Is that for the air filter?
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Briggs& Stratton engine will not turn over
- Thread starter JimP2014
- Start date
More options
Export threadIt might be but not for the setup I have. But if you buy it brand new it looks like that. So the choke lever and going by another carburetor is very springy and somehow all the springiness of the carburetor which is brand new is gone out of it. The other thing, I'm pretty sure I went to the parts list that I've been using right along and I got a new flywheel fan, a new grill and a new cup that holds the flywheel bolt. And so what happened was when I started it. The plastic fins started breaking off the fins. Yeah started breaking off so I turn it off. According to the diagram, I have the right part number for flywheel fan, but I ended up taking a Dremel tool and reshaping it because it seems like part of the flywheel fan was overhanging the flywheel. It's interesting that the flywheel fan comes in three versions. Maybe for the same exact machine the LT 2000 but I was reading that. Oftentimes parts will change. Midstream during a production run of something and it gets confusing. I think with my lt2000 if you have one metal rod going from the mower deck to the chassis between the two front tires then that means I believe the belt length is 101 in, but if you have two rods coming off the mower deck going to the front of the chassis you need a 96-in belt or something similar. The second time around I was able to get the 11-in belt and it seems to work pretty good. But the point is the flywheel fan kit which is a Briggs& Stratton part. It's not the right flywheel fan for the engine housing. I don't have the part number off top of my head but there's only one part number designated in the whole schematic for the flywheel fan and they basically keep repeating it in the schematic. So tomorrow I will run it where no spark plug put everything back together and see what happens when I turn the starter if anything hits. But I trimmed off enough material using that Dremel dol keeping in mind can't take a lot of plastic away. But the same time I don't want any plastic breaking off because three fins already broke off brand new flywheel band only ran it for I don't know 10 seconds.Is that for the air filter?
Jim
Just incredible... I'll give you credit for tenaciousness.It might be but not for the setup I have. But if you buy it brand new it looks like that. So the choke lever and going by another carburetor is very springy and somehow all the springiness of the carburetor which is brand new is gone out of it. The other thing, I'm pretty sure I went to the parts list that I've been using right along and I got a new flywheel fan, a new grill and a new cup that holds the flywheel bolt. And so what happened was when I started it. The plastic fins started breaking off the fins. Yeah started breaking off so I turn it off. According to the diagram, I have the right part number for flywheel fan, but I ended up taking a Dremel tool and reshaping it because it seems like part of the flywheel fan was overhanging the flywheel. It's interesting that the flywheel fan comes in three versions. Maybe for the same exact machine the LT 2000 but I was reading that. Oftentimes parts will change. Midstream during a production run of something and it gets confusing. I think with my lt2000 if you have one metal rod going from the mower deck to the chassis between the two front tires then that means I believe the belt length is 101 in, but if you have two rods coming off the mower deck going to the front of the chassis you need a 96-in belt or something similar. The second time around I was able to get the 11-in belt and it seems to work pretty good. But the point is the flywheel fan kit which is a Briggs& Stratton part. It's not the right flywheel fan for the engine housing. I don't have the part number off top of my head but there's only one part number designated in the whole schematic for the flywheel fan and they basically keep repeating it in the schematic. So tomorrow I will run it where no spark plug put everything back together and see what happens when I turn the starter if anything hits. But I trimmed off enough material using that Dremel dol keeping in mind can't take a lot of plastic away. But the same time I don't want any plastic breaking off because three fins already broke off brand new flywheel band only ran it for I don't know 10 seconds.
Jim
It might be but not for the setup I have. But if you buy it brand new it looks like that. So the choke lever and going by another carburetor is very springy and somehow all the springiness of the carburetor which is brand new is gone out of it. The other thing, I'm pretty sure I went to the parts list that I've been using right along and I got a new flywheel fan, a new grill and a new cup that holds the flywheel bolt. And so what happened was when I started it. The plastic fins started breaking off the fins. Yeah started breaking off so I turn it off. According to the diagram, I have the right part number for flywheel fan, but I ended up taking a Dremel tool and reshaping it because it seems like part of the flywheel fan was overhanging the flywheel. It's interesting that the flywheel fan comes in three versions. Maybe for the same exact machine the LT 2000 but I was reading that. Oftentimes parts will change. Midstream during a production run of something and it gets confusing. I think with my lt2000 if you have one metal rod going from the mower deck to the chassis between the two front tires then that means I believe the belt length is 101 in, but if you have two rods coming off the mower deck going to the front of the chassis you need a 96-in belt or something similar. The second time around I was able to get the 11-in belt and it seems to work pretty good. But the point is the flywheel fan kit which is a Briggs& Stratton part. It's not the right flywheel fan for the engine housing. I don't have the part number off top of my head but there's only one part number designated in the whole schematic for the flywheel fan and they basically keep repeating it in the schematic. So tomorrow I will run it where no spark plug put everything back together and see what happens when I turn the starter if anything hits. But I trimmed off enough material using that Dremel dol keeping in mindIs that for the air filter?
I was just thinking how I'm doing one thing and I get bogged down in something else like grinding down plastic fins off of flywheel fan. But the whole thing was getting a reading of oh on a thermal gun which means overheat. And I actually thought I had that problem solved few days ago.Just incredible... I'll give you credit for tenaciousness.
I've been following. Listen to the guys helping you. They are on the right trackIt might be but not for the setup I have. But if you buy it brand new it looks like that. So the choke lever and going by another carburetor is very springy and somehow all the springiness of the carburetor which is brand new is gone out of it. The other thing, I'm pretty sure I went to the parts list that I've been using right along and I got a new flywheel fan, a new grill and a new cup that holds the flywheel bolt. And so what happened was when I started it. The plastic fins started breaking off the fins. Yeah started breaking off so I turn it off. According to the diagram, I have the right part number for flywheel fan, but I ended up taking a Dremel tool and reshaping it because it seems like part of the flywheel fan was overhanging the flywheel. It's interesting that the flywheel fan comes in three versions. Maybe for the same exact machine the LT 2000 but I was reading that. Oftentimes parts will change. Midstream during a production run of something and it gets confusing. I think with my lt2000 if you have one metal rod going from the mower deck to the chassis between the two front tires then that means I believe the belt length is 101 in, but if you have two rods coming off the mower deck going to the front of the chassis you need a 96-in belt or something similar. The second time around I was able to get the 11-in belt and it seems to work pretty good. But the point is the flywheel fan kit which is a Briggs& Stratton part. It's not the right flywheel fan for the engine housing. I don't have the part number off top of my head but there's only one part number designated in the whole schematic for the flywheel fan and they basically keep repeating it in the schematic. So tomorrow I will run it where no spark plug put everything back together and see what happens when I turn the starter if anything hits. But I trimmed off enough material using that Dremel dol keeping in mind
I was just thinking how I'm doing one thing and I get bogged down in something else like grinding down plastic fins off of flywheel fan. But the whole thing was getting a reading of oh on a thermal gun which means overheat. And I actually thought I had that problem solved few days ago.
No doubt they have been. It's a very difficult situation. Course. You're doing the best they can. They're not here. They're not listening and seeing what I am and it's difficult but I'm pushing ahead forward with it. Fella mentioned carburetor it's interesting how that choke butterfly no longer has spring action to it. I can't figure that one out but I can say I ordered that carburetor maybe 5 days ago. I put it on as is and no more hunting and surging. It was amazing and now something happened to it and I'm wondering if right along. I've been using the right model number for the engine. I'm not going to post it right now but I have been filing one that has G2 as the suffix and it might actually be G1 because I just looked it up and there is a such a model that has G1 as the suffix. So maybe the flywheel fan is from the one that ends in G1? I bought the one meaning the flywheel fan that has the suffix of G2. But I will definitely reread the guy who mentioned all the very specific information related to the carburetor and see what I can take from that because I'm not a small engine mechanic but he didn't waste his words. Hopefully tomorrow I can go through all that as much as I can.I've been following. Listen to the guys helping you. They are on the right track
Jim
31P677-3373-G2 Briggs and Stratton Engine
I've been using this for many things, including the flywheel fan that doesn't fit and I'm wondering if I should be looking up something that ends in G1Jim, I'm having problems following your posts and visualizing what the issue is. You bounce back and forth with the engine 'not turning over'. That would mean it is not rotating when the key is turned. Then you state you 'have spark' or 'does not start'. This would mean that it is turning over, but not firing or starting..
I would check for compression first. Remove the spark plug and insulate the spark plug wire. Lightly put your finger in the cylinder plug hole and crank the engine. You should feel good size puffs of air forcing your finger out. Not an accurate test, but will indicate some compression. If compression is there, you could squirt a small amount of gas, or cleaner, directly into the cylinder. Replace the plug with a new one. Crank it and see what happens. If it does try and run, squirt more gas or cleaner into the carb intake. See if it continues.
If it won't run, then I would think not enough compression or leaking out the head gasket or valves. I wouldn't think timing as you said the key was already replaced. Most of the Briggs have the kill wire on the bottom of the coil and the coils orientation is stamped on the laminated metal. Removing the kill wire will eliminate safety's from being an issue. If you do get lucky and it starts, you'll have to choke it or pull the plug wire to stop the engine. Best of hunting.
I would check for compression first. Remove the spark plug and insulate the spark plug wire. Lightly put your finger in the cylinder plug hole and crank the engine. You should feel good size puffs of air forcing your finger out. Not an accurate test, but will indicate some compression. If compression is there, you could squirt a small amount of gas, or cleaner, directly into the cylinder. Replace the plug with a new one. Crank it and see what happens. If it does try and run, squirt more gas or cleaner into the carb intake. See if it continues.
If it won't run, then I would think not enough compression or leaking out the head gasket or valves. I wouldn't think timing as you said the key was already replaced. Most of the Briggs have the kill wire on the bottom of the coil and the coils orientation is stamped on the laminated metal. Removing the kill wire will eliminate safety's from being an issue. If you do get lucky and it starts, you'll have to choke it or pull the plug wire to stop the engine. Best of hunting.
Auto Doc's
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2024
- Threads
- 1
- Messages
- 118
"an awful banging going on every time there was a rotation" Can you say connecting rod broke?
Pull the plugs an put a finger in one plug hole at a time and see which one tries to blow your finger out when cranking. Beter yet, the tip of a spark plug will likely be damaged.
Pull the plugs an put a finger in one plug hole at a time and see which one tries to blow your finger out when cranking. Beter yet, the tip of a spark plug will likely be damaged.
oldntired55
Active Member
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2023
- Threads
- 15
- Messages
- 99
remove the sump and make SURE the timing gear on crankshaft keyway is not stripped. i went thru a similar situation with a briggs pressure washer engine