Brigs mower will only start with starting fluid

[Tinkerer200]

This is a good example why I don't come on here and give answers to the post that often.......

Yes, a really good example of why you shouldn't.

Walt Conner

 

[Carscw]

Yes, a really good example of why you shouldn't. Walt Conner

So you have been zero help in finding the problem. But act like you are the only one that could know what the problem is.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Yes, a really good example of why you shouldn't.

Walt Conner

OK you two,
My place at dawn with Lawnboy's at 100 paces we shall sort this out like gentlemen of honour.

 

[Rivets]

Tinker, it does not matter the number of years of experience one has, a simple test is to see if a unit fires when using an external fuel source. If it does, you have narrowed your problem down. Next I would check to see if the fuel solenoid is working. The OP doesn't want to tell us model numbers, so we don't know which engine he has. We can only guess at solutions, that's what EngineMan was doing. Your statement about the relationship was wrong, as they are related, especially when we don't know what engine. Bert, I prefer Toro and who can handle the most beers in the evening, not dawn. Can you arrange that?

 

[bertsmobile1]

Hello I have a brigs 14 hp engine bolted to a lawn mower but there is no drive or deck belt so the motor has no load on it. But the problem is when I go to start it it turn the key the starter will spin the engine for a little bit then stop and it will keep repeating the proses it's getting gas the strange part is when I spray some starting fluid in the carb the starter will keep turning it until it starts it may start and stop a few times then keep cranking to start. But one it starts it run pretty good if you shut it off it won't start without starting fluid And sometimes starting fluid won't help. I first thought an electrical problem but starting fluid wouldn't fix an electrical problem also even if you choke it it doesn't matter it still won't start. I would really apresheate any help

So while The Tinkerman & Engine man as settleling their differences on the field of honour
Lets get back to poor Issac or rather Issac's poor mower.

So to get things right, you engine will only start after a lot of cranking and only after you spray some starter fluid down the carb but once started it runs fine.
Further to this the starter itself will only spin for shortish periods and cut out while you still have the key turned to the start position.

What I see are several problems most likely due to insufficient maintenance.

1) your starter motor / starter solenoid is on the way out, hence the warning about over cranking, starters are not very robust and easily damaged.

2) the carb has a problem at idle / start position identified by the fact it will eventually start with starter fluid.

3) there may be an electrical problem causing the fuel shut off solenoid to malfunction.


Because we only have what you type in to make our diagnosis and because every one sees & hears things differently this becomes even more difficult.

So rather than try and make my best guess, I would advise starting with the mechanical then going to the electrical.

The order is not particularly important.
1) remove the cowel and inspect the flywheel key. It must be a perfect square .
2) remove the rocker cover and check the valve clearences
3) look closely at the choke butterfly ( it is the one at the air filter side of the carb ), it must close fully.
4) remove the carb solenoid and turn the engine on & off watch for it opening fully every time you turn the key.
5) test the solenoid while the engine is cranking with a spark plug fitted , if it bounces, quivers or closes while the engine is cranking you have a power supply problem.
6) Remove the float bowl and crank the engine wile spraying water all over the carb mountings then remove the spark plug. If it is wet you are sucking air and need to replace the carb & manifold gaskets.
7) remove the carb and with a spray can of carb cleaner , WD 40 or similar that has a long nozel on the trigger, spray fluid backwards down the carb through all the holes to make sure they are clear.
Some of these holes are tiny. particularly the 1 or 2 that are in the side of the carb in front ( engine side ) of the throttle butterfly these are the ones that start the engine.

 

[Carscw]

So while The Tinkerman & Engine man as settleling their differences on the field of honour Lets get back to poor Issac or rather Issac's poor mower. So to get things right, you engine will only start after a lot of cranking and only after you spray some starter fluid down the carb but once started it runs fine. Further to this the starter itself will only spin for shortish periods and cut out while you still have the key turned to the start position. What I see are several problems most likely due to insufficient maintenance. 1) your starter motor / starter solenoid is on the way out, hence the warning about over cranking, starters are not very robust and easily damaged. 2) the carb has a problem at idle / start position identified by the fact it will eventually start with starter fluid. 3) there may be an electrical problem causing the fuel shut off solenoid to malfunction. Because we only have what you type in to make our diagnosis and because every one sees & hears things differently this becomes even more difficult. So rather than try and make my best guess, I would advise starting with the mechanical then going to the electrical. The order is not particularly important. 1) remove the cowel and inspect the flywheel key. It must be a perfect square . 2) remove the rocker cover and check the valve clearences 3) look closely at the choke butterfly ( it is the one at the air filter side of the carb ), it must close fully. 4) remove the carb solenoid and turn the engine on & off watch for it opening fully every time you turn the key. 5) test the solenoid while the engine is cranking with a spark plug fitted , if it bounces, quivers or closes while the engine is cranking you have a power supply problem. 6) Remove the float bowl and crank the engine wile spraying water all over the carb mountings then remove the spark plug. If it is wet you are sucking air and need to replace the carb & manifold gaskets. 7) remove the carb and with a spray can of carb cleaner , WD 40 or similar that has a long nozel on the trigger, spray fluid backwards down the carb through all the holes to make sure they are clear. Some of these holes are tiny. particularly the 1 or 2 that are in the side of the carb in front ( engine side ) of the throttle butterfly these are the ones that start the engine.

His engine does not have a anti backfire solenoid.

 

[EngineMan]

I did say "check to see if there is a fuel solenoid, if so is it working..? make sure there is fuel getting to the carb." numbers off the engine or even a photo would help.

 

[Tinkerer200]

His engine does not have a anti backfire solenoid.

Now that can't be possible, after all, how can starter fluid fix it if it doesn't have one? But then, I don't know anything about fuel systems.

Walt Conner

 

[bertsmobile1]

His engine does not have a anti backfire solenoid.

Sorry I must have missed something .
All I remember reading was it is a 14Hp OHV engine with a starting problem.

 

[Rivets]

Tinker, I had a lot of respect for you, until you got involved in this thread. I suggest you reread the posts and you will see a problem with your thinking.
Post #1. The OP explained his problem and asked for help.
Post #3. EngineMan advise the OP to check the fuel shut off solenoid IF HE HAD ONE, and to see if it is working. A legitimate question as the OP did not provide engine numbers and we have no idea which model he was working on.
Post #7. I pointed out that if using starting fluid as a troubleshoot tool if there was a fuel solenoid. I also asked the OP to post engine model numbers.
Post #8. The OP reported for the first time there was no fuel solenoid, but still didn't provide numbers.
After that this thread went haywire, because of two thing. Personal problems and failure for us to know the exact model of engine. You made assumptions, instead of reading carefully each post.

To the OP, please look at your engine carefully and find the model, type and code numbers. When we get those numbers we will know exactly which engine you have. Bert and Darrinster have given you very good broad things to look for, but when we have a better picture of your engine we can be much more exact.

Bert, are you still trying to put together the challenge of the most beers in the evening, or does that not work for you?