Export thread

HUSQVARNA Ez5426 zero turn
Briggs 44P777

I'm trying to pull the motor and this pulley will not come off. It runs the hydraulic pumps for the steering. It's above the clutch.

There is a keyway, am I missing a set screw? I didn't see any on the schematic. I've tried a puller, PB Blaster, and an air hammer. I don't have a welder or torch.

Any tips or tricks?

rrkpitt15 said:

HUSQVARNA Ez5426 zero turn
Briggs 44P777

I'm trying to pull the motor and this pulley will not come off. It runs the hydraulic pumps for the steering. It's above the clutch.

There is a keyway, am I missing a set screw? I didn't see any on the schematic. I've tried a puller, PB Blaster, and an air hammer. I don't have a welder or torch.

Any tips or tricks?

Click to expand...

I doubt it's got a set screw. The only way I know for sure, is to use a torch and heat it up. Put the bolt back in the bottom and use an air hammer.

A video I watched a few years ago, shows the guy heating one up with a torch, then cooling it off real quick with water from a garden hose. Heat expands the steel. And the cold water not only retracts it, but it cools it off enough so that you can get your hand around the pulley and pull on it while you air hammer it. Putting a pry bar on it is risky business if it's hot.

You'll probably have to replace the seal if you're going to reused that engine.

There is no set screw , use a 3 pronged puller and put some heat on it - concentrate the heat near the shaft area or you'll bend your pully on the outer area , keep applying pressure with your impact and keep your torch moving.
I don't think a small propane torch will do but maybe worth a try if you don't have access to a real torch rig.

Never had any luck using a 3 jaw puller on sheet metal pulleys without bending them. I have used a bearing separator with an air hammer to get pulleys like that off.

Even then some requires heat and I usually destroy the pulley in the process.

Even then some requires heat and I usually destroy the pulley in the process.

StarTech said:

Even then some requires heat and I usually destroy the pulley in the process.

Click to expand...

You can say that again.

Thanks everyone. I tried a pulley puller and it started to bend the pulley so I stopped. If I used heat and the puller, I feel like the pulley would bend alot easier. What the difference between a bearing and pulley puller?

I've tried putting the bolt back in and the air hammer.

I guess I gotta find a torch.

Bearing puller will apply force at the thick part of the pully near the shaft and will not damage the outer edges of the pully

rrkpitt15 said:

Thanks everyone. I tried a pulley puller and it started to bend the pulley so I stopped. If I used heat and the puller, I feel like the pulley would bend alot easier. What the difference between a bearing and pulley puller?

I've tried putting the bolt back in and the air hammer.

I guess I gotta find a torch.

Click to expand...

If it started to bend, then it's probably already bent too much.

PTmowerMech said:

If it started to bend, then it's probably already bent too much.


View attachment 66483

Click to expand...

Found an old acetylene tank in the garage from my grandpap. Heat didn't work. I tried cutting it but can't get close enough without hitting the shaft or the frame (I ordered a new pulley). Time to get a bearing puller and try that.

et a Dremmel type tool with a cut off wheel
Cut a slot as far as you can over the top of the key slot in the crankshaft to avoid damage
A dremel with a flexi drive will get a lot closer to the pulley
once cut heat it red hot and then give it some taps with a fine point cold chisel to spread it a little
Needless to say this will destroy the pulley and when you replace it a goodly amount of anti sieze will go a long way to preventing a repeat performance
Pressure washing mowes is the single biggest cause of those pulleys rusting on solid.

Old farmer’s method I’ve used is. Remove 4 engine mounting bolts. Get or make 4 wedges, loggers wedges work great, and insert one wedge under each corner of the engine. DO NOT PLACE THEM UNDER THE EARS WHERE THE BOLTS GO THROUGH, YOU’LL BREAK THEM OFF. Slowly drive each wedge in keeping the engine level. This will bring the pulley up stopping at the frame. Hammering on the pulley with this even pressure

I use a bearing separator and apply pressure to the end of the crank with it and then use an air hammer on the center bolt of the separator. Sometimes bends the pulley but always gets it off. Never had to use the oxy/acetylene wrench.


When in doubt. Bigger hammer.

I bought some new parts because I need to change the head along with some other things. One of the tappets came with rust on it.

Do you think It would be fine if I sanded it down or should I ask for a new one?

Rivets said:

Old farmer’s method I’ve used is. Remove 4 engine mounting bolts. Get or make 4 wedges, loggers wedges work great, and insert one wedge under each corner of the engine. DO NOT PLACE THEM UNDER THE EARS WHERE THE BOLTS GO THROUGH, YOU’LL BREAK THEM OFF. Slowly drive each wedge in keeping the engine level. This will bring the pulley up stopping at the frame. Hammering on the pulley with this even pressure

Click to expand...

I was actually thinking about doing this but use my front loader and straps to lift it up and apply pressure before using a wedge.

I just bought a bearing puller and going to try that first.

Here, in the US, you can free rent these at most auto parts chains.

rrkpitt15 said:

Thanks everyone. I tried a pulley puller and it started to bend the pulley so I stopped. If I used heat and the puller, I feel like the pulley would bend alot easier. What the difference between a bearing and pulley puller?

I've tried putting the bolt back in and the air hammer.

I guess I gotta find a torch.

Click to expand...

You take a angle grinder and carefully not to damage the crankshaft, cut the pulley off, buy a new pulley and seal they aren’t that costly. It is the fastest, most economically way. The pulley is already misshaped and you will have belt issues now. Replace the crank seal either way. When reinstalling apply a thin coat of never seize to the crankshaft to prevent a similar problem again.

This worked for me. Hang the front of the tractor a couple inches off the ground by the Engine? Put a bolt and washer back in the shaft
Heat near the shaft and quench a couple times and use an Air hammer on it. You have the weight of the tractor frame and front end pushing on the pulley which is up against the bottom plate. Good Luck.

PTmowerMech said:

If it started to bend, then it's probably already bent too much.


View attachment 66483

Click to expand...

I have one that we spent 13 hours removing it in pieces. I wish OEM's would use never seize on these. It came in pieces and I suggest you order one now. I redirect prior comments in this fashion. 1) get a can of freeze 2) EVEN A PROPANE WILL HELP 3) heat pulley then hit crankshaft with freeze it or if you cannot find it, hit shaft with spray of water or if fire can be controlled, low flammable solvent. This temp difference gives shink/expance differences and at that moment try best methods to get pulley off. repeat till success or you get the new pulley in hand hand get really involved!!!!!!!!!!

rrkpitt15 said:

HUSQVARNA Ez5426 zero turn
Briggs 44P777

I'm trying to pull the motor and this pulley will not come off. It runs the hydraulic pumps for the steering. It's above the clutch.

There is a keyway, am I missing a set screw? I didn't see any on the schematic. I've tried a puller, PB Blaster, and an air hammer. I don't have a welder or torch.

Any tips or tricks?

Click to expand...

You can try heating up the pulley shaft (enough to melt wax) and not enough to mess up the seal, take the heat away, and put a candle above the pulley to melt a candle down the shaft - the wax usually goes down the shaft and helps release the pulley with a lot less effort required- I know it sounds crazy, but it worked a few times on a transaxle pulley I could not get off
I hope it works for you

BFH