Cub Cadet EZ oil drain pull & twist

[Poodlehead]

I changed the oil recently in my newly acquired mower and I was able to unscrew that entire quick change assy. Not at all good!

I cleaned it up, put Teflon tape on the threads, an aluminum washer that typically goes on oil drain plugs, and screwed it back in. That's when I discovered I couldn't get a wrench on it to turn it enough to tighten up the washer.

I got this 3/8 drive 15/16" crowfoot, did a little grinding on it as needed, and was able to use it to turn the quick change assy enough to tighten up the washer.

No leaks at all, but I'm keeping a close eye on it.

BZBMGMO 15/16" Crowfoot Nut Wrench Opening,3/8" Drive Crowfoot Wrench https://a.co/d/8hJwu28

 

[Tdj2591]

I prefer the "Drainzit" hose.

Amazon.com

View attachment 68678

I have the same oil leak problem. Didn’t know the Drainzit existed. Will be ordering one soon!

 

[rodhotter]

its a POS remove + put a pipe with a cap on it long enough for a clean EZE oil change or buy the dedicated hose. used a pipe on girlfriends LTX 42 but bought the hose for my CC30H + tied it up away from the hot engine. there are various length hoses with a metal closure on them

 

[kyis]

I have a CC with a Kohler twin with the pull & twist drain valve. It seem as though oil is slo leaking out once the engine is running with heated oil and I’d obviously like to fix this. There are lots of YouTube videos associated with this but there’s something that I’m not understanding and I’m hoping someone knows and can enlighten me!

The EZ drain device is attached with a 13/16 silver nut and if I try to turn it with my hand (not a wrench) the nut will move loosely about 1/8 of an inch to the left or right.

How could that be???

Tighten I just loose

 

[CaptFerd]

I have a CC with a Kohler twin with the pull & twist drain valve. It seem as though oil is slo leaking out once the engine is running with heated oil and I’d obviously like to fix this. There are lots of YouTube videos associated with this but there’s something that I’m not understanding and I’m hoping someone knows and can enlighten me!

The EZ drain device is attached with a 13/16 silver nut and if I try to turn it with my hand (not a wrench) the nut will move loosely about 1/8 of an inch to the left or right.

How could that be???

Check out this Video for the fix.

 

[TobyU]

I have a CC with a Kohler twin with the pull & twist drain valve. It seem as though oil is slo leaking out once the engine is running with heated oil and I’d obviously like to fix this. There are lots of YouTube videos associated with this but there’s something that I’m not understanding and I’m hoping someone knows and can enlighten me!

The EZ drain device is attached with a 13/16 silver nut and if I try to turn it with my hand (not a wrench) the nut will move loosely about 1/8 of an inch to the left or right.

How could that be???

I have been complaining for 20 years about these drain valves. Not about the valve itself because they're fine if they're installing correctly but the fact is 80% of them I see are not tight from the factory.
Technically, I don't think the factory actually installs them as I think Briggs ships these in a separate package and they just have a pipe plug in the hole and the people who put the mower together and install the engine on the mower install the quick train but regardless they are almost always barely threaded in only a few threads nowhere near up into the thread sealant and as far as they should be.

As I said between 8 and 9 out of 10.... I can grab with my fingers and unscrew completely if I wish to.

This is completely ridiculous and unacceptable.

So every time you have one of these make sure you tighten it.
Be careful you don't break the plastic as it's easier to tighten if you're doing an oil change so you can remove the plastic from it all together I just pulling a little harder after you twist it and then you can use a socket and mini situations on the aluminum body of it.

 

[TobyU]

It won’t tighten but will move slightly to the left & right, it the strangest thing!
I guess Loctite or blue devil tape would be best & id feel more secure with a pipe & cap than a hose that could fail. Thanks

Oh, it will tighten. You just are stuck in a little spot there where a rock back and forth a little bit. It will take more effort to remove it all the way out or to tighten it all the way up but it will tighten.

 

[TobyU]

The drain hex is not a nut persay but more like a hex head screw. Its more like a stud with a hex in the middle. The hex is physically solid part of the 3/8"-18 NPTF nipple. Most of these oil drains are either too small threaded or the equipment tapered hole is too large. Teflon tape, pipe putty, or Loctite must be used to secure them.

As said most are so close the deck deck that the engine must loosen so a deep well socket be used. Note the two pins are a lot of the times also in the way so even a socket won't go on. One poorly designed device in my opinion.

Many of them are too close to the deck unless you have a very thin walled socket but even that won't work in all of them but it's way too much work to loosen the bolts and lift the engine up and then also risks the engine bolts loosening up later so a large pair of channel locks will work just fine as long as you're careful and don't slip and hit the plastic.

 

[TobyU]

.

Good explanation and I’m definitely going to get rid of the plastic quick drain, a more appropriately name would be EZ Leak!

Going to use 3/8 galvanized pipe, a 2 inch nipple, a street elbow, nipple and a cap.
it will then be piped solid, against the frame and pointing straight down. Thanks!

I've never had a single problem with one of them after they were tightened up.
They do make it much easier to drain the oil the little standard pipe plug some of them have but it is far better to put the galvanized pipe into it and put an elbow right at the end so you can drain it right into an empty milk jug or something.

 

[Poodlehead]

Many of them are too close to the deck unless you have a very thin walled socket but even that won't work in all of them

My frame was in the way for even a socket on my machine, but grinding/tweaking the 15/16" crowfoot worked real well for me... The pipe with the elbow and plug seems like a more robust solution.