Axle Shaft Came Out

[StarTech]

Now you understand why at times I change/fix flats while the rim are still on the axle when they stuck. Rust has a way of being a major pain in the rear. But the Acetone/Automatic transmission fluid seems to working better than anything else I have ever used.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

For stuck rims i center drill a dimple in the axle and use an air hammer to walk it off. Old tillers usually take the torch and air hammer.

 

[StarTech]

Whatever is done you got to keep from flaring the end of the shaft. Sometimes it is just easier to remove the axle and rim take to a hydraulic press. Even that can be dangerous to do. I lost a pair glasses last year because the amount pressure I was using when a spindle shattered. It least I had them on at the time, could have been an eye. I still haven't found one of the lenes.

But sometimes thing are just too welded together for even this to work. That the hubs are torque to 300 ft/lbs on tapered axle. The metal actually fuses together. There several hydros I had to remove them and remove the axle in order to change the axle seals. I even tried an expensive hub puller that JD said in one of their service manuals that would work. Well it didn't and the later JD service no longer has that info in it. $200 wasted on the tool as I still had to remove the hydro for seal replacement.

I recently brought a product that should be to dissolve the rust but it takes a few days to work. So far it cleaned up some very rust saw chains. Still experimenting with it.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Some saw chains get soaked in lye for a day and then evaporust. I charge extra for that. Of course some people think a $1000 chainsaw is a ditch witch. I have a guy that clears land and cuts Honeysuckle off 6" below ground with a stihl chainsaw. Another guy cuts lots of pine. His chains look like they were dipped in glue.
I haven't had to use the press to get a hub off. Torch and air hammer so far have got it done.

 

[StarTech]

That what Carbide chains are for. I took out 24 Bradford Pear stumps here. Of course I had to resharpen the chain using a diamond file.

But I haven't cut much in Pine so experience with that.

 

[amentac]

I'm going to re-use the shaft, the splined end didn't get damaged. I had to grind the other end so it will slide into the rim and I drilled a hole in it so I can put a cotter pin to retain the wheel.

 

[amentac]

Just wanted to give an update and hopefully help anyone else in a similar predicament. I was able to source that tiny ring washer from a local source. Got the transmission back together again and filled it with new oil. Put it back in the tractor and followed the purge procedures in the user's manual. Guess what, they don't work. Five seconds on the freewheeling position forward and reverse for three times doesn't work. There 's nothing worse than having your tractor not move after all that work. You have to go back and forth maybe 5 or six times and for longer, maybe 30 sec, before the oil fills all the air pockets and the transmission starts to work. Why don't they say that in the manual???

 

[StarTech]

It is not a wham, bam, thank you procedure. It does take multiple passes especially with worn parts.

 

[amentac]

Thank you, I see that now in the transmission manual. Just one question...how can you check the oil level when the transmission in in the tractor? Is there a way to get to that fill hole from the top?

 

[bertsmobile1]

No way to get the fill hole other than with a long length of hose
What most forget to do is raise the rear wheels so there is no resistance otherwise all that happens is the air trapped in the cylinders compresses & releases
One trans on a Pro Rider took 3 days to purge
On another I had to remove the breather and plug a vacuum hose in there because the oil just would not flow no matter what