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It's a 12F702/1814-E1 on a Toro Super recycler. I put a carb kit on it and replaced the air cleaner base gasket which I'm thinking is critical to the priming system working. Didn't fix it though. The bulb looks good. No cracks, holes, or tears.
I found this video a minute ago... any thoughts?
HOW TO FIX A BRIGGS AND STRATTON ENGINE THAT WONT PRIME - YouTube

It will be a dry primer so will use air to push fuel up main jet.

The air filter backing plate is not sealing against the carb.

The air filter backing plate can be distorted so you may need a new one but usually just put more gaskets on to seal the gap.

pugaltitude said:

It will be a dry primer so will use air to push fuel up main jet.

The air filter backing plate is not sealing against the carb.

The air filter backing plate can be distorted so you may need a new one but usually just put more gaskets on to seal the gap.

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Thanks. Yes, a dry primer. I didn't have an extra gasket so I made one. Was a PITA to make but looks good, hope one extra is enough. Much obliged

The gaskets are inexpensive so I'd recommend getting a couple of the genuine article for the Briggs and Stratton engine you have. Next, snug the bolts that hold the air cleaner base up, but don't go Magilla Gorilla on them. That's what causes those bases to warp and fail to seal properly.

bwdbrn1 said:

The gaskets are inexpensive so I'd recommend getting a couple of the genuine article for the Briggs and Stratton engine you have. Next, snug the bolts that hold the air cleaner base up, but don't go Magilla Gorilla on them. That's what causes those bases to warp and fail to seal properly.

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Hey I was looking at the carb and I don't see any way it will prime. If you look at the pic there are 2 holes in the carb about where the red dots are. I was thinking the primer pushed air through one of those but neither is even close to being where that would happen. I looked closer at the car and here is a plugged hole where the green dot is. That seems to be where any priming action would happen. That bulb is never going to push any air through there.

Mike88se said:

Hey I was looking at the carb and I don't see any way it will prime. If you look at the pic there are 2 holes in the carb about where the red dots are. I was thinking the primer pushed air through one of those but neither is even close to being where that would happen. I looked closer at the car and here is a plugged hole where the green dot is. That seems to be where any priming action would happen. That bulb is never going to push any air through there.
View attachment 19521

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Yes the green hole is where the priming happens.
I assume its blocked with dirt?

If the engine was to start with a choke instead of primer then the hole would be
blocked completely (not drilled out)

pugaltitude said:

Yes the green hole is where the priming happens.
I assume its blocked with dirt?

If the engine was to start with a choke instead of primer then the hole would be
blocked completely (not drilled out)

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It is blocked completely... there was a bit of browning something...not dirt really... I scraped that out and underneath it's metal. There is a white thing on top with detentes that is on the shaft of the choke plate. I can move it manually but it isn't connected to any springs or rods.

That hole should be connected directly to the float bowl. If you take compressed air and blow lightly into the hole and watch to see if fuel is pumped into the carb throat. No fuel means you will have to remove the carb and give it a 24 hour bath, to open that passageway. Can you provide a picture of the front of the carb?

Rivets said:

That hole should be connected directly to the float bowl. If you take compressed air and blow lightly into the hole and watch to see if fuel is pumped into the carb throat. No fuel means you will have to remove the carb and give it a 24 hour bath, to open that passageway. Can you provide a picture of the front of the carb?

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I can get a pic later but a bath isn't going to open the hole ...there is no hole really. Under the brown stuff is just metal. I probed at it with a pik to get the brown stuff out and underneath is just metal.

Mike88se said:

I can get a pic later but a bath isn't going to open the hole ...there is no hole really. Under the brown stuff is just metal. I probed at it with a pik to get the brown stuff out and underneath is just metal.

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I could probably drill a hole right? If I was very very careful

What is the whole story on this engine? Does this carb have a choke? Is this a different carb from the original? What is the Toro model number?

Well it either primed by hand, has a manual choke or auto choke. If someone replaced the air cover with something they had on hand it probably doesn't have a primer bulb. Does it have a throttle control or govenor I'm wondering if someone replaced the carb at somepoint and got the wrong one. The prime hole is very obvious and should not be plugged

those darn filter housings will warp and also where it mates to the gasket will flatten out and it wont prime .....make sure its in good shape and replace it if need be good luck

Fish said:

What is the whole story on this engine? Does this carb have a choke? Is this a different carb from the original? What is the Toro model number?

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I don't know the story on the engine. I bought the mower used a few weeks back. Not positive on the Toro number but I think it's
20487

exotion said:

Well it either primed by hand, has a manual choke or auto choke. If someone replaced the air cover with something they had on hand it probably doesn't have a primer bulb. Does it have a throttle control or govenor I'm wondering if someone replaced the carb at somepoint and got the wrong one. The prime hole is very obvious and should not be plugged

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Hard to say what's been done with a mower somebody else owned. It has a throttle, governor, and a primer bulb.

briggs said:

those darn filter housings will warp and also where it mates to the gasket will flatten out and it wont prime .....make sure its in good shape and replace it if need be good luck

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That part is NLA and with that hole plugged it's isn't going to prime anyway.
Since there seems to be some doubt here I'll post some pics. The carb # is 214570. Engine number 12f702-1814 E1 Serial# 97071659. This pic should lay to rest any doubt that the hole is plugged or was never drilled out:

This is the plastic "cam" on top of the choke shaft:

Is there a circuit in there somewhere where the green line is?


Heres the primer bulb and filter plate

That carb hasn't got a primer bulb, its fitted with a choke control. and the part number for carb is 498965

Well a pic is worth a 1,000 words, eh?

EngineMan said:

That carb hasn't got a primer bulb, its fitted with a choke control. and the part number for carb is 498965

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Ok... two questions.
What is that primer bulb looking thing where a primer bulb should be?
What controls the choke? Is there a part missing that fits on to of that cam looking thing that would connect to a spring or rod?
Ah hell 3 questions... if the carb is a 498965 then why does it have 214570 stamped on it?

Fish said:

Well a pic is worth a 1,000 words, eh?

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Sure looks like a primer bulb to me.
Hell might as well ask another one
When the choke plate is closed the mower still won't start w/o gas or carb cleaner sprayed in the throat. How about just drilling that hole out?

Here is a pic of a choke model, just a blind plug/cap where the primer snaps in.

Well Toro 20487 is showing an ohv model

Looks like someone had an extra housing that just happened to be a bulb style... The choke should be controlled by the throttle you can manually close the butterfly with the throttle if you cannot it probably needs adjusting

Mike88se said:

Ok... two questions.
What is that primer bulb looking thing where a primer bulb should be?
What controls the choke? Is there a part missing that fits on to of that cam looking thing that would connect to a spring or rod?
Ah hell 3 questions... if the carb is a 498965 then why does it have 214570 stamped on it?


Sure looks like a primer bulb to me.
Hell might as well ask another one
When the choke plate is closed the mower still won't start w/o gas or carb cleaner sprayed in the throat. How about just drilling that hole out?

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answer 1 I don't see any "primer bulb looking thing"
answer 2 numbers on the carb are not the part number from the B&S parts manual.
answer 3 apart from damaging the carb, you be wasting your time drilling out anything, but good luck anyway..!

Here are some pics that show where my throttle control is on the handle and the front of the a/c cover etc

Fish said:

Here is a pic of a choke model, just a blind plug/cap where the primer snaps in.

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I don't think that's stock my friend... I think you have a choke model... Push all the way down on throttle closes carb. Move it a touch up is full throttle and up from that slows it down until all the way up witch is off...

The carb pictured is not a lawn mower carb, but one that is used on snowblowers. That carb does not go with that engine.

EngineMan said:

answer 1 I don't see any "primer bulb looking thing"
answer 2 numbers on the carb are not the part number from the B&S parts manual.
answer 3 apart from damaging the carb, you be wasting your time drilling out anything, but good luck anyway..!

Click to expand...

Put on your specs


As I said, closing the choke doesn't start the engine. I have to prime it. You have suggestions?

Replace carb with primer model just looked most toro gts briggs engines are primed so perhaps the carb was replaced not the cover and they didn't get the right carb. I would double check the choke is closing all the way before preceding closing the butterfly will make less air flow and more gas and should start your engine if its truly a primer model you need to figure out why this carb isn't pruning or get a different carb

You can push the primer bulb all day long and it will not prime, time to buy the correct carb.

Look up under where the lever controls are for the model number.

Rivets said:

The carb pictured is not a lawn mower carb, but one that is used on snowblowers. That carb does not go with that engine.

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I thought the same thing about the carb. Doesnt have the right look to be the right one.

Fish said:

What is the whole story on this engine? Does this carb have a choke? Is this a different carb from the original? What is the Toro model number?

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Wow, a whole bunch of folks boldly stating the obvious!

How about putting up the correct model/serial/type numbers off of the mower and engine????????

Look under the plate that the throttle control is mounted for the mower's model/serial number!

You should know where the engines Model/Type/Code numbers are!!!!!

Damn!!! Why do we have to pull teeth on every thread????

Fish said:

Wow, a whole bunch of folks boldly stating the obvious!

How about putting up the correct model/serial/type numbers off of the mower and engine????????

Look under the plate that the throttle control is mounted for the mower's model/serial number!

You should know where the engines Model/Type/Code numbers are!!!!!

Damn!!! Why do we have to pull teeth on every thread????

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Hey... the engineman up there said this is a 498965. That is a carb for a Briggs and Stratton 12F702-1814-E1 engine which is what we have here along with a throttle control that works and a primer system that doesn't. Nobody is you to pull any ******* teeth.

Ohhh calm down. Unless we have the machine on our table we have to pick and prod... For info.

i am telling u its the plastic housing its warped or the edge that meets the gasket is warn seen it a 100 times or more if u used gasket maker on it u might have got some in the hole on carb

The briggs numbers will give you a blowup of both carbs, maybe 4 if the Nikki ones were used, and a variety of throttle/choke controls, you pick the parts you need depending on what you have. If you could find the correct Toro model number, they usually give you an engine blowup of the exact engine you have....

So you would do everyone a favor and find the model number off of the tag, the number you gave me was showing an ohv engine. And yes, a serial number too!!!!

All I know is that carb was not the original carb which came on that mower. I also know that the air cleaner housing shown with primer will never work with the carb shown. That is all I know for sure, so I am out of this thread and will let the rest of you experts argue it out. I'm not smart enough to help.

Rivets said:

All I know is that carb was not the original carb which came on that mower. I also know that the air cleaner housing shown with primer will never work with the carb shown. That is all I know for sure, so I am out of this thread and will let the rest of you experts argue it out. I'm not smart enough to help.

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Yeah, we have heard that before... Boldly state the obvious, try to take control of the thread, call anyone/everyone "bad cooks" too many cooks, etc.

If things get too difficult, you suggest the guy to go to a Scag dealer, and beg him to swap out parts......

If anyone doesn't fall into line, you throw up this "I am not smart enough to help" chit!!!!

"The rest of you experts"???

Come on..... Ease up man, quit trying to be "King of the Hill"!!!!!!

Ok to much anger. Your on a computer screen this is a community and as a community some people just don't get along (right ric ) were all just trying to help

No anger.... Just amazed at all of the chit....

So without a Toro model/serial number, this thread should just "fade away"........

Yes....

We "all" are trying to help....

So post the info "we" need to "help" you!!!!

that's why i stopped coming on here to much BS i own a small engine shop and do very well at it but i am no expert lol just a gear head that loves doing it i am out of this thread i gave my opinion i could be wrong but hey we all cant be right lol

Mr. Fish, when you have something to say besides the same as every counterman " I need model numbers to help you" I might give you some respect. I have 40+ years in this industry and have forgotten more than you know. I'm getting out of this thread, because the answer to this problem has been given and if you want to continue be my guest. I've never claimed to be the king of the hill, but I do know when to stop battling the south bound end of a north bound skunk like you. About swapping parts, you better have someone explain to you what I posted about when, why and where I swap parts, because you can't read and comprehend very well.

briggs said:

that's why i stopped coming on here to much BS i own a small engine shop and do very well at it but i am no expert lol just a gear head that loves doing it i am out of this thread i gave my opinion i could be wrong but hey we all cant be right lol

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I am a landscaper but I am just a gear head like you. I stay out of the threads I know nothing about. But read almost every thread on the forum so I learn. I take what I learn and use it rivets is right the answer has been given replace the carb. Fish is right we need a model number to tell you which carb to use

Rivets said:

Mr. Fish, when you have something to say besides the same as every counterman " I need model numbers to help you" I might give you some respect. I have 40+ years in this industry and have forgotten more than you know. I'm getting out of this thread, because the answer to this problem has been given and if you want to continue be my guest. I've never claimed to be the king of the hill, but I do know when to stop battling the south bound end of a north bound skunk like you. About swapping parts, you better have someone explain to you what I posted about when, why and where I swap parts, because you can't read and comprehend very well.

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How anyone can give any "good' advice without knowing what engine and mower numbers escapes me, no matter how many "years" are involved...

Helping folks here should be without too much drama, and not going "sniff", "Let the "experts" help you... Don't be such a child.... And if you start your "electrical help",
don't try to run off any other posters!!!!!!

And after running off all of the other posters, tell the original poster he should take his relays and modules to a Scag dealer and see if he will let the poster swap them for free..... After all of that high winded testing advice!!! It makes us all look bad...... If you pretend to know it all, you should have a better track record....

good luck poster hope u find your answer

NAW.... I was the "tech" that the "countermen" came to.....

How can "anyone" intelligently talk about a unit without a model/type/serial/spec number off of both the unit and the engine????

Your record here is not very impressive, other than your self basting of your ego......

Fish said:

NAW.... I was the "tech" that the "countermen" came to.....

How can "anyone" intelligently talk about a unit without a model/type/serial/spec number off of both the unit and the engine????

Your record here is not very impressive, other than your self basting of your ego......

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Well as a whole all engines function the same. Some have different features. Simple problems can be diagnosed just by the symptom. On the other hand if they don't tell model type we can't give them links to parts. Or if there is a different feature we don't know. Engines as a whole are very simple get complicated at the same time they have a few Target areas that need attention (carb, valves, coil, fuel) more complicated than that makes for hard diagnoses

The only poster I will continue to try to run off is you, Mr. Fish. An experienced mechanic can diagnosis problems without model numbers, but will used them to identify replacement parts. As for my record, I didn't know anyone was keeping score. Where do I find the standings, I would really like to know how far below you I am.

hit it with a hammer it will fix it that fixes all

briggs said:

hit it with a hammer it will fix it that fixes all

Click to expand...

Then duct tape it back together redgreen.com

Rivets said:

An experienced mechanic can diagnosis problems without model numbers .

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YAH, you go girl!!!!

Now you're talking like a counter man, please go find my parts, or do you have to order them?

I think you two should talk this over in private message? And possible an admin freeze this thread we now have 3 pages of an argument

What about getting 1 thread of intelligent info?

Mike88se said:

Hey... the engineman up there said this is a 498965. That is a carb for a Briggs and Stratton 12F702-1814-E1 engine which is what we have here along with a throttle control that works and a primer system that doesn't. Nobody is you to pull any ******* teeth.

Click to expand...

What about giving us some intelligent info??????

Will it start if you spray some starting fluid into the carb?
Yes
Ok then just give it a spray and cut the grass.

I was thinking maybe your using the wrong brand of oil.

I just don't get why the two of you can not just stop nick picking each other.

come on guys just tie the knot and get it over with ha ha ha

Yeah guys....

I'm sorry........


sniff.........

briggs said:

good luck poster hope u find your answer

Click to expand...

Thanks, I did. Appreciate all the help regardless of whether it was given in an adult manner or not. Trust me when I say I've been doing this alone for a while and I don't ask for help unless I'm just really stumped or in doubt about whether I'm about to screw up big.
I posted on car resto and modification forums for more than 10 years. This thread doesn't come close to the freeforalls I saw on those boards lol. I used to get asked why I was so easy on the newbies and accused of leading them by the hand. All I could say was well at the moment they need it. Eventually they'll either learn and be an asset to new guys down the line or they give up and find something else... and I don't see any point in giving them a hard time while they're struggling... if they're trying.
And yep, I found the correct carb. The carb matches the engine, not the mower right? I don't know if that was a snow blower carb but it def wasn't the right one. And this did turn out to be a pretty interesting thread about an odd little mower
FWIW this is the carb here.
Mods and admins feel free to lock this one up. Lets just move on.

Yeah, I have been on the web trying to help folks {for free!!!} since 1999, and a weird thing is that folks out there like to invent problems, and will spend a lot of time to
make good folks like us jump through some serious hoops.

They had it good, as anyone raising any questions were ruled as "nuts". But you have put us all through enough bullchit to mark you as trouble......

Fish said:

Yes....

We "all" are trying to help....

So post the info "we" need to "help" you!!!!

Click to expand...

Was this one ever addressed?

Mike88se said:

It's a 12F702/1814-E1 on a Toro Super recycler. I put a carb kit on it and replaced the air cleaner base gasket which I'm thinking is critical to the priming system working. Didn't fix it though. The bulb looks good. No cracks, holes, or tears.
I found this video a minute ago... any thoughts?
HOW TO FIX A BRIGGS AND STRATTON ENGINE THAT WONT PRIME - YouTube

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You are kidding, right????? Looking back, are you serious?

Fish said:

Yeah, I have been on the web trying to help folks {for free!!!} since 1999, and a weird thing is that folks out there like to invent problems, and will spend a lot of time to
make good folks like us jump through some serious hoops.

They had it good, as anyone raising any questions were ruled as "nuts". But you have put us all through enough bullchit to mark you as trouble......

Click to expand...

Fish said:

Was this one ever addressed?

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Fish said:

You are kidding, right????? Looking back, are you serious?

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I haven't put you through anything. You're a crank and those 3 posts illustrate it clearly. It's done but you don't want to let it go.
Us? You speak for everyone here? I doubt that Fish.

This thread.. these arguments need to stop can an admin freeze or even delete this thread please.

But this is good entertainment.
I myself try to not get into any type of altercations with anyone.

exotion said:

This thread.. these arguments need to stop can an admin freeze or even delete this thread please.

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Why??? Do you think that folks that try to help folks, won't have a little friction with those that have been here already?

Did the original poster ever post the original model numbers? Why did this forum "futz" over a thread so long with this silliness.???

Fish said:

Why??? Do you think that folks that try to help folks, won't have a little friction with those that have been here already? Did the original poster ever post the original model numbers? Why did this forum "futz" over a thread so long with this silliness.???

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????
I have no clue what you said.

Yeah, you are correct...

Did we ever get the Toro model number??? Why did we get all of the other senseless info? Why did we spend days on the first question????

http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/small-engine-mower-repair/22096-briggs-stratton-wont-prime.html

Will we ever get a Toro model number? Why should we have to????

Yah, you all go about removing me....


It would make most of you guys happy, eh???? No woories..........

Fish said:

Yah, you all go about removing me.... It would make most of you guys happy, eh???? No woories..........

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Man don't let the little stuff get to you.

No worries. Like I said before, I just post here to try to help folks, but like the other guys here, I love to baste my own ego.......... So there will be some friction....
But what really chafes me is the guys posting bogus scenarios, which happens a lot.

Fish said:

No worries. Like I said before, I just post here to try to help folks, but like the other guys here, I love to baste my own ego.......... So there will be some friction....
But what really chafes me is the guys posting bogus scenarios, which happens a lot.

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in your case sorry u think everyone is full of it .Allot of us work in the Field and an engine can do many things and have many different things case that issue ....I have seen seen allot of stuff u would not think of ....

Yes, most of us work in this field, and the sad truth is that there are "trolls" that cruise these forums and like to make us jump through a lot of hoops.....

No matter, I'll just ignore ole Mike...... And the rest of whoever can ignore ole me.....

Fish said:

Yes, most of us work in this field, and the sad truth is that there are "trolls" that cruise these forums and like to make us jump through a lot of hoops.....

No matter, I'll just ignore ole Mike...... And the rest of whoever can ignore ole me.....

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i dont mind helping nor do u but the fighting is getting out of hand on here i had my own forum and closed it do this stuff .....we all cant be right all we can do is pass on what we have learned its not like we have the EQ in front of us ..If we did it would be allot simpler

In my opinion the problem is most people think their way is the only way to do things.

I have ways that work for me that others say will not work just as I think others go about things the long hard way.

Now let's be honest there is nothing hard or difficult about mowers.

Carscw said:

In my opinion the problem is most people think their way is the only way to do things.

I have ways that work for me that others say will not work just as I think others go about things the long hard way.

Now let's be honest there is nothing hard or difficult about mowers.

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yes this is true and most mowers are simple

They can be simple once you understand the mechanics there is nothing to overly complicated about the parts that brake carbs are the number one offender. Followed by valve adjustment and then the flywheel key. Once something internal or electrical it gets complicated but basicaly a small engine is all the same.

exotion said:

They can be simple once you understand the mechanics there is nothing to overly complicated about the parts that brake carbs are the number one offender. Followed by valve adjustment and then the flywheel key. Once something internal or electrical it gets complicated but basicaly a small engine is all the same.

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I hate carbs I just replace them on mowers I get that need them. I have a briggs that is 11 years old has never had the carb touched.

Electrical to me is the easy thing next to belts and pulleys. You have one wire that runs all over the mower with a few on off switches on it

Carscw said:

I hate carbs I just replace them on mowers I get that need them. I have a briggs that is 11 years old has never had the carb touched.

Electrical to me is the easy thing next to belts and pulleys. You have one wire that runs all over the mower with a few on off switches on it

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Carbs are easy for me. Cleaning them usually works. Small carbs for 4 stroke or 2 stroke aren't worth rebuilding might as well spring the couple extra bucks for a new carb . I've rebuilt car carbs quite a bit. For those a rebuild is hugely cheaper then replacing especialy of you have a quality one.

Electrical is hit and miss with me if the wiring is straight forward positive and negative and ground. And I can follow the battery. When I have to start testing relays and pto and such I seem to get overwhelmed

Carscw said:

I hate carbs I just replace them on mowers I get that need them. I have a briggs that is 11 years old has never had the carb touched.

Electrical to me is the easy thing next to belts and pulleys. You have one wire that runs all over the mower with a few on off switches on it

Click to expand...

I do like that,: one wire all over with switches.:thumbsup:carbs are a reaction device,something caused them to fail is another one ive heard that I like

Yes, fixing this stuff is "real" easy, simple, anyone that follows this forum could see that from way far away.......

Thanks for "snapping' me back into reality!!!!!

Reality to you is only someone agreeing with you........ Or giving you some numbers"........

Rivets said:

Reality to you is only someone agreeing with you........ Or giving you some numbers"........

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This thread is still going? :shocked:

Rivets said:

Reality to you is only someone agreeing with you........ Or giving you some numbers"........

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LOL. Not many agreeing with me, or giving me model numbers too!!!!!! Kind of like you not helping anyone either!!!! Take the switches to the Scag dealer, eh?

Mike88se said:

This thread is still going? :shocked:

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Why would it not be still going?

Just to cut through all of the bull, what are the model/type numbers?

Of the original mower?

And what is the full bullchit story of all of the rest of this bullchit story!!!!!

I know a lot of folks here love to be jerked around....

Just because you do not understand or get what the OP is asking or trying to say does not mean it bullchit.
I asked about a briggs twin engine and no one on here could tell me why it does this. A few even said I made the whole thing up.

Carscw said:

Just because you do not understand or get what the OP is asking or trying to say does not mean it bullchit.
I asked about a briggs twin engine and no one on here could tell me why it does this. A few even said I made the whole thing up.

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Everytime a mechanic looks at my jeep they are like this is not running.... I'm like I drove it here they say no I didn't.

Some people lack terminology or part names to properly rescind the problem doesn't make people full of bullchit .... That's all

Fish said:

Why would it not be still going?

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Why would the thread not be going? Because there's no reason for it to be going on...
1. It was a simple answer that was given several pages back. The carb matches the engine, not the mower. A previous owner had installed the wrong carb.
2. the mower was fixed... problem solved. It's posted back on page 6.
Why is it still going? That's something you'd have to answer. I'm sure you have your reasons

Mr. Fish just gets bored sitting behind the counter, because no one comes in with numbers. I pity the poor novice who comes into his place asking for help. He acts more like the engineers, who get defensive about their designs, when mechanics ask why they make us remove extra parts to fix simple problems. They never have to work on the finished product, he has always known how to do everything and has never had to solve the problems by learning from past experiences. Just like many of the teenagers I had in the classroom. Good part is that most of them learned where they were wrong very quickly.

Nah, the Briggs site puts up several carb setups for the engine listed, Primer/choke, Nikki/Nikuni?Briggs, whatever. The info needed for intelligent discussion was on the Toro model number. As far as "Rivets" assuming that I am a parts guy is false as well. I have been the tech in the shop that the parts guys came to with questions.

Your posts, Rivets, are revealing a lot about you......

This forum, luckily, is not your "classroom".....

Teacher.......

Maybe he is using the wrong oil

Carscw said:

Maybe he is using the wrong oil

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I'm going to start reporting that word as an offensive word maybe we can get it so the forum starts doing ***

exotion said:

I'm going to start reporting that word as an offensive word maybe we can get it so the forum starts doing ***

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Then I will have to do it like the other words I use that have been blocked

O I L

Carscw said:

Then I will have to do it like the other words I use that have been blocked

O I L

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but if you invert that O I L its 7 1 0 theres the numbers

Mike88se said:

Put on your specs
View attachment 19549

As I said, closing the choke doesn't start the engine. I have to prime it. You have suggestions?

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Let us explore this post, eh?

Fish said:

What is the whole story on this engine? Does this carb have a choke? Is this a different carb from the original? What is the Toro model number?

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Pretty much "nailed" it here........

Fish buddy I think your acting like a child. I have respect for your knowledge you've helped a lot of people here. But the fact you keep doing this is making me (and probably more) lose that respect please stop and go back to helping people

exotion said:

Fish buddy I think your acting like a child. I have respect for your knowledge you've helped a lot of people here. But the fact you keep doing this is making me (and probably more) lose that respect please stop and go back to helping people

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Why would this be? I am responding here because you guys are saying that I "am" acting like a child.....

And the folks here would rather I let all of these posts "pass".

Naw, my record won't be affected by futzing around with someone that refuses to be honest here.. I agree the whole thing is quite silly, Mike just wants folks to
interact with him, which is fine...

I'll let this one go.......

But for this much space to be wasted on a poster that refused to give the model numbers of his toro is
quite silly

Mike88se said:

It's a 12F702/1814-E1 on a Toro Super recycler. I put a carb kit on it and replaced the air cleaner base gasket which I'm thinking is critical to the priming system working. Didn't fix it though. The bulb looks good. No cracks, holes, or tears.
I found this video a minute ago... any thoughts?
HOW TO FIX A BRIGGS AND STRATTON ENGINE THAT WONT PRIME - YouTube

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Mike,
I will give this answer and get out of this thread. I don't want to get into this argument. Most people that read this answer will hate me and start another argument way off the subject again.
First ? . Did you ever see this run ?
I am just a stupid city boy gone country. I have a cheap Walmart lawn mower with a B & S engine bought new 3 years ago.
Last fall it started giving me trouble starting. I am a big fan of starting fluid. Have a few very old things that will only start by using it. Once started and running they will be OK. Use it with caution. Just a small shot.
Nuff said. I'm out of here so let the arguments flow.

JAZ said:

Mike, I will give this answer and get out of this thread. I don't want to get into this argument. Most people that read this answer will hate me and start another argument way off the subject again. First ? . Did you ever see this run ? I am just a stupid city boy gone country. I have a cheap Walmart lawn mower with a B & S engine bought new 3 years ago. Last fall it started giving me trouble starting. I am a big fan of starting fluid. Have a few very old things that will only start by using it. Once started and running they will be OK. Use it with caution. Just a small shot. Nuff said. I'm out of here so let the arguments flow.

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That's what I said just use starting fluid to get it going.

JAZ said:

Mike,
I will give this answer and get out of this thread. I don't want to get into this argument. Most people that read this answer will hate me and start another argument way off the subject again.
First ? . Did you ever see this run ?
I am just a stupid city boy gone country. I have a cheap Walmart lawn mower with a B & S engine bought new 3 years ago.
Last fall it started giving me trouble starting. I am a big fan of starting fluid. Have a few very old things that will only start by using it. Once started and running they will be OK. Use it with caution. Just a small shot.
Nuff said. I'm out of here so let the arguments flow.

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Hey JAZ
I didn't want to get into this argument either. When I went to look at the mower the owner and I tried to start it with the primer bulb. Then he got out some starting fluid or carb cleaner and sprayed it into the carb and it started up. That was the only way I could get it to start while I owned it. It would continue to run once it was started. I made that clear to potential buyers. One guy was determined he wanted the mower regardless. I told him there was another carb available for $25 that would make the mower able to start w/o spraying fluid in the carb. He bought the mower but never contacted me about the other carb. He did call later and ask about the BOP mower He seemed well pleased with the Toro. It was a good mower other than the priming issue.
I'm not here for arguments or drama... trust me. I'm here to learn and be part of the community. I see Mr Fish has followed me to my Honda coil thread to try and start another thing going. I'm trying real hard to ignore that but when somebody questions your honesty it's hard to stay silent.

Carscw said:

That's what I said just use starting fluid to get it going.

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I guess that's what the new owner is doing. He said he could fix it but there's no prime circuit there so I'm not sure how he's going to do that. As long as he's happy it's a win/win as far as Im concerned.

Mike88se said:

It's a 12F702/1814-E1 on a Toro Super recycler. I put a carb kit on it and replaced the air cleaner base gasket which I'm thinking is critical to the priming system working. Didn't fix it though. The bulb looks good. No cracks, holes, or tears.
I found this video a minute ago... any thoughts?
HOW TO FIX A BRIGGS AND STRATTON ENGINE THAT WONT PRIME - YouTube

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Try doubling the carb to air box gasket. It has worked for me many times. Make sure bolts are snugged securely.

John

wow i go away for a week and u guys are still going ...................REPLACE THE DAM GASKET AND PLASTIC HOUSING OR THE CARB AND BE DONE WITH IT >>>>then we wont have this BS on the Thread anymore :confused2:

briggs said:

wow i go away for a week and u guys are still going ...................REPLACE THE DAM GASKET AND PLASTIC HOUSING OR THE CARB AND BE DONE WITH IT >>>>then we wont have this BS on the Thread anymore :confused2:

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lol... welcome back I'm going to ask the mods/admin to close this thread. I can't blame anybody for not wading through this whole thread but I'll say it again tho to be sure everybody gets it... I don't even own the mower anymore.
Appreciate all the help and concern tho... even from Mr Fish :tongue:

Mike88se said:

lol... welcome back I'm going to ask the mods/admin to close this thread. I can't blame anybody for not wading through this whole thread but I'll say it again tho to be sure everybody gets it... I don't even own the mower anymore.
Appreciate all the help and concern tho... even from Mr Fish :tongue:

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LOL i was just going to say hit the dam thing with a hammer ha ha ha