Cub Cadet EZ oil drain pull & twist

[Rickcin]

I have a CC with a Kohler twin with the pull & twist drain valve. It seem as though oil is slo leaking out once the engine is running with heated oil and I’d obviously like to fix this. There are lots of YouTube videos associated with this but there’s something that I’m not understanding and I’m hoping someone knows and can enlighten me!

The EZ drain device is attached with a 13/16 silver nut and if I try to turn it with my hand (not a wrench) the nut will move loosely about 1/8 of an inch to the left or right.

How could that be???

 

[ILENGINE]

What you are seeing if the normal behavior of those drain valves. They have a bad habit of leaking to the point of destroying engines when they come apart while running. And the hex has a bad habit of hitting the frame when you try to tighten them. In the long run you maybe better off replacing it with an actual drain hose. Or even a pipe with a plug on the end that clears the frame for draining.

 

[Rickcin]

What you are seeing if the normal behavior of those drain valves. They have a bad habit of leaking to the point of destroying engines when they come apart while running. And the hex has a bad habit of hitting the frame when you try to tighten them. In the long run you maybe better off replacing it with an actual drain hose. Or even a pipe with a plug on the end that clears the frame for draining.

Exactly! I was thinking a piece of galvanized pipe with either a street elbow and a plug or a straight pipe and a plug.
Can you explain why that hex nut will move back & forth by hand? That makes no sense to me!

 

[StarTech]

Basically it is just loose and should be tighten up. But I remove them during oil changes, clean all oil off and apply Loctite blue left it setup and then install the drain assy again, making it is tighten up. But as said it is better to remove and install a pipe or drain hose. Again using Loctite blue to seal the threads.

 

[Rickcin]

Basically it is just loose and should be tighten up. But I remove them during oil changes, clean all oil off and apply Loctite blue left it setup and then install the drain assy again, making it is tighten up. But as said it is better to remove and install a pipe or drain hose. Again using Loctite blue to seal the threads.

It won’t tighten but will move slightly to the left & right, it the strangest thing!
I guess Loctite or blue devil tape would be best & id feel more secure with a pipe & cap than a hose that could fail. Thanks

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

It won’t tighten but will move slightly to the left & right, it the strangest thing!
I guess Loctite or blue devil tape would be best & id feel more secure with a pipe & cap than a hose that could fail. Thanks

Take a small chisel and hammer and tighten the drain nut by tapping it tighter. These drains are often loose when I go to change a customer’s oil.

 

[StarTech]

The drain hex is not a nut persay but more like a hex head screw. Its more like a stud with a hex in the middle. The hex is physically solid part of the 3/8"-18 NPTF nipple. Most of these oil drains are either too small threaded or the equipment tapered hole is too large. Teflon tape, pipe putty, or Loctite must be used to secure them.

As said most are so close the deck deck that the engine must loosen so a deep well socket be used. Note the two pins are a lot of the times also in the way so even a socket won't go on. One poorly designed device in my opinion.

 

[Rickcin]

Basically it is just loose and should be tighten up. But I remove them during oil changes, clean all oil off and apply Loctite blue left it setup and then install the drain assy again, making it is tighten up. But as said it is better to remove and install a pipe or drain hose. Again using Loctite blue to seal the threads.

.

The drain hex is not a nut persay but more like a hex head screw. Its more like a stud with a hex in the middle. The hex is physically solid part of the 3/8"-18 NPTF nipple. Most of these oil drains are either too small threaded or the equipment tapered hole is too large. Teflon tape, pipe putty, or Loctite must be used to secure them.

As said most are so close the deck deck that the engine must loosen so a deep well socket be used. Note the two pins are a lot of the times also in the way so even a socket won't go on. One poorly designed device in my opinion.

Good explanation and I’m definitely going to get rid of the plastic quick drain, a more appropriately name would be EZ Leak!

Going to use 3/8 galvanized pipe, a 2 inch nipple, a street elbow, nipple and a cap.
it will then be piped solid, against the frame and pointing straight down. Thanks!

 

[Rickcin]

The drain hex is not a nut persay but more like a hex head screw. Its more like a stud with a hex in the middle. The hex is physically solid part of the 3/8"-18 NPTF nipple. Most of these oil drains are either too small threaded or the equipment tapered hole is too large. Teflon tape, pipe putty, or Loctite must be used to secure them.

As said most are so close the deck deck that the engine must loosen so a deep well socket be used. Note the two pins are a lot of the times also in the way so even a socket won't go on. One poorly designed device in my opinion.

Also, does it matter if the piping is black pipe, galvanized or stainless steel?

 

[ILENGINE]

All will work. Black pipe is normally for Natural Gas or Propane. Galvanized more for water and stainless for caustic materials. But since there is no pressure all are find. I normally use black pipe.