Cub Cadet EZ oil drain pull & twist

TobyU

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Threads
0
Messages
524
.

Good explanation and I’m definitely going to get rid of the plastic quick drain, a more appropriately name would be EZ Leak!

Going to use 3/8 galvanized pipe, a 2 inch nipple, a street elbow, nipple and a cap.
it will then be piped solid, against the frame and pointing straight down. Thanks!
I've never had a single problem with one of them after they were tightened up.
They do make it much easier to drain the oil the little standard pipe plug some of them have but it is far better too
 

Rickcin

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Threads
73
Messages
274
Ah just being lazy. Even a metal pipe that isn't too long needs the engine lifted up so the pipe wrench grabs the pipe for tightening but of you probably use the elbow to tighten.
I did not have to mess with the engine attachment in order to install my piped drain with a ball valve.
 

Rickcin

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Threads
73
Messages
274
I've never had a single problem with one of them after they were tightened up.
They do make it much easier to drain the oil the little standard pipe plug some of them have but it is far better to put the galvanized pipe into it and put an elbow right at the end so you can drain it right into an empty milk jug or something.
Mine is now set up with a stainless steel ball valve, secure and easy to change the oil, I even have a threaded plastic fitting attached to a plastic hose.
 

TobyU

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Threads
0
Messages
524
Mine is now set up with a stainless steel ball valve, secure and easy to change the oil, I even have a threaded plastic fitting attached to a plastic hose.
Sounds like it works well. There are a number of ways to do it. Even when people just go the pipe route, you just have to make the pipe just long enough so it sticks out just past the frame if you're going to put a cap on the pipe which works just fine or you can put a 90° elbow at the end of the pipe so it will be just past the frame and then you can put a small pipe plug into the end of that so it's already facing down when you pull the plug out to drain it.

When you get the pipe length just right, you can easily screw it in from the elbow.
If it happens to be some odd length, which it usually isn't, that small pipe is quite easy to thread. In fact, many of the big box stores have a pipe threading machine right there and will thread it for you.
He just have to get your measurements very accurate and take into consideration the pipe has to be a little bit longer because the threads will go into the elbow if you use one of those.

I find it simpler to just use a straight piece of pipe and put a cap on the end and that's what most machines that have come in over the years that have had this done have.

I see that the ball valve is more convenient but on some of the commonly available ones that are for plumbing, I would prefer to short the handle on them because there are people out there who put their mowers into situations where it could actually open up and start dumping oil.
I'd rather have something that I have to actually grab a wrench to loosen up.
 

Rickcin

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Threads
73
Messages
274
Sounds like it works well. There are a number of ways to do it. Even when people just go the pipe route, you just have to make the pipe just long enough so it sticks out just past the frame if you're going to put a cap on the pipe which works just fine or you can put a 90° elbow at the end of the pipe so it will be just past the frame and then you can put a small pipe plug into the end of that so it's already facing down when you pull the plug out to drain it.

When you get the pipe length just right, you can easily screw it in from the elbow.
If it happens to be some odd length, which it usually isn't, that small pipe is quite easy to thread. In fact, many of the big box stores have a pipe threading machine right there and will thread it for you.
He just have to get your measurements very accurate and take into consideration the pipe has to be a little bit longer because the threads will go into the elbow if you use one of those.

I find it simpler to just use a straight piece of pipe and put a cap on the end and that's what most machines that have come in over the years that have had this done have.

I see that the ball valve is more convenient but on some of the commonly available ones that are for plumbing, I would prefer to short the handle on them because there are people out there who put their mowers into situations where it could actually open up and start dumping oil.
I'd rather have something that I have to actually grab a wrench to loosen up.
I have a threaded cap with teflon tape that’s tightened with a 1/2 inch open end wrench❗
 

TobyU

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2014
Threads
0
Messages
524
I have a threaded cap with teflon tape that’s tightened with a 1/2 inch open end wrench❗
That's the style I like. Or put a 90° on the end and put the plug facing the ground so you can just hold a milk jug right up to it and drain your oil.
 

Rickcin

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2012
Threads
73
Messages
274
That's the style I like. Or put a 90° on the end and put the plug facing the ground so you can just hold a milk jug right up to it and drain your oil.
The plug is facing down and I even have a threaded plastic fitting with plastic tubing connected for draining the oil.
 
Top