Briggs& Stratton engine will not turn over

[Zedo]

I found this in another form and I'm pretty sure the issue about taper applies to this engine completely. So having said that, I'm wondering if I just use the flywheel keys that I bought already rather than buying the specific model number that Briggs and Stratton recommends. This is kind of where I'm at right now with this. Try one of the brand new keys I have or just ordered the absolutely correct one and wait for that to arrive and pick the whole thing up again later?

"This is a tapered shaft, tapered flywheel fit. The key does nothing but line up the flywheel for timing purposes. It's not strong enough to hold while the engine is running. The only purpose for the key is to line up the flywheel until the nut is tight. You can run this engine without a flywheel key if the flywheel nut is torqued properly."

 

[Zedo]

I found this in another form and I'm pretty sure the issue about taper applies to this engine completely. So having said that, I'm wondering if I just use the flywheel keys that I bought already rather than buying the specific model number that Briggs and Stratton recommends. This is kind of where I'm at right now with this. Try one of the brand new keys I have or just ordered the absolutely correct one and wait for that to arrive and pick the whole thing up again later?

"This is a tapered shaft, tapered flywheel fit. The key does nothing but line up the flywheel for timing purposes. It's not strong enough to hold while the engine is running. The only purpose for the key is to line up the flywheel until the nut is tight. You can run this engine without a flywheel key if the flywheel nut is torqued properly."

OMG! That shaft is pretty well chewed up, the flywheel has to be a tight fit on that tapered camshaft. You CANNOT run that without a key as you described. The key is NOT tapered, it's broken off. Sorry to interrupt , but you are all over the map troubleshooting this engine. I got dizzy just reading your ( seems like100 posts ) comments. Take it to someone that knows what they are doing. Good Grief !

 

[Zedo]

You know I vaguely remember that from 3 years ago. I'm going to go back to that spec. Apparently 80 ft lb is incorrect. I also figured out my flywheel is tapered and from this other website entirely the guys saying it's mostly for positioning for the initial installation and he said you could probably run an engine without a flywheel key if you got the proper torque spec

 

[Zedo]

No you cant run an engine without a flywheel key OMG! NO! Why do you think they put one there, decoration? Please take the mower to someone that knows what the hell is wrong with it.

 

[JimP2014]

No you cant run an engine without a flywheel key OMG! NO! Why do you think they put one there, decoration? Please take the mower to someone that knows what the hell is wrong with it.

I'm sorry for the confusion on this. There was no intention to ever run the flywheel without a flywheel key. I was talking about what the purpose of it is. I would never run a flywheel without a flywheel key

 

[emartin1951]

In the last two weeks I've done many things, but in the meantime the current problem is this definitely getting spark to the spark plug after spraying carburetor cleaner into the intake while turning the key. The only thing that happens is backfire through the carburetor or popping the engine refuses to start. The only thing I can think of is the spark plug is definitely working, so I'm wondering if there's some kill switch that allows for the flywheel to rotate where it seems everything will start and engage flywheel and the engine. But at the very last second a kill switch shuts off everything and prevents it from starting. So in other words, I'm looking at carburetor problem but maybe I should be looking for some kill switch that's shorting out everything. It's as if all systems are go but at the last second this kill switch is preventing the engine from starting I wonder if anyone is familiar with this situation before. Also, the fuel solenoid definitely clicks when you turn the key but the carburetor cleaner going into the intake. Even if there's a kill switch situation on going, I would think the engine would start up for a couple seconds. I don't think a kill switch, even if active could prevent the engine from starting for at least a second or two, but that's what it seems like is happening.


Jim

Hello Jim,
Long time watcher of this forum but finally registered.
It sounds like your timing is off. There should be a stator key that may be partially sheared causing the spark but at wrong timing.
Just wondering if you check that.

 

[JimP2014]

I got the flywheel to 100 ft lb. I put everything back. I noticed there might be a problem with the threading for the spark plug hole but I found a spot where it actually can tighten okay but any further it would go back into being loose. But having said that the link above is the machine running and as il mentioned engine that is I need to put all the housing and all that back on but the temperature after maybe a couple minutes was like almost 800° f and I'm not sure if that's going to be an issue even with the the engine housing back in place.

Jim

 

[JimP2014]

Hello Jim,
Long time watcher of this forum but finally registered.
It sounds like your timing is off. There should be a stator key that may be partially sheared causing the spark but at wrong timing.
Just wondering if you check that.

When you say stator key, do you mean flywheel key? I know that right now has been torquing down to 100 ft lb and I just made a video of it running bare Bones, no blades running, no housing on the engine. Just does it run and so far it runs without any blades turning and I'm not sure for how long it will run. If just by getting hot it will shut off on its own. I'm not even there yet

 

[Zedo]

I'm sorry for the confusion on this. There was no intention to ever run the flywheel without a flywheel key. I was talking about what the purpose of it is. I would never run a flywheel without a flywheel key

That tapered crankshaft where the flywheel goes on is also tapered however I never seen a shaft that was chewed up like that apparently the key sheared and the flywheel was spinning on the shaft,(out of time ) that's when the engine would of shut down immediately. I've seen the key shear many times ( from hitting something ) rock, tree stump, curb, etc. and the slot that lines up with key has moved just a tad ( maybe a 64th of an inch , doesnt take much and the engine would run like crap, sometimes never start. I have a Kohler 22 HP and the key on mine is only 1/4 in square and an inch long. You can buy keys at any Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware . I keep a few on stock, I bought 4 in pack for 3 bucks , Briggs doesnt make a magical key, they are all the same material and are very soft for a reason, to shear when you hit something instead of bending the crank.

 

[IronTom]

How old is this clunker ? Once the spark plug hole is 'stripped', the threads will no longer mesh with the spark plug. You must purchase a new head & head gasket.
Don't waste your time & $$$ with doo-dads to 'fix' the stripped threads.
Now is the time to wire-brush the black carbon buildup off the piston & valves.
Carbon buildup causes 'miss-fires'. A miss-firing engine is soon-to-be-junk.
The old-boys call them a "clunker".