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I was trying to remove a stuck wheel by banging it from the back and the axle shaft came out of the transmission. I think the retaining ring came off inside the transmission. I have the transmission out of the tractor, but before I start taking it apart (and get into more trouble) I wanted to ask if there's an easier way to put the shaft back in and, if not, can someone send me the instructions on transmission disassembly? Its an Hydro Gear Transaxle Model number 314-0510. tnx

Read over the service manual first.

https://mymowerparts.com/pdf/Hydro-...0710-Hydro-Gear-Service-and-Repair-Manual.pdf

Great, thank you

I've taken the cover off the transmission and found the broken retaining ring. Any idea where I can get a replacement?

Still this the ring? Item 40?


If so the Hydro Gear PN is 44871. Just Google "Hydro Gear 44871" for sources.

Yes that's it. I couldn't find it under the old part number 170393. Thank you.

amentac said:

Yes that's it. I couldn't find it under the old part number 170393. Thank you.

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Ahhh. Husqvarna part number that has been superseded. You will better price using the Hydro Gear PN.

In future and for the benefit of those who might be trying to remove a stuck wheel
Do not pull hard on the wheel or beat it from behind this risks repeating Amentac current problem.
Several methods but I like to put some thing behind the wheel to wedge it as far our as it wants to go ( I use 2 scissor jacks ) then hit the axel with a punch & a very heavy hammer .
When the wheel shift a bit forward put more pressure from behind then hit the axel again .
Repeat this till the wheel is off.
Lots of heat also helps

Plus a good penetrating fluid like Acetone/Automatic Transmission Fluid mixture helps a lot too.

Prepare to be entertained….

It’s a beautiful Friday morning, great day to get your tractor ready for winter. Need to install the snow blade and swap the wheels from my other tractor, they are bigger and I have wheels weights and chains for them. Easy job, one hour tops.

Right side wheels get swapped with no issues, but the left wheel on the receiving tractor is stuck. Start with the usual remedies, WD40, heat, wiggle it and bang it with a rubber hammer. One hour into it, it has not budget at all. Go to you tube, see someone using a air hammer. Go to Canadian Tire to buy one, (it’s on sale from $70 to $14, great bargain). Get home full of hope and get that air hammer pounding on the end of the shaft…nothing. Get wife to use air hammer while I’m banging on the wheel (she’s not too happy, not sure why). Still nothing, it hasn’t moved a fraction of an inch. Build a wheel puller using some chains, bolts and a scissor jack. Crank that up, there’s so much tension on it, I step aside in case it gives way and hurts me. The chain breaks…really? Get a bigger chain and bigger bolts, crank it up again, the scissor jack is…bending…no way, how can this be? While under tension, I use heat, WD40 and bang the wheels from the inside (as I’ve seen some people do on YouTube) and it finally gives way. But…ho no… the wheel is still stuck on the shaft, but the shaft has come out of the transmission. Check the tranny diagram, looks like the retaining pin inside the transmission has given way. Well, at least I should now be able to remove the wheel from the shaft, so I start banging on the wheel end of the shaft with a big hammer and a piece of wood. Wood splinters, shaft end gets damaged….NO MOVEMENT. It is at this point that it’s no longer about getting the job done, it’s man vs. machine and It’s not getting the better of me! Put a socket on the transmission end of the shaft (yup, the end with the nicely machined splines) and start banging the hell out of that. AND FINALLY, the shaft just pops out and ends up at the other end of the garage. I sit back and look at the carnage and realize I now have a transmission job on my hands….not a good day. And if that wasn’t bad enough, my dog tore his ACL jumping in the back of the car. I could have bought a new tractor with what I’m spending on vet bills.

I’m sure some of you have been there before…some days you should just stay in bed.

Now you understand why at times I change/fix flats while the rim are still on the axle when they stuck. Rust has a way of being a major pain in the rear. But the Acetone/Automatic transmission fluid seems to working better than anything else I have ever used.

For stuck rims i center drill a dimple in the axle and use an air hammer to walk it off. Old tillers usually take the torch and air hammer.

Whatever is done you got to keep from flaring the end of the shaft. Sometimes it is just easier to remove the axle and rim take to a hydraulic press. Even that can be dangerous to do. I lost a pair glasses last year because the amount pressure I was using when a spindle shattered. It least I had them on at the time, could have been an eye. I still haven't found one of the lenes.

But sometimes thing are just too welded together for even this to work. That the hubs are torque to 300 ft/lbs on tapered axle. The metal actually fuses together. There several hydros I had to remove them and remove the axle in order to change the axle seals. I even tried an expensive hub puller that JD said in one of their service manuals that would work. Well it didn't and the later JD service no longer has that info in it. $200 wasted on the tool as I still had to remove the hydro for seal replacement.

I recently brought a product that should be to dissolve the rust but it takes a few days to work. So far it cleaned up some very rust saw chains. Still experimenting with it.

Some saw chains get soaked in lye for a day and then evaporust. I charge extra for that. Of course some people think a $1000 chainsaw is a ditch witch. I have a guy that clears land and cuts Honeysuckle off 6" below ground with a stihl chainsaw. Another guy cuts lots of pine. His chains look like they were dipped in glue.
I haven't had to use the press to get a hub off. Torch and air hammer so far have got it done.

That what Carbide chains are for. I took out 24 Bradford Pear stumps here. Of course I had to resharpen the chain using a diamond file.

But I haven't cut much in Pine so experience with that.

I'm going to re-use the shaft, the splined end didn't get damaged. I had to grind the other end so it will slide into the rim and I drilled a hole in it so I can put a cotter pin to retain the wheel.

Just wanted to give an update and hopefully help anyone else in a similar predicament. I was able to source that tiny ring washer from a local source. Got the transmission back together again and filled it with new oil. Put it back in the tractor and followed the purge procedures in the user's manual. Guess what, they don't work. Five seconds on the freewheeling position forward and reverse for three times doesn't work. There 's nothing worse than having your tractor not move after all that work. You have to go back and forth maybe 5 or six times and for longer, maybe 30 sec, before the oil fills all the air pockets and the transmission starts to work. Why don't they say that in the manual???

It is not a wham, bam, thank you procedure. It does take multiple passes especially with worn parts.

Thank you, I see that now in the transmission manual. Just one question...how can you check the oil level when the transmission in in the tractor? Is there a way to get to that fill hole from the top?

No way to get the fill hole other than with a long length of hose
What most forget to do is raise the rear wheels so there is no resistance otherwise all that happens is the air trapped in the cylinders compresses & releases
One trans on a Pro Rider took 3 days to purge
On another I had to remove the breather and plug a vacuum hose in there because the oil just would not flow no matter what

It really depends on the manufacture so do have access to these fill holes especially some the new mowers. But it best to prime off (Bench) the tractor if possible but you must have the equipment to spin the input pulley up to 3000 rpms. I will be testing using a 500 rpm drill later here as that is currently the only large hand drill I have. I believe that drill will work as I hand primed the last hydro.

And in the manual, they put the comma in the wrong place
it should have read
"with the engine running slowly, move the handles "
Purging is best done at low revs to avoid frothing the oil to start with then once you have enough oil in the system to drive the wheels then you increase the speed .
Off the mower I purge using a pedistal drill starting at 500 rpm.

bertsmobile1 said:

And in the manual, they put the comma in the wrong place
it should have read
"with the engine running slowly, move the handles "
Purging is best done at low revs to avoid frothing the oil to start with then once you have enough oil in the system to drive the wheels then you increase the speed .
Off the mower I purge using a pedistal drill starting at 500 rpm.

Click to expand...

Thanks I was hoping the 1/2 hp low speed drill would work. Just got to get a bit adaptor to 1/2 square drive now so I can use the sockets.