Changing Transmission Oil

[Skippydiesel]

Do the Forum members think there is any benefit in changing the hydrodrive/transmission oil on a Toro Wheel Horse 17 hp?
(FYI mower performs very well but in the past I have had a hydraulic transmission fail & have always wondered if a timely oil change might have extended its working life)

Should the consensus be, it would be beneficial to do this - any thoughts on best oil for the job?

I realise that this may require the transmission/transaxle being removed from the mower, as there does not seem to be any provision for draining the old oil.

 

[mechanic mark]

Tuff Torque/ Loss of Power

https://www.tufftorq.com/tuff-torq-power-optimization/#:~:text=In%20the%20majority%20of%20cases,case%20need%20to%20be%20replaced. Last summer my oldest son's 2010 Simplicity Conquest Tuff Torque Transaxle K664C was very slow in reverse. I ordered complete kit with Tuff Torque 5w-50 Full...

www.lawnmowerforum.com

 

[bertsmobile1]

Hydros are designed to fail
Oil changes can prolong their life if you do not introduce dust into the box when you change the oil
Down side is purging has bare metal running on bare metal so you sort of end up in square one
When they get very grumbly and old you can go p a viscosity grade or two
Say from 20W 50 to ?w60 or even harley oil 40W70 .
I have squeezed an extra 500 hours out of some JD 100 models by resorting to thicker oil
If it has an internal brake the oil changing is very good Idea around 200 to 300 hrs as brake debris accumulates in the box .

 

[Craftsman Garage]

Yeah, they really are designed to fail with the internal brake and the brake dust circulating in the oil . External brakes are better that way.

 

[slomo]

Yeah, they really are designed to fail with the internal brake and the brake dust circulating in the oil . External brakes are better that way.

Easy there. Think what Bert was getting at is any oil contamination is no good. I'm guessing, that internal brake is a wet brake design? Inside the pump motor? I don't know. I will never own any mower with hydros. Belts are so much easier and cheaper to maintain.

 

[cliffblue]

I believe there is an immense benefit to changing the oil in the transaxels. Every mechanically knowledgeable person knows there will be wear particles in that oil that’s detrimental to the life of the unit. I have a 2020 Toro 75754 that I will service this fall. The owners manual says 20w50 motor oil, but I have found a Lucas 20w50 that is meant for transaxels. I intend to use that. I am interested if there are experienced opinions on it though.

 

[Skippydiesel]

"The owners manual says 20w50 motor oil, but I have found a Lucas 20w50 that is meant for transaxels."

Please elaborate - in what way is the Lucas oil any diffrent to what he manual is recommending?

 

[cliffblue]

"The owners manual says 20w50 motor oil, but I have found a Lucas 20w50 that is meant for transaxels."

Please elaborate - in what way is the Lucas oil any diffrent to what he manual is recommending?

I looked it up and read the specs.

 

[cliffblue]

Using the Lucas 20w50 is my gamble. I have read the Toro manuals for the transaxels on my 75754. My thoughts are motor oils are designed for motors (engines) and hydraulic oils are designed for hydraulic systems. Obviously, 20w50 motor oil will work in my transaxels, but I believe 20w50 hydraulic oil will work better. If my transaxels bite it, well it’s my $2000. I’ve been using tuff torque hydrostatic John Deere’s for over 30 years, which were built with easily serviced drain plugs and filters by the way. I hate to think that these are built to fail, but 2 of my local Toro dealers mechanics looked me in the eyes and told me the transaxels are factory sealed and not serviceable. What BS! If this blows up in my face, I promise I’ll post it on here as I munch crow. We’ll see.

 

[slomo]

Using the Lucas 20w50 is my gamble. I have read the Toro manuals for the transaxels on my 75754. My thoughts are motor oils are designed for motors (engines) and hydraulic oils are designed for hydraulic systems. Obviously, 20w50 motor oil will work in my transaxels, but I believe 20w50 hydraulic oil will work better. If my transaxels bite it, well it’s my $2000. I’ve been using tuff torque hydrostatic John Deere’s for over 30 years, which were built with easily serviced drain plugs and filters by the way. I hate to think that these are built to fail, but 2 of my local Toro dealers mechanics looked me in the eyes and told me the transaxels are factory sealed and not serviceable. What BS! If this blows up in my face, I promise I’ll post it on here as I munch crow. We’ll see.

I was just about to comment on this very same point. Motor oils are formulated for cars and trucks. Hydro oils and for hydros. If I ever had a mower with hydros I would use hydro fluid. Never happen as I will never have a mower with hydro anything. All that loud whining growling sound means trouble.