo.com)



https://www.ebay.com/itm/384407238908?hash=item598074f8fc:g:fzkAAOSwDb9hKKXp&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA8ELU3+dwU9X00UPcUwMNvQZqK32uuJijDuFsScaYxc/+h3yZaVEbajQxN7CtWBD6k4MJmAS2WRsZftxVY9vosYPCIUZXRYbVe1x7Eropbf0pxOuvPo35EmNvRJ8EQm6KfJ24lfAjLRQjAORVU6aENL17fdAgTWVeKu3iXfxZagLN2dmFj1qQuK/eRELs1rv1A06NB9NFydbqG0C5nSmquPKPq2XVHktcgmP7IBXtBx3/dEI60hZFxm++AM4kB2wsE1vfGT8Le+8c61UWTt8bTWeST8Ane/UHyq719JL8w3fQr/8+qgtSETdCqmzYrhGLog==|tkp:Bk9SR8bxxfuMYQ

Thank You - very much appreciated!

 

[JoeFromRomeo]

So you have a dead short
Start by disconnecting the rectifier/regulator plug & see what happens
Note the battery can not recharge when you do this so you get 3 to 5 hours of mowing then the battery goes flat and the fuel solenoid closes so the engine stops .

I am still not finding the rectifier/regulator on this engine.

 

[StarTech]

I am still not finding the rectifier/regulator on this engine.

The voltage regulator is not your problem as it is in the circuit when you are in the run position and you said the fuse only blows in the start position. There is only a few things left that can be the problem and you already replace the starter solenoid. That leaves the ignition, brake, and PTO switches along the associated wiring could be causing the short.
Beside we need which engine model and spec number to see where the regulator is if one is even used.

 

[JoeFromRomeo]

The voltage regulator is not your problem as it is in the circuit when you are in the run position and you said the fuse only blows in the start position. There is only a few things left that can be the problem and you already replace the starter solenoid. That leaves the ignition, brake, and PTO switches along the associated wiring could be causing the short.
Beside we need which engine model and spec number to see where the regulator is if one is even used.

Kohler 5400 Series
18 HP /541 cc
KS540
SPEC PS-KS540-3011
MOdel KS540-3011
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Found that rascal!!!! Back by the starter!
For grins and giggles - I disconnected it - replaced the 20 amp fuse - and tried again. However, the 20 amp fuse blew again.

***StarTech - I WAS mistaken - The Fuse blows when I rotate the ignition switch even to the first setting!! (With or without the rectifier in the circuit - completely removed)

 

[StarTech]

Yes that would be the 12/15a half wave rectifier/voltage regulator.

Snip from the SM for your engine.

 

[JoeFromRomeo]

Yes that would be the 12/15a half wave rectifier/voltage regulator.

Snip from the SM for your engine.
View attachment 62784

Yes - that is where I found it. It is a Kohler Part number 25 403 35 010918

***StarTech - I WAS mistaken - The Fuse blows when I rotate the ignition switch even to the first setting!! (With or without the rectifier in the circuit - completely removed)

 

[JoeFromRomeo]

The question is does it blow the fuse when the key is turned on or just when it is turned to the start position. Blow when turned on would point toward the regulator or the fuel solenoid. Crank could include all the safety switch wiring on the start circuit.

I WAS mistaken - The Fuse blows when I rotate the ignition switch even to the first setting!! (With or without the rectifier in the circuit - completely removed)

 

[shadetree#1]

Yes - that is where I found it. It is a Kohler Part number 25 403 35 010918

***StarTech - I WAS mistaken - The Fuse blows when I rotate the ignition switch even to the first setting!! (With or without the rectifier in the circuit - completely removed)

The Fuse blows when I rotate the ignition switch even to the first setting!!


That makes quite a difference electrically. The OL is on A1 (1st position ON) on the ignition switch and it has several additional circuits involved.
Circuits not involved are the voltage regulator.
Most likely the starter solenoid is not involved being a Kohler with the solenoid made on the starter.

Since no electric wiring schematic for that rig I would start by disconnecting any plugs that have a solid red wire in the wire loom, for example disconnect the after fire solenoid on the bottom of the carb, make sure the headlight switch is turned off (some of them Cubs use 12vDC battery power instead of just the stator) then look at the electronic modules and any that have a solid red wire in the wire loom disconnect their PLUGS going to the electronic boards, disconnect the wiring harness plug going to the engine. (normally a big white plastic plug) I would think about un-plugging/disconnecting several of the plugs at once that I see that have a solid red wire (the SMALL solid red insulated wire in the wiring looms is the 12v supply wire and can be switched or not switched and if the fuse does not blow then start plugging them back in one plug at a time until it blows

Did you ever get a manually re-settable circuit breaker? (instead of just using a fuse)
Do you have any rats or mice that might have chewed on your equipment???
Have you had any electrical issues in the past with the rig?