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Cub Cadet EZ oil drain pull & twist

#1

R

Rickcin

I have a CC with a Kohler twin with the pull & twist drain valve. It seem as though oil is slo leaking out once the engine is running with heated oil and I’d obviously like to fix this. There are lots of YouTube videos associated with this but there’s something that I’m not understanding and I’m hoping someone knows and can enlighten me!

The EZ drain device is attached with a 13/16 silver nut and if I try to turn it with my hand (not a wrench) the nut will move loosely about 1/8 of an inch to the left or right.

How could that be???

Attachments





#2

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

What you are seeing if the normal behavior of those drain valves. They have a bad habit of leaking to the point of destroying engines when they come apart while running. And the hex has a bad habit of hitting the frame when you try to tighten them. In the long run you maybe better off replacing it with an actual drain hose. Or even a pipe with a plug on the end that clears the frame for draining.


#3

R

Rickcin

ILENGINE said:
What you are seeing if the normal behavior of those drain valves. They have a bad habit of leaking to the point of destroying engines when they come apart while running. And the hex has a bad habit of hitting the frame when you try to tighten them. In the long run you maybe better off replacing it with an actual drain hose. Or even a pipe with a plug on the end that clears the frame for draining.
Click to expand...
Exactly! I was thinking a piece of galvanized pipe with either a street elbow and a plug or a straight pipe and a plug.
Can you explain why that hex nut will move back & forth by hand? That makes no sense to me!


#4

StarTech

StarTech

Basically it is just loose and should be tighten up. But I remove them during oil changes, clean all oil off and apply Loctite blue left it setup and then install the drain assy again, making it is tighten up. But as said it is better to remove and install a pipe or drain hose. Again using Loctite blue to seal the threads.


#5

R

Rickcin

StarTech said:
Basically it is just loose and should be tighten up. But I remove them during oil changes, clean all oil off and apply Loctite blue left it setup and then install the drain assy again, making it is tighten up. But as said it is better to remove and install a pipe or drain hose. Again using Loctite blue to seal the threads.
Click to expand...
It won’t tighten but will move slightly to the left & right, it the strangest thing!
I guess Loctite or blue devil tape would be best & id feel more secure with a pipe & cap than a hose that could fail. Thanks


#6

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

Rickcin said:
It won’t tighten but will move slightly to the left & right, it the strangest thing!
I guess Loctite or blue devil tape would be best & id feel more secure with a pipe & cap than a hose that could fail. Thanks
Click to expand...
Take a small chisel and hammer and tighten the drain nut by tapping it tighter. These drains are often loose when I go to change a customer’s oil.


#7

StarTech

StarTech

The drain hex is not a nut persay but more like a hex head screw. Its more like a stud with a hex in the middle. The hex is physically solid part of the 3/8"-18 NPTF nipple. Most of these oil drains are either too small threaded or the equipment tapered hole is too large. Teflon tape, pipe putty, or Loctite must be used to secure them.

As said most are so close the deck deck that the engine must loosen so a deep well socket be used. Note the two pins are a lot of the times also in the way so even a socket won't go on. One poorly designed device in my opinion.


#8

R

Rickcin

StarTech said:
Basically it is just loose and should be tighten up. But I remove them during oil changes, clean all oil off and apply Loctite blue left it setup and then install the drain assy again, making it is tighten up. But as said it is better to remove and install a pipe or drain hose. Again using Loctite blue to seal the threads.
Click to expand...
.
StarTech said:
The drain hex is not a nut persay but more like a hex head screw. Its more like a stud with a hex in the middle. The hex is physically solid part of the 3/8"-18 NPTF nipple. Most of these oil drains are either too small threaded or the equipment tapered hole is too large. Teflon tape, pipe putty, or Loctite must be used to secure them.

As said most are so close the deck deck that the engine must loosen so a deep well socket be used. Note the two pins are a lot of the times also in the way so even a socket won't go on. One poorly designed device in my opinion.
Click to expand...
Good explanation and I’m definitely going to get rid of the plastic quick drain, a more appropriately name would be EZ Leak!

Going to use 3/8 galvanized pipe, a 2 inch nipple, a street elbow, nipple and a cap.
it will then be piped solid, against the frame and pointing straight down. Thanks!


#9

R

Rickcin

StarTech said:
The drain hex is not a nut persay but more like a hex head screw. Its more like a stud with a hex in the middle. The hex is physically solid part of the 3/8"-18 NPTF nipple. Most of these oil drains are either too small threaded or the equipment tapered hole is too large. Teflon tape, pipe putty, or Loctite must be used to secure them.

As said most are so close the deck deck that the engine must loosen so a deep well socket be used. Note the two pins are a lot of the times also in the way so even a socket won't go on. One poorly designed device in my opinion.
Click to expand...
Also, does it matter if the piping is black pipe, galvanized or stainless steel?


#10

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

All will work. Black pipe is normally for Natural Gas or Propane. Galvanized more for water and stainless for caustic materials. But since there is no pressure all are find. I normally use black pipe.


#11

R

Rickcin

ILENGINE said:
All will work. Black pipe is normally for Natural Gas or Propane. Galvanized more for water and stainless for caustic materials. But since there is no pressure all are find. I normally use black pipe.
Click to expand...
Thanks again, I really appreciate your advice😎


#12

R

Rickcin

Rickcin said:
Thanks again, I really appreciate your advice😎
Click to expand...
Now I’m wondering if I could add a ball valve for easy draining and if I could use this with galvanized pipe?

Attachments





#13

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

As long as it doesn't leak and doesn't get bumped to the open position while the engine is running.


#14

R

Rickcin

ILENGINE said:
As long as it doesn't leak and doesn't get bumped to the open position while the engine is running.
Click to expand...
I was going to cap it for added protection.


#15

R

Rickcin

Rickcin said:
I was going to cap it for added protection.
Click to expand...
I replaced that cheap plastic easy drain that came standard on my Cub Cadet XT2 lawn tractor. The day after I changed the oil and filter, there was a puddle of oil on the shed floor from that plastic drain valve.
I now have it piped with 3/8 inch stainless with a good quality ball valve and I have the handle locked in place with a strong zip tie.IMG_1766.jpegIMG_1767.jpeg


#16

D

driz

I am pretty sure you can take that nut off the lever and reorient it so it’s straight up when closed. I did something similar with an identical valve to keep from smacking into the shutoff for my outside garden faucet.


#17

R

Rickcin

driz said:
I am pretty sure you can take that nut off the lever and reorient it so it’s straight up when closed. I did something similar with an identical valve to keep from smacking into the shutoff for my outside garden faucet.
Click to expand...
You are probably correct, I would have to be very careful when doing that though.


#18

R

Rickcin

Rickcin said:
You are probably correct, I would have to be very careful when doing that though.
Click to expand...
I took a closer look at the photo of the valve and the handle cannot be positioned
Rickcin said:
You are probably correct, I would have to be very careful when doing that though.
Click to expand...
After an enlarged view of the photo of the valve, you can see a nub on the valve body and the handle will only work in that one position.
I could just remove the handle but Im thinking it’s fine as is and will not be a problem.


#19

7394

7394

Rickcin said:
I have the handle locked in place with a strong
Click to expand...
Looks good, leave the locking Zip tie on it. The handle orientation would be my concern..


#20

StarTech

StarTech

Another option was
1715860721272.png
or
1715860756937.png
Probably still would need to loosen the engine to install either one but they are better than the plastic one.


#21

R

Rickcin

StarTech said:
Another option was
View attachment 68664
or
View attachment 68665
Probably still would need to loosen the engine to install either one but they are better than the plastic one.
Click to expand...
Would not have been able to turn them to install, too close to the frame otherwise they would have to lowered below the frame.
What I have should work well, can’t imagine why not?


#22

7394

7394

StarTech said:
Another option was
View attachment 68664
or
View attachment 68665
Probably still would need to loosen the engine to install either one but they are better than the plastic one.
Click to expand...
Those "look" sturdy, but still have same tiny 0-ring inside that leaks. No thanks.


#23

ILENGINE

ILENGINE

7394 said:
Those "look" sturdy, but still have same tiny 0-ring inside that leaks. No thanks.
Click to expand...
I have mowers that come into the shop from the late 90's with those style of drains that Startech recommended and the still don't leak. Mostly seen on mowers with Kawasaki engines


#24

7394

7394

10-4. I have seen some leak.

I would never lift an engine to install that type of drain, I know that.


#25

StarTech

StarTech

7394 said:
10-4. I have seen some leak.

I would never lift an engine to install that type of drain, I know that.
Click to expand...
Ah just being lazy. Even a metal pipe that isn't too long needs the engine lifted up so the pipe wrench grabs the pipe for tightening but of you probably use the elbow to tighten.


#26

J

JD_Driver

7394 said:
Those "look" sturdy, but still have same tiny 0-ring inside that leaks. No thanks.
Click to expand...
I be had on my ExMark since 2006. Zero leaks!


#27

SARG

SARG

I prefer the "Drainzit" hose.
drainzit.jpg


#28

T

theKiwi

Rickcin said:
Going to use 3/8 galvanized pipe, a 2 inch nipple, a street elbow, nipple and a cap.
it will then be piped solid, against the frame and pointing straight down. Thanks!
Click to expand...
That what I did to my Z-48 at the first oil change I gave it in 2011 - I didn't like the look of that hose and mystery fitting on the end of it.

Roger


#29

P

Peva

SARG said:
I prefer the "Drainzit" hose.
View attachment 68678
Click to expand...

Do they also have an uncircumcised version? 😁 👍


#30

B

Brucewayne

It looks like some lawn mower manufacturers have found yet another way to guarantee more sales. Who in their right mind would leave your car oil drain plug out and then drive their car around?


#31

P

Poodlehead

I changed the oil recently in my newly acquired mower and I was able to unscrew that entire quick change assy. Not at all good!

I cleaned it up, put Teflon tape on the threads, an aluminum washer that typically goes on oil drain plugs, and screwed it back in. That's when I discovered I couldn't get a wrench on it to turn it enough to tighten up the washer.

I got this 3/8 drive 15/16" crowfoot, did a little grinding on it as needed, and was able to use it to turn the quick change assy enough to tighten up the washer.

No leaks at all, but I'm keeping a close eye on it.

BZBMGMO 15/16" Crowfoot Nut Wrench Opening,3/8" Drive Crowfoot Wrench https://a.co/d/8hJwu28


#32

T

Tdj2591

SARG said:
I prefer the "Drainzit" hose.
View attachment 68678
Click to expand...
I have the same oil leak problem. Didn’t know the Drainzit existed. Will be ordering one soon!


#33

R

rodhotter

its a POS remove + put a pipe with a cap on it long enough for a clean EZE oil change or buy the dedicated hose. used a pipe on girlfriends LTX 42 but bought the hose for my CC30H + tied it up away from the hot engine. there are various length hoses with a metal closure on them


#34

K

kyis

Rickcin said:
I have a CC with a Kohler twin with the pull & twist drain valve. It seem as though oil is slo leaking out once the engine is running with heated oil and I’d obviously like to fix this. There are lots of YouTube videos associated with this but there’s something that I’m not understanding and I’m hoping someone knows and can enlighten me!

The EZ drain device is attached with a 13/16 silver nut and if I try to turn it with my hand (not a wrench) the nut will move loosely about 1/8 of an inch to the left or right.

How could that be???
Click to expand...
Tighten I just loose


#35

C

CaptFerd

Rickcin said:
I have a CC with a Kohler twin with the pull & twist drain valve. It seem as though oil is slo leaking out once the engine is running with heated oil and I’d obviously like to fix this. There are lots of YouTube videos associated with this but there’s something that I’m not understanding and I’m hoping someone knows and can enlighten me!

The EZ drain device is attached with a 13/16 silver nut and if I try to turn it with my hand (not a wrench) the nut will move loosely about 1/8 of an inch to the left or right.

How could that be???
Click to expand...
Check out this Video for the fix.


#36

T

TobyU

Rickcin said:
I have a CC with a Kohler twin with the pull & twist drain valve. It seem as though oil is slo leaking out once the engine is running with heated oil and I’d obviously like to fix this. There are lots of YouTube videos associated with this but there’s something that I’m not understanding and I’m hoping someone knows and can enlighten me!

The EZ drain device is attached with a 13/16 silver nut and if I try to turn it with my hand (not a wrench) the nut will move loosely about 1/8 of an inch to the left or right.

How could that be???
Click to expand...
I have been complaining for 20 years about these drain valves. Not about the valve itself because they're fine if they're installing correctly but the fact is 80% of them I see are not tight from the factory.
Technically, I don't think the factory actually installs them as I think Briggs ships these in a separate package and they just have a pipe plug in the hole and the people who put the mower together and install the engine on the mower install the quick train but regardless they are almost always barely threaded in only a few threads nowhere near up into the thread sealant and as far as they should be.

As I said between 8 and 9 out of 10.... I can grab with my fingers and unscrew completely if I wish to.

This is completely ridiculous and unacceptable.

So every time you have one of these make sure you tighten it.
Be careful you don't break the plastic as it's easier to tighten if you're doing an oil change so you can remove the plastic from it all together I just pulling a little harder after you twist it and then you can use a socket and mini situations on the aluminum body of it.


#37

T

TobyU

Rickcin said:
It won’t tighten but will move slightly to the left & right, it the strangest thing!
I guess Loctite or blue devil tape would be best & id feel more secure with a pipe & cap than a hose that could fail. Thanks
Click to expand...
Oh, it will tighten. You just are stuck in a little spot there where a rock back and forth a little bit. It will take more effort to remove it all the way out or to tighten it all the way up but it will tighten.


#38

T

TobyU

StarTech said:
The drain hex is not a nut persay but more like a hex head screw. Its more like a stud with a hex in the middle. The hex is physically solid part of the 3/8"-18 NPTF nipple. Most of these oil drains are either too small threaded or the equipment tapered hole is too large. Teflon tape, pipe putty, or Loctite must be used to secure them.

As said most are so close the deck deck that the engine must loosen so a deep well socket be used. Note the two pins are a lot of the times also in the way so even a socket won't go on. One poorly designed device in my opinion.
Click to expand...
Many of them are too close to the deck unless you have a very thin walled socket but even that won't work in all of them but it's way too much work to loosen the bolts and lift the engine up and then also risks the engine bolts loosening up later so a large pair of channel locks will work just fine as long as you're careful and don't slip and hit the plastic.


#39

T

TobyU

Rickcin said:
.

Good explanation and I’m definitely going to get rid of the plastic quick drain, a more appropriately name would be EZ Leak!

Going to use 3/8 galvanized pipe, a 2 inch nipple, a street elbow, nipple and a cap.
it will then be piped solid, against the frame and pointing straight down. Thanks!
Click to expand...
I've never had a single problem with one of them after they were tightened up.
They do make it much easier to drain the oil the little standard pipe plug some of them have but it is far better to put the galvanized pipe into it and put an elbow right at the end so you can drain it right into an empty milk jug or something.


#40

P

Poodlehead

TobyU said:
Many of them are too close to the deck unless you have a very thin walled socket but even that won't work in all of them
Click to expand...
My frame was in the way for even a socket on my machine, but grinding/tweaking the 15/16" crowfoot worked real well for me... The pipe with the elbow and plug seems like a more robust solution.


#41

T

TobyU

Rickcin said:
.

Good explanation and I’m definitely going to get rid of the plastic quick drain, a more appropriately name would be EZ Leak!

Going to use 3/8 galvanized pipe, a 2 inch nipple, a street elbow, nipple and a cap.
it will then be piped solid, against the frame and pointing straight down. Thanks!
Click to expand...
I've never had a single problem with one of them after they were tightened up.
They do make it much easier to drain the oil the little standard pipe plug some of them have but it is far better too


#42

R

Rickcin

StarTech said:
Ah just being lazy. Even a metal pipe that isn't too long needs the engine lifted up so the pipe wrench grabs the pipe for tightening but of you probably use the elbow to tighten.
Click to expand...
I did not have to mess with the engine attachment in order to install my piped drain with a ball valve.


#43

R

Rickcin

TobyU said:
I've never had a single problem with one of them after they were tightened up.
They do make it much easier to drain the oil the little standard pipe plug some of them have but it is far better to put the galvanized pipe into it and put an elbow right at the end so you can drain it right into an empty milk jug or something.
Click to expand...
Mine is now set up with a stainless steel ball valve, secure and easy to change the oil, I even have a threaded plastic fitting attached to a plastic hose.


#44

T

TobyU

Rickcin said:
Mine is now set up with a stainless steel ball valve, secure and easy to change the oil, I even have a threaded plastic fitting attached to a plastic hose.
Click to expand...
Sounds like it works well. There are a number of ways to do it. Even when people just go the pipe route, you just have to make the pipe just long enough so it sticks out just past the frame if you're going to put a cap on the pipe which works just fine or you can put a 90° elbow at the end of the pipe so it will be just past the frame and then you can put a small pipe plug into the end of that so it's already facing down when you pull the plug out to drain it.

When you get the pipe length just right, you can easily screw it in from the elbow.
If it happens to be some odd length, which it usually isn't, that small pipe is quite easy to thread. In fact, many of the big box stores have a pipe threading machine right there and will thread it for you.
He just have to get your measurements very accurate and take into consideration the pipe has to be a little bit longer because the threads will go into the elbow if you use one of those.

I find it simpler to just use a straight piece of pipe and put a cap on the end and that's what most machines that have come in over the years that have had this done have.

I see that the ball valve is more convenient but on some of the commonly available ones that are for plumbing, I would prefer to short the handle on them because there are people out there who put their mowers into situations where it could actually open up and start dumping oil.
I'd rather have something that I have to actually grab a wrench to loosen up.


#45

7394

7394

(y)


#46

R

Rickcin

TobyU said:
Sounds like it works well. There are a number of ways to do it. Even when people just go the pipe route, you just have to make the pipe just long enough so it sticks out just past the frame if you're going to put a cap on the pipe which works just fine or you can put a 90° elbow at the end of the pipe so it will be just past the frame and then you can put a small pipe plug into the end of that so it's already facing down when you pull the plug out to drain it.

When you get the pipe length just right, you can easily screw it in from the elbow.
If it happens to be some odd length, which it usually isn't, that small pipe is quite easy to thread. In fact, many of the big box stores have a pipe threading machine right there and will thread it for you.
He just have to get your measurements very accurate and take into consideration the pipe has to be a little bit longer because the threads will go into the elbow if you use one of those.

I find it simpler to just use a straight piece of pipe and put a cap on the end and that's what most machines that have come in over the years that have had this done have.

I see that the ball valve is more convenient but on some of the commonly available ones that are for plumbing, I would prefer to short the handle on them because there are people out there who put their mowers into situations where it could actually open up and start dumping oil.
I'd rather have something that I have to actually grab a wrench to loosen up.
Click to expand...
I have a threaded cap with teflon tape that’s tightened with a 1/2 inch open end wrench❗️


#47

T

TobyU

Rickcin said:
I have a threaded cap with teflon tape that’s tightened with a 1/2 inch open end wrench❗️
Click to expand...
That's the style I like. Or put a 90° on the end and put the plug facing the ground so you can just hold a milk jug right up to it and drain your oil.


#48

R

Rickcin

TobyU said:
That's the style I like. Or put a 90° on the end and put the plug facing the ground so you can just hold a milk jug right up to it and drain your oil.
Click to expand...
The plug is facing down and I even have a threaded plastic fitting with plastic tubing connected for draining the oil.


#49

I

Idaho

There is a kit for this fix. It screws in where to plastic fitting was, has a drain hose with a screw valve on the end. Check Amazon. I've replaced a couple of them now. This is a real weakness in this Cub setup.


#50

R

Rickcin

Idaho said:
There is a kit for this fix. It screws in where to plastic fitting was, has a drain hose with a screw valve on the end. Check Amazon. I've replaced a couple of them now. This is a real weakness in this Cub setup.
Click to expand...
Mine has been fixed and I preferred to pipe it with SS pipe rather than a rubber hose that has a shorter life but that’s just me!


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