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That's absurd for that basic mower even with the attachments that look to me like the mower probably isn't big enough to handle. Buy a pretty nice new mower for that money.

That engine with that automatic choke should have a thermostat on the exhaust outlet right at the muffler inlet. Will hold the choke open with the engine warmed some. Might check this to see if it's working.

Do you get locked out of many sites because of the adblocker? I'm starting to get a lot of this with the Ghostery blocker.

The backfiring tells you it has spark, fuel and compression. Not at the right time. I've seen plastic cams and even a plastic drive gear on the crankshaft. Looks like you've hit all the other things it could be. Internal?

I wonder if that banner is a sort of click bait, see how many respond by clicking on stop or wait in the message? Has to be some reason for that to continue interrupting the forum.

Went over to the shed and snapped a picture. Looking from the front just under the corner of the battery. Circular hooked end is toward the rear and hooks into the frame, offset hook goes into the brake rod to pull the brake pedal all the way back up.

i've also had problems with a valve seat coming loose, runs ok but does what you're describing. The seat can be put in place and staked to secure it. Maybe a 1 in 100 chance this is it - thankfully.

That blade looks better than what I've been using for years. Usually takes a couple resharpening to get it out of balance to where it would be noticed.

How old is this machine? Sometimes an older unit will have the little gas line break off in the tank where it attaches to the filter, could maybe cause this. Probably not but wouldn't hurt to check that fuel line.

On my L130 the orange brake lock does not release by itself usually, have to push it back down.

You generally want the spark plug facing up.

I'd suspect the coil, pretty common failure these days. But I'd also try a new spark plug first.

You're assuming there is pure gas available. Not in this area that I know of except possibly at our little airport, Avgass, maybe? I get what I get and run it in everything. No problems and our 2109 Tahoe has averaged right at 23 mpg since new on BP silver.

Being an OHV engine it is a fairly new design motor and the carb is probably built to be non-adjustable and have an automatic choke. Choke would be mostly shut when motor is cold and not running. For speed control you can usually see a spring on the carb linkage that is attached to a metal tab...

I'd guess those bulbs got wet while hot. Don't know the explanation for this but seen it a lot in some of my junk. Are those lights always on when the motor is running? Battery light might be completely separate issue.

To swap motors you basically remove the operator cable, put a clamp on the recoil start rope so it won't rewind back more and take the end off the handle bar, remove the blade, take out the three mounting bolts, trade motors. Sometimes the mounting bolts are a tough chore, as said before soak...

Might take out the plug, spray in some starting fluid, replace plug and see if it starts and quits. If so probably a carb or fuel supply problem. That red round button on the air cleaner is a primer, push it several times before starting.

That mower is dangerous in my opinion. I'd find another mower on Craigs list or FB marketplace with a blown engine - for cheap - and do a transplant.

That's a tough question to answer. Those hours add up to about 10 years of homeowner use. Lot of mower for the money though, and a commercial build. But you say you're not really up on lawnmowers so I'd go with the above reply. Add some money to this and buy a new mower that will suit your...

Tuff Torq recommends a 5w50 synthetic oil for the K46 boxes. Same basic unit (I think). There are a couple magnets inside the case on these and can have some serious build up on them. Best to remove, split the case and clean out the insides. Usual recommendation is to drain the oil, measure...

Had several (4 or 5) B&S motors torn down in the last couple years with the cylinder and piston skirts just destroyed. The top 1/2" of the bore where the actual piston doesn't ride is still decent on these. One new shortblock ran for one season. But I do see old Kool Bore motors worn out that...

Still screwed up here.

It really surprises me that those old hydros actually sell for a couple hundred dollars on ebay. The much maligned Tuff Torq K46 crap even sells.

If it's sparking at the cable you have either a loose connection or a corroded cable inside the terminal I suspect.

One nice thing about this forum actually. A question usually gets answered without turning into a roast after three or four postings, unlike many other forums.

Then there are the videos created to show one certain function or repair tip that start out with 5 minutes of mumbo jumbo before they show what screw to turn. Good that we can click on the time line and go past all that.

Probably a pretty decent tool and would meet your needs. But that $90 replacement battery, or $120 for a more powerful one, would sure hurt if the OE battery gives out just out of warranty. I have a couple older battery trimmers and have to admit, they sure are handy. And quiet!

Does this motor have a compression release for easy starting? Sometimes valve adjustment is critical for for this to actually work. Hopefully someone with more knowledge than me will look into this.

How many hours on that John Deere rider? Sure looks like new. Those mowers cut really well too.

One thing to think about. Hit up a local recycle or scrap metal dealer. Around here they usually have a stack of old mowers, sell parts or the whole mower dirt cheap. I've got really good wheels and a carb for for a couple dollars. Scrap value is almost nothing these days so selling a few...

I remember those punch cards too. We had a plate burner that we programmed with the punch tape deal. Pretty amazing machine back in the day, but some work in getting the program together. Site is working fine today, so far. Edit - spoke too soon, it's back.

I've used this place for some pretty obscure parts over the years. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/lawn-equipment-parts.html

But sometimes being the village idiot takes off a lot of pressure.........

I checked around and couldn't find anything different, went with 6 intake and 7 exhaust. No big loss if it smacks the lobes off the cam I guess. Bunch of old parts but a really good bore and long skirt chromed piston, unusual for a Kool Bore these days seems like.

Putting this little engine back together, generic 12 cu. in. L head vertical motor. Checking valve lash and getting .003 on both intake and exhaust with the plastic cam. Old book I have calls for 5-7 intake and 7-9 on exhaust. I haven't changed anything on the motor, do the plastic cams run...

This is from an older single cylinder Briggs manual:

Can't go wrong with more power! Those are pretty good engines too. I'd go with it. Only problem might be if you'd hit a tree root and kill the whole machine maybe.

Later today I'll take a look at my mower and see how it's wired, if anything shows up that might help I'll post.

Yep, you are right. Shows something down in that corner when the yellow banner comes on. Hadn't noticed that. Thanks!

Might get this direct from B&S, but they sure are proud of their manuals, $25 for one I looked at for a 12cc single.

Anyone else getting this message on Firefox? Searched around and seems to be from a tracking site of some sort? Problem with the site or here on my end?

Something to try. Get it all ready to go, let out the clutch and with your toes pull back on the clutch pedal. Sometimes will add tension on the belt and increase bite on the pulleys. With the hydro I can't see what turning the fan a bit would make any difference in that trans. I'm thinking...

Much like working on a late model car. Trouble hits and people assume a problem with some high tech electronics, might be a loose hose, bad connection, pinched wire, etc.

I like the Cub Cadet here. Might really do some serious shopping and get into a ZTX4 for the same money as the Exmark?

Love those old machines even though I've come close to getting sterilized a couple times by one of the handles while riding on the sulky (vulky?).

Not too many good looking big Buicks around, but that is a really good looking big Buick. And that ditch mower is something that can be real handy, beats the heck out of a weedeater, and the grass looks 100% better mowed.

Two things I see, internally vented carb, and symptoms of fuel starvation. But I'd get in touch with the dealer, or a rep. from Kubota, and get the mower in the shop and take home a loaner.

Working fine here with Firefox browser.

Somewhere there would be a release deal so you can push the tractor, something has to move to disengage. Take a look from that angle?

Get a spare bolt and grind a slight taper on the end of it, start it into the crank to dress the llead in threads.