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well i got the carb cleaned out. the carb was clean enough to eat out of, but there was a piece of grass like trash in the fuel inlet tube just before the float needle clogging it up. after it was all cleaned out and i tested it, i was shocked just how little flow there is in those tiny jets...

ok i found a video that shows my setup and explained how it all works off the muffler temp and how it should move so now i know that the throttle can be all the way forward on these engines without worrying about it applying the choke at all this is the video showing how they work in case...

i have the governor spring and it seems to work good now but the engine starts and runs for about 20-25 seconds then just dies im assuming its a fuel issue with a stuck float so i will have to pull it apart to clean it only thing im not sure of is if the throttle connected to operating the...

sorry it took me so long to reply, i have been busy there is a purple wire in the loom that goes out the hole towards the engine all you need to do is cut that purple wire right around where the small red battery wire goes into the harness by that white plug and splice a new wire onto it and...

it seems like they all do at some point. i dont like bypassing safeties but i never could resolve if it was the blade safety, deck safety, or rear axle safety or a combination of more then one that was the issue so i solved the problem my own way and it seems this is only an issue on the turtle...

ya i mean its kinda crazy how they use such a weak wimpy engine on them now but all the newer turtle style mowers had these engines. the older ones never had anything less then a 10hp on them used to be 25" deck - 8hp, 28" deck - 10hp, 30" deck - 13hp now its 28" deck gets that weak 10lbs...

damnit man you jinxed me, my dads turtle just did the same thing as yours was doing, no matter what you did, letting foot off the brake it just dies, whether in gear or not, blade on or off, it didnt matter. of 8 turtles i have owned, this makes 4 of them i had to bypass the safety kill switch...

well the older 25" mowers came with the B&S 8hp the 28" had the B&S 10hp and the 30" often had the kohler 13.5hp on the newer mowers now they are almost exclusively 28" with B&S 11.5hp and i have two of the 33" and one has the B&S 12.5hp and the other has the B&S 11.5hp i was thinking too...

white smoke is often a sign of flooding. try this, loosen the carb so it isnt touching the engine and hs a gap, then watch it and see if it starts dripping gas from carb saying its flooding. chances are the float needle isnt sealing to shut off the gas when its full

?????? its on a rear engine 28" deck riding mower and normally they have a 10hp on the 28" decks like this one so thats why i thought it was a 10hp the 33" deck rer mowers usually have 11.5hp engines on them but the 25" decks do sometimes have the 8hp engines

first it only needs to be the one of those wires that goes to the kill wire for the magneto i just seem to always pick the wrong one, so i just cut both to save time lol. you are just eliminating the kill switch circuit on the mower and going straight from ignition switch to the magneto coil...

yes it will, i have put up to 17hp inteks on them from troy builts, when i needed an engine, i just buy a murray or craftsman riding mower with bad deck and then take the 13 hp & 14hp engines off them to replace a bad engine for the snapper. any intek from 8hp up to 19hp will fit, mount...

yep, its a really easy thing to do to replace the head gasket its a fairly common failure

honestly i have 4 of those turtle mowers and 2 of them had endless kill switch issues, one would randomly shut off just when turning, and the other would just shut off when you hit a bump. i cut the two purple wires coming from the key switch inside the harness under the seat next to the brake...

ah, ok i thought it was such a tiny engine to be 10hp, but it says 10.00 on the sticker the way they play games with those engine numbers now, its hard to tell what they are

ok, thanks thats what i meant to call it guess im getting senile in my old age lol

thank you kindly sir whats the spring on the right? is that the throttle return spring?

i just got a RER snapper riding mower with 10hp B&S 14D937-0101-G1 engine and the guy had zip ties holding the governor because the governor spring was missing i ordered a new governor spring for it, but i cannot find anything online that shows me where and how to connect the governor spring to...

welp, whatever the issue was with that china PTO, it was replaced with another PTO and its working fine now no sign it was slipping on the shaft, even though the key way hump on it barely stuck out the thickness of a finger nail maybe the clutch itself was garbage, dont know and honestly...

thank you, your experience and your knowledge is greatly appreciated here by me and i think all who come here for help

well i had the mower given to me with a bad engine and it appears the PTO is (im guessing) a recently new aftermarket chinese one but doesnt seem to fit the shaft at all. im just gonna replace it with something not made in china. odd thing is the PTO worked great at first after i put another...

thats 100% on you, as mentioned by others, when parts get over $100 you confirm with owner and get authorization no matter if they said "do whatever it needs" because in almost every case, in their mind, saying that meant dont go over $100 on parts

its the seat switch, if your butt isnt in the seat it kills the mower as soon as you engage the blades, sometimes the plug to the switch isnt fully pressed o on also check if its in reverse if its not the seat switch

turns out you were right bert, PTO clutch isnt the problem, its the keyway inside it after more closer look it seems the PTO key was slipping around the slot and not holding fast thats rather odd but i guess its a cheap chinese replacement or something because the bump is not protruding much...

so carb cleaner is ok? i was scared carb cleaner might mess up the electrics or should i go buy some brake cleaner to be safe?

it has a brand new belt, the PTO pulley was wiped off with a rag and carb cleaner to remove any oil residue as were the deck pulleys, the belt is tight and fully on all pulleys i can see it working and everything is in order but the PTO pulley is not turning full speed of crankshaft when it...

i have a 20hp twin briggs that had a blown head gasket that soaked the entire front end above and below i cleaned it all up and replaced the belts and everything is functioning ok except the PTO that was working perfectly before all this happened now the PTO is only turning the blades at...

i found the same thing, its not from the governor so it has to be part of the cam. the replacement cam has nothing like it so i assume its only on the oem cams when built

rewatch the video, i do recall somewhere in it he said if you put something in backwards forward would be reverse and reverse would be forward. maybe im mistaken but if not you might be able to flip that part to convert it clock wise and/or counter clock wise to work correctly

so it came with the issue and you didnt return it to get one that works correctly? that sounds like a silly decision, but i think we all made those decisions to live with something that isnt quite right from time to time i do recall something can be installed backwards and cause operational...

pull valve covers and confirm one set of valves hasnt come loose, these engines will run great on just one cylinder so check the obvious most common things first like a valve adjustment coming loose

what i found makes the job easy is get a 3/4" metal plumbing pipe about 2ft long and two short sections of chain with nut and bolt to make two loops around the pipe with, then slip one chain and pipe over one blade end and then the other end of the blade to make a sort of blade extension then...

a whole list of things my guess would be a restricted screen or weak pump not allowing good pressure flow "what" the issue is, would be more about your curiosity rather the troubleshooting , since once you open those things up its a total rebuild or you will inevitably be going back into it again

this ^^^^ i find with 24hp engines they can have either sized shaft (1"x 3" or 1 1/8"x 4") but often anything above 24 hp has a larger and longer crankshaft output shaft.

this is pretty common, the brake has rusted pins that press on the brake pads, when you adjusted it you forced them shut and now the rust has them jammed so they wont release. take the brake assembly off, remove the 1/4" steel pins, clean the rust off of them and clean any corrosion out of the...

these things...

some decks use fixed blade positions and some dont, put the blades on in opposite angles with one east to west and the other north to south and that should fix it if its the blades hitting but it has to show a bare metal spot or "something" where its contacting on metal. also be sure any metal...

ok then, since no one will say if it should or shouldnt work im going to order the 1" to 1 1/8" sleeve adapter and 1"x 1" spacer to convert the crankshaft to use the correct pulleys for the mower and have them positioned properly

its a craftsman fs5500 listed as a 24hp engine with 1 1/8" shaft by 4 1/8" long but came with no engine in it at all but does have the 1 1/8" drive pulley and pto i put a B&S 20hp twin in it with 1" shaft by 3 1/8" long and a 1" drive pulley and pto, which worked, but keeps throwing belts, so...

i have several motors with the 1" x 3" shaft size but i have a particular mower that is set up to require the bigger 1 1/8" x 4" shaft for the pulleys to fit and line up correctly for the pto and the drive pulley to fit my question is, i have seen the shaft reducers that can convert it from 1"...

i have several motors with the 1" x 3" shaft size but i have a particular mower that is set up to require the bigger 1 1/8" x 4" shaft for the pulleys to fit and line up correctly for the pto and the drive pulley to fit my question is, i have seen the shaft reducers that can convert it from 1"...

check facebook marketplace and buy a used mower with a bad deck or bad tranny and good running engine you can see and hear run, then take the engine off of it. you can find quite a few of them for $100-$150 and they can often have extra spare parts you need like tires and seats hardest part on...

sounds like a return spring underneath there came loose or broke time to pull the deck and crawl under there for a look around

i bet you dislodged old film built up inside the hose when you were moving it around replacing the filter i always try to move the hose as little as possible to avoid that but you need to pull the carb and take the bowl off to clear out the trash thats in there causing the miss

loss of drive up hills is a belt issues unrelated to your other issues you dealt with already

well that is just it, in my case and possibly yours as well, the positive wire has full voltage and amp capacity but the ground wire to mower frame bad connection was where no amps are being allowed to flow. the ground wire is where you need to look. hook jumper cables from battery ground to the...

this ^^^^^^ i just spent a day chasing the same symptoms as you even after i replaced the battery so next i replaced the solenoid and no joy, then the wire from solenoid to starter and still not working so i replaced the starter and still does nothing but click (all were confirmed good working...

this is your problem, every drop of gas that went missing from the gas tank is now inside your engine case and thats stopping it from moving correctly. buy a new carburetor for it ($16 on ebay) and change the oil and filter before you even try starting it again

this ^^^^^^ they have a compression release lever on the cam and they are well known to break and fall off, confirm its not bumping open the intake valve (a tiny little extra bump is all it is) so watch carefully for it as you rotate the engine by hand when its not working the engine will stop...

well my only concern was the big drop in hp from 22 hp down to a 14.5 hp if you think the 14.5 hp kawasaki has the power and the torque to run it then i will leave it be and just see what the carb issues are i have a spare B&S 18.5 hp single and a B&S 20 hp twin engine not being used so either...