Briggs 17hp wont start and stay running

bertsmobile1

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I am not familiar with that 3M paper.
It looks a bit coarse , you won't be able to use any thing other than the 220 grit and even that might create a problem holding the valve strait whie you rub it on the paper.
The glass sheet is to keep it flat and you saturate the paper so it sticks on the sheet of glass.
Old car windows are good for this, scraps of laminated shop front glass is better is you have any glaziers handy.
To do the exhause vlave you will need realy hard & sharp abrasive.
Which when yu asked is why I mentioned carborundam, which is a brand name for Silicon Carbide abrasive paper .
It is grey in colour.

And yes that looks like the right stone.
To give you a rough idea about 100 figure of 8 strokes on the stone will take about 1/10 th of a thou off the end.
SO for 0.006" off the end you are looking at around 6,000 strokes + or - which will take quite a while , hence the suggestion of putting on your favourite music finding some where comfortable and try to reylax while doing it.
The inlets will gring down a lot faster than the exhausts so start with one of them
 

Daquiri_briggs

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haha sounds good, well... I will go pick up some of the Silicon Carbide abrasive paper... Then get the valves removed and start my Friday off right haha.
 

bertsmobile1

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The other alternative is to take them to a real mower repair shop or a head shop and ask them to knock 0.005" of each one, just so long as they were all touching when the valve was closed.
That will save you a lot of time but also cost money and you wil still need to finish the job yourself.
 

Daquiri_briggs

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ALRIGHT!! .... After alot of work I have them all done and to spec with the repair manual. Should I put it all back together now, or do I need to check other stuff?
 

Daquiri_briggs

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P.S, I wish I would have seen your message and just taken them to the shop hahaha. For whatever reason, I also cant get notifications from this thread to my email!
 

bertsmobile1

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ALRIGHT!! .... After alot of work I have them all done and to spec with the repair manual. Should I put it all back together now, or do I need to check other stuff?

Reassemble the valves into the cylinders.
Rotate the engine for a few miutes so they can settle in .
Don't run the starter for more than a minute continually
Then check the clearenes again, readjust if necessary.
Once you are happy they are good put it all back together.
 

Daquiri_briggs

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Similiar behavior, it started up once and ran how I would expect it to. Then the times after it wont start anymore. I still think it has something to do with that screw at the bottom of the carburetor. I think it is getting to much gas.

So, whats next.
 

Daquiri_briggs

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I checked again and the muffler was full of gas... I emptied it out, would that mean the float is to low or something?
 

bertsmobile1

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Yes.

The float is not touching the needle soon enough or the needle is not cutting off the fuel supply
If you have not touche the carb since you tried to start it last, pull the fuel ine off at the fuel pump and try blowing gently into it.
The float bowl should be full and you should not be able to blow throug the line because the needle should be closed.
Did you ben that tang exactly the way the book described it ?
 
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