Okay, thanks for the tip on that. You know obviously comes down to 2200 bucks versus will a couple hundred dollars say $300 total? Will that? This is the way I'm proceeding. I can only tell you about 10 years ago I had a Briggs& Stratton with a cracked cylinder wall. I used JB weld on it and it actually ran and had compression which should not have worked I think.How old is this clunker ? Once the spark plug hole is 'stripped', the threads will no longer mesh with the spark plug. You must purchase a new head & head gasket.
Don't waste your time & $$$ with doo-dads to 'fix' the stripped threads.
Now is the time to wire-brush the black carbon buildup off the piston & valves.
Carbon buildup causes 'miss-fires'. A miss-firing engine is soon-to-be-junk.
The old-boys call them a "clunker".
Read this knowing I'm not a mower mechanic. However, since the plug is sparking you know its not electrical. The carb cleaner makes it try to start but it won't continue running. This tells me its fuel related. When you spray the carb cleaner in don't spray a lot. Just a brief hit. Its likely backfiring because of too much spray. I have used starter fluid for this purpose if my machine sets up over the winter. It helps. I would say you need to have that carb cleaned by someone who really knows about your engine or put a new carb kit in it. WHOA....770 degrees F? Are you sure? That seems way way to high to me.In the last two weeks I've done many things, but in the meantime the current problem is this definitely getting spark to the spark plug after spraying carburetor cleaner into the intake while turning the key. The only thing that happens is backfire through the carburetor or popping the engine refuses to start. The only thing I can think of is the spark plug is definitely working, so I'm wondering if there's some kill switch that allows for the flywheel to rotate where it seems everything will start and engage flywheel and the engine. But at the very last second a kill switch shuts off everything and prevents it from starting. So in other words, I'm looking at carburetor problem but maybe I should be looking for some kill switch that's shorting out everything. It's as if all systems are go but at the last second this kill switch is preventing the engine from starting I wonder if anyone is familiar with this situation before. Also, the fuel solenoid definitely clicks when you turn the key but the carburetor cleaner going into the intake. Even if there's a kill switch situation on going, I would think the engine would start up for a couple seconds. I don't think a kill switch, even if active could prevent the engine from starting for at least a second or two, but that's what it seems like is happening.
Jim
Just to be clear, I bought all kinds of new components. I would swap the new one in. I swapped the old one out. I swapped the old one back in. I swapped the new one in. It doesn't matter like all the old components are fine from what I gather
Read most of posts, you said you adjusted valves & think you were talking about top dead center on another mentioning valves. Valves are adjusted cold (70*) with piston heading down about 1/4" past TDC on the power stroke.Hello Forest, I'm waiting right now as we speak for a flywheel puller because I can't get the flywheel off and I'm not going to try and pry it anymore. So before I decide to take the flywheel off, the engine starts right up. That's not even an issue and then it starts going into loud explosions. I think coming out of the exhaust I messed around with the timing. Or should I say the valve clearance maybe 10 times? I have replaced the ignition coil. I've gone back to the old ignition coil. I have replaced the spark plug. I've gone back to the old spark plug. It's rc 12yc I bought a new carburetor. I use that I'm going back to the old carburetor thoroughly cleaned out the gas tank. The strain new gas going into it bought a new fuel filter and like I said loud explosions coming out of the exhaust. I've also fixed the valve cover with red high temperature sealant that is holding the electronic fuel solenoid works. At least it clicks. I don't know what happens when it's running. This is where the project is at so my goal is to put a new flywheel key on and hopefully it runs smoothly. Also it has sounded very tinny like something's wrong but I'm not a mechanic so whatever I hear it's not with someone else could point to and say yeah I know what that is because I don't know.
Jim
Thanks for this message. I can put the the original ignition coil back on there. Probably wasn't anything wrong with it. I just figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it. Actually a couple strands of wire were frayed up near the electronics of the ignition coil. That's why I replaced it in the first place. But I absolutely will think about this. I did replace it with something other than the original Briggs& Stratton ignition coil, but like I said I still have that.Dumb question here, but is it possible the ignition coil is on upside down? There is an up/down or in/out on the coil. This will screw up timing. It may not even run, depending on model.... OEM Coils are usually marked. Another thing I noticed on the parts warehouse link you included is there are three different coils for this engine. You would need to know the date code of your engine to be sure you have the correct coil if you replaced it.
Honestly, I've watched many videos on adjusting the valves and since I've spent so much time with this, the technique I like to use is where you send one push rod into the engine as far as it can go and watch that rocker arm. And when you know it's pretty much as far as it can go. You adjust the other valve and you do that twice. That's the technique I've used for a few years. And what you're describing is the official technique. I do realize that and now I have a spark plug problem with the cylinder head. So anything that can cut down on messing around with things I will use and the technique I described is the way I go about the problem. And actually, if you rotate the flywheel after you get done, you will see that you end up with say 4,000 on the intake and 8,000 on the exhaust and that's what I wanted. I don't see how this could be wrongRead most of posts, you said you adjusted valves & think you were talking about top dead center on another mentioning valves. Valves are adjusted cold (70*) with piston heading down about 1/4" past TDC on the power stroke.
I am sorry I was using carburetor cleaner. I can tell you that the most recent startup was without carburetor cleaner because everything was put back on the engine including the housing and it can't start without carburetor cleaner. I just wanted to make it easier for whatever is going on with the carburetor cleaner but it can start without it.Read this knowing I'm not a mower mechanic. However, since the plug is sparking you know its not electrical. The carb cleaner makes it try to start but it won't continue running. This tells me its fuel related. When you spray the carb cleaner in don't spray a lot. Just a brief hit. Its likely backfiring because of too much spray. I have used starter fluid for this purpose if my machine sets up over the winter. It helps. I would say you need to have that carb cleaned by someone who really knows about your engine or put a new carb kit in it. WHOA....770 degrees F? Are you sure? That seems way way to high to me.
It starts up perfectly fine without carburetor cleaner is what I was trying to sayI am sorry I was using carburetor cleaner. I can tell you that the most recent startup was without carburetor cleaner because everything was put back on the engine including the housing and it can't start without carburetor cleaner. I just wanted to make it easier for whatever is going on with the carburetor cleaner but it can start without it.
Jim