Correct connector for fuel shutoff solenoid

[StarTech]

Some people think they can get something for basically nothing, patch it up, and resell it to someone else just to pass the problems along. I just repaired one mower this rigged up mowers and currently fighting with a 3010 UTV where the previous so called repairman rigged nearly everything up just to sell it to an unsuspecting person. I am already $2000 into the repairs but I thought I was about until I found that he glued the carburetor together.

Btw to clean a steel only bowl use Muriatic Acid or use electrolysis with white vinegar solution. First one is fast although it can produce toxic fumes and the second is slower but less dangerous.

 

[Elkins45]

Some people think they can get something for basically nothing, patch it up, and resell it to someone else just to pass the problems along. I just repaired one mower this rigged up mowers and currently fighting with a 3010 UTV where the previous so called repairman rigged nearly everything up just to sell it to an unsuspecting person. I am already $2000 into the repairs but I thought I was about until I found that he glued the carburetor together.

Btw to clean a steel only bowl use Muriatic Acid or use electrolysis with white vinegar solution. First one is fast although it can produce toxic fumes and the second is slower but less dangerous.

Not planning on selling it. I bought it for the deck and transmission. Getting the engine running would just be a bonus because I could use the mower itself rather than stripping it to fix my other one. I’m all for the option that means less work for me.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Some people think they can get something for basically nothing, patch it up, and resell it to someone else just to pass the problems along. I just repaired one mower this rigged up mowers and currently fighting with a 3010 UTV where the previous so called repairman rigged nearly everything up just to sell it to an unsuspecting person. I am already $2000 into the repairs but I thought I was about until I found that he glued the carburetor together.

Btw to clean a steel only bowl use Muriatic Acid or use electrolysis with white vinegar solution. First one is fast although it can produce toxic fumes and the second is slower but less dangerous.

I use soda blaster on bowls.
Works a treat and of course washes off in water, better in hot water .

 

[bertsmobile1]

Not planning on selling it. I bought it for the deck and transmission. Getting the engine running would just be a bonus because I could use the mower itself rather than stripping it to fix my other one. I’m all for the option that means less work for me.

Simple solution is to swap your carb for this one and see if the engine runs
IF yes then stuff an oily rag down the inlet manifold and either sell the engine as "has been run" or shove it in the back of your shed.
The solenoid can be replaced with a carb bowl bolt if it is used to hold the bowl on or a dob of silicon if it is a side mount one.
You can chop the plunger off but that destroys a $ 50 part or you can activate it with a square transistor battery
I test them with one of those 9 Volt batteries and it will hold it open for a couple of days .
TO connect it to the solenoid you can just use a pair of small aligator clips. bare wires & some heat shrink
I use some of those thin patch leads with an aligator clip on both ends for testing

 

[StarTech]

Simple solution is to swap your carb for this one and see if the engine runs
IF yes then stuff an oily rag down the inlet manifold and either sell the engine as "has been run" or shove it in the back of your shed.
The solenoid can be replaced with a carb bowl bolt if it is used to hold the bowl on or a dob of silicon if it is a side mount one.
You can chop the plunger off but that destroys a $ 50 part or you can activate it with a square transistor battery
I test them with one of those 9 Volt batteries and it will hold it open for a couple of days .
TO connect it to the solenoid you can just use a pair of small aligator clips. bare wires & some heat shrink
I use some of those thin patch leads with an aligator clip on both ends for testing

Kinda wish the solenoid was only $50 as Briggs no longer has the solenoid available and their solution is replace the whole carburetor assembly; although, there is a fuel bowl kit available although not noted in the IPL.


Fuel bowl kit came with the solenoid the last time I brought them.

 

[slomo]

Solder the wires on for free. Not puppy dog surgery here guys. No need for special connectors. Just a lawn mower....

Better yet, snip the solenoid plunger and use a fuel shut off valve. Never mess with this again. Another free tech tip Friday.

 

[Elkins45]

Simple solution is to swap your carb for this one and see if the engine runs
IF yes then stuff an oily rag down the inlet manifold and either sell the engine as "has been run" or shove it in the back of your shed.
The solenoid can be replaced with a carb bowl bolt if it is used to hold the bowl on or a dob of silicon if it is a side mount one.
You can chop the plunger off but that destroys a $ 50 part or you can activate it with a square transistor battery
I test them with one of those 9 Volt batteries and it will hold it open for a couple of days .
TO connect it to the solenoid you can just use a pair of small aligator clips. bare wires & some heat shrink
I use some of those thin patch leads with an aligator clip on both ends for testing

I can’t just swap carbs because of the mangled connector. I’m either going to have to repair or hard wire the solenoid or I‘m going to have to disable it. I’m on the lookout for a short bolt with the correct threads just as soon as I find or grind down a thin wrench to turn off the solenoid.

I‘m assuming the engine doesn’t run when the solenoid isn’t energized, right? Otherwise why have it?

 

[bertsmobile1]

Yes the plunger is spring loaded out & the power pulls it back in .
The need for a thin wrench tells me your solenoid holds the bowl on the carb in which case you use a carb nut from an earlier non solenoid model .
As you are just testing the engine , the mangled connetor does not matter I mentioned two methods to make a temporary connection for testing purposes.

 

[Elkins45]

Yes the plunger is spring loaded out & the power pulls it back in .
The need for a thin wrench tells me your solenoid holds the bowl on the carb in which case you use a carb nut from an earlier non solenoid model .
As you are just testing the engine , the mangled connetor does not matter I mentioned two methods to make a temporary connection for testing purposes.

I managed to remove the solenoid and it turned out to be a moot point. The plunger was so rusted it wouldn’t move even with pliers and a dose of PB Blaster so I replaced it with a bolt. I’m going to reinstall the carb tomorrow morning and see what happens. Thanks for all the assistance.

 

[sgkent]

find another carb in a bone yard

and it did fire when he shot it full of ether.