Correct connector for fuel shutoff solenoid

[Elkins45]

I picked up a used parts mower last week and the guy said it just needed a carb cleaning (ha) and it did fire when he shot it full of ether. When I started removing the carb I discovered the wiring connector to the carb solenoid was mangled and one of the wires is broken off. I downloaded the parts diagram and I can’t figure out what I need to replace. Which of these contains the carb connector?

Better yet, is there a way to just buy a new connector and splice it in? That’s bound to be cheaper. Or maybe just delete the solenoid and splice in a manual fuel shutoff? The engine is a 407677-0229E1. The manual specifies two different solenoids and this is the earlier one.

 

[bertsmobile1]

789 is the solenoid wire
The plug with the ground wire ( eye terminal ) on it is the solenoid plug
Star & a private group of techs have been compiling a list of the connectors & plugs but the down side is few places stock them and direct from the factory / wholesalers have minimum wholesale sized orders

 

[StarTech]

The two wire connector housing and terminals is what I replace here.

This is cheapest way to go.
One Molex 03-06-1023 Receptacle
Two Molex 02-06-1103 Pins
You also will need one Molex 02-08-1002 Socket for the 6 position Molex Receptacle along with tool to remove the old socket terminal. 5

These are available from Mouser, Inc. or at they are for me as I have an account with them. And I do buy enough to make several sets at a time.

Now of course you would a open barrel terminal crimper to professionally crimp the pins so they will fit the receptacle and some 18 ga wire.

But for a layman you are better buying the pre-made harness. As for us in a shop setting we can just the cost of the tools to do this but the parts excluding is all of two dollars for my customers. For one of the tools cost me $70 five years ago.

 

[Elkins45]

The two wire connector housing and terminals is what I replace here.

This is cheapest way to go.
One Molex 03-06-1023 Receptacle
Two Molex 02-06-1103 Pins
You also will need one Molex 02-08-1002 Socket for the 6 position Molex Receptacle along with tool to remove the old socket terminal. 5

These are available from Mouser, Inc. or at they are for me as I have an account with them. And I do buy enough to make several sets at a time.

Now of course you would a open barrel terminal crimper to professionally crimp the pins so they will fit the receptacle and some 18 ga wire.

But for a layman you are better buying the pre-made harness. As for us in a shop setting we can just the cost of the tools to do this but the parts excluding is all of two dollars for my customers. For one of the tools cost me $70 five years ago.

The harness is $30 the cheapest I can find it. Crazy! Given that I have no idea if this engine will ever work I may just disable the solenoid and install a manual shutoff.

 

[StarTech]

Just be aware the fuel solenoid on the carburetor only blocks the main nozzle/jet. It is not a fuel shut off device like the manual or vacuum shut off valve. It only mention to prevent the after fire (fuel detonation) in the exhaust system.

Instead destroying an expensive solenoid just replace it an appropriate screw as a temporary bypass.

 

[Elkins45]

Just be aware the fuel solenoid on the carburetor only blocks the main nozzle/jet. It is not a fuel shut off device like the manual or vacuum shut off valve. It only mention to prevent the after fire (fuel detonation) in the exhaust system.

Instead destroying an expensive solenoid just replace it an appropriate screw as a temporary bypass.

Yeah, I’ve done a bunch of learning about them today. Frankly given the condition of the float bowl I would be amazed if the solenoid is functional. I really should replace the bowl too but I don’t want to throw money at an engine that may have other problems as well.

 

[StarTech]

That 499810 fuel is NLA and replaced by 798778 with 841653 O-ring added. But there is one heck a sticker shock with it. I brought 6 of the fuel bowl before the major price hike.Currently the fuel bowl lists for $134.99 with my cost being around $122. But the ones I got on the shelf only cost $30.

 

[Elkins45]

That 499810 fuel is NLA and replaced by 798778 with 841653 O-ring added. But there is one heck a sticker shock with it. I brought 6 of the fuel bowl before the major price hike.Currently the fuel bowl lists for $134.99 with my cost being around $122. But the ones I got on the shelf only cost $30.

I only paid $125 for the whole mower. I’m pretty sure I could pull a whole carb off a dead engine for less. As I said the main reason I bought the mower was for the deck and transmission. If I can get the mower running in the cheap then I will, but I’m not going to pour money into something that might never run.

I can buy a complete Chinesium replacement carb for less than $30: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1446257038...DtHb3zdi8xOEI5IdTopfruXQxtbg-2UUaAmanEALw_wcB

 

[OldDiyer]

The only problem is you buy the whole carb assy. but then you still need that harness or connectors to get it set up. Good Luck !!

 

[Elkins45]

The only problem is you buy the whole carb assy. but then you still need that harness or connectors to get it set up. Good Luck !!

I’m 99% sure it won’t run 5 minutes before it throws off some scale from the bowl and clogs again even after aI sanded and flushed it with solvent. The most cost effective thing for me to do is disable the solenoid on the old carb and see if it will start and run. If it does then I’ll run It until it clogs, then buy the replacement carb and disable the solenoid on it. I’ll just use the manual shutoff to run the engine dry to stop it.