44P777 Engine Pulley

PTmowerMech

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Thanks everyone. I tried a pulley puller and it started to bend the pulley so I stopped. If I used heat and the puller, I feel like the pulley would bend alot easier. What the difference between a bearing and pulley puller?

I've tried putting the bolt back in and the air hammer.

I guess I gotta find a torch.

If it started to bend, then it's probably already bent too much.


MapGas.jpg
 

rrkpitt15

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If it started to bend, then it's probably already bent too much.


View attachment 66483
Found an old acetylene tank in the garage from my grandpap. Heat didn't work. I tried cutting it but can't get close enough without hitting the shaft or the frame (I ordered a new pulley). Time to get a bearing puller and try that.
 

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bertsmobile1

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et a Dremmel type tool with a cut off wheel
Cut a slot as far as you can over the top of the key slot in the crankshaft to avoid damage
A dremel with a flexi drive will get a lot closer to the pulley
once cut heat it red hot and then give it some taps with a fine point cold chisel to spread it a little
Needless to say this will destroy the pulley and when you replace it a goodly amount of anti sieze will go a long way to preventing a repeat performance
Pressure washing mowes is the single biggest cause of those pulleys rusting on solid.
 

Rivets

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Old farmer’s method I’ve used is. Remove 4 engine mounting bolts. Get or make 4 wedges, loggers wedges work great, and insert one wedge under each corner of the engine. DO NOT PLACE THEM UNDER THE EARS WHERE THE BOLTS GO THROUGH, YOU’LL BREAK THEM OFF. Slowly drive each wedge in keeping the engine level. This will bring the pulley up stopping at the frame. Hammering on the pulley with this even pressure
 

Hammermechanicman

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I use a bearing separator and apply pressure to the end of the crank with it and then use an air hammer on the center bolt of the separator. Sometimes bends the pulley but always gets it off. Never had to use the oxy/acetylene wrench.


When in doubt. Bigger hammer.
 

rrkpitt15

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I bought some new parts because I need to change the head along with some other things. One of the tappets came with rust on it.

Do you think It would be fine if I sanded it down or should I ask for a new one?
Old farmer’s method I’ve used is. Remove 4 engine mounting bolts. Get or make 4 wedges, loggers wedges work great, and insert one wedge under each corner of the engine. DO NOT PLACE THEM UNDER THE EARS WHERE THE BOLTS GO THROUGH, YOU’LL BREAK THEM OFF. Slowly drive each wedge in keeping the engine level. This will bring the pulley up stopping at the frame. Hammering on the pulley with this even pressure
I was actually thinking about doing this but use my front loader and straps to lift it up and apply pressure before using a wedge.

I just bought a bearing puller and going to try that first.
 

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Freddie21

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Here, in the US, you can free rent these at most auto parts chains.
 

TRACTORTOWN

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Thanks everyone. I tried a pulley puller and it started to bend the pulley so I stopped. If I used heat and the puller, I feel like the pulley would bend alot easier. What the difference between a bearing and pulley puller?

I've tried putting the bolt back in and the air hammer.

I guess I gotta find a torch.
You take a angle grinder and carefully not to damage the crankshaft, cut the pulley off, buy a new pulley and seal they aren’t that costly. It is the fastest, most economically way. The pulley is already misshaped and you will have belt issues now. Replace the crank seal either way. When reinstalling apply a thin coat of never seize to the crankshaft to prevent a similar problem again.
 

Gord Baker

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This worked for me. Hang the front of the tractor a couple inches off the ground by the Engine? Put a bolt and washer back in the shaft
Heat near the shaft and quench a couple times and use an Air hammer on it. You have the weight of the tractor frame and front end pushing on the pulley which is up against the bottom plate. Good Luck.
 
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