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Exhaust valves always have more clearance than the intake valves. The last one I did I think I set the intake at .006 and the exhaust at .010 - test compression after to see what you have

The cap is usually vented , you can just loosen it up and try and see if it makes a difference

Pull off the cable connection at the carb- Move the throttle lever by hand until full throttle position, then move the throttle cable to Max speed then clamp down at that point, Now move throttle control and check for full travel , your new cable possibly doesn't have as much travel as your old...

I suspect fuel issue , start at the tank and work down to the carb , make sure the tank is vented and fuel line clear

No the spark plug

Pull your plug and make sure the machine rolls over easily, if it dose not there is a mechanical issue with the crankshaft - con rod - valves etc. If it does then look at your starter

Pull the starter and bench test it, clamp it down tight and put battery voltage on it , it should spin like crazy and almost jump off the bench if it's good.

I don't have access to the wiring diagram but one of the places the run wire goes is to the kill solenoid under the carb.

Sounds like a bad ignition switch , after starter is engaged it should go back to On position sounds like it's going to off and grounding the coil

Sounds like a bad ground or battery connection

Nice

Oh will , I don't have access to all the data you seem to have hope he figures it out with your help and input

Put a test light on your starter switch and make sure it's seeing 12 volts, then turn it to " On " and see where the 12volts show up on which terminal , this one would go to the kill solenoid at the carb, then move it to the start position and find out which terminal makes the test light come on...

Once you set your throttle to any position the governor should take over , you should be able to see the governor assembly floating back and forth to manage the machines speed, if it does not, it could overspeed and cause lots of problems and actually throw a rod and tear up your machine. If...

The ground wire to the ignition coil is how all the safeties and ignition kill make the engine die no matter the color

Sounds like your kill switch wire is shorted out to ground , chase it back to the ignition switch , pull it off there and test to ground I'm betting you find continuity to ground - if so just run a new wire and you should be ok

How long have you had this machine ? You should be able to tell if the idler pully is not there, All decks have an idler pully to keep tension on the deck belt , it also should " Float " freely to allow a little play.

I would swap the switch out with another and see if the problem goes away, the internals of the switch can't be cleaned if they get corroded , it sounds like yours is Wonky

Jump 12 volts to the small terminal on the solenoid where the starting circuit ties in from the ignition switch , if it engages the solenoid then you have a bad ignition switch or wire in that circuit

Small gas engines can test your patience for sure

Might look at the fuel line - Can't think of anything else you might have over looked, " filter ?" Tank vent ?

I've rebuilt a number of them , not sure what " plastic " he's talking about unless it's the bearing seal I've gotten complete spindle housings from amazon a few times with good results, If you get the nut removed you can knock the bearing out and get a number off them and order replacement...

I would say yes since the connection is open now with the damage, tie together should satisfy the circuit

You'll need a test light or volt meter before going any further, see if there is 12 volts at battery terminals , one side of solenoid should have 12 volts for starters then check for voltage at the starter switch

I ran into one of these auto choke setups and couldn't find a replacement, I added a Primer bulb to shoot a bit of fuel into the carb and it starts easily with out a choke , next time you try and start it squirt some starting fluid into the air intake and see if it starts up for you. It sounds...

Well then it's a safety switch, There are several to look at, Seat Clutch engagement Brake for starters but looking at your pics - you'll need to chase down the mating wires for those 2 red guys - these will be on the opposite plug so find out where they go first and should get you going in...

If everything works I wouldn't worry with them , if something doesn't work , there's your answer

Kubota has a lot of parts that cannot be swapped out with other brands I noticed.

Coils can stop working after getting hot ,sorta rare but happens sometime , when it happens again , see if there is still a spark at the plug , if not it's probably the coil

If it's firing shoot a little starting fluid in the intake and see if it starts for a few seconds if it does then it's fuel and don't rule out the plug even if it's new

Make sue it's not fuel related first , your tank vent possibly is plugged off , then check for fire if / when it happens again , still have fire , it's fuel related In my opinion

Good to have the schematics to reference Thanks for your input

Safety switches will not let your starter engage so not a safety switch issue , clean the magnets good on the flywheel and the coil where it relates to the flywheel magnets. There is a ground wire at the coil you can pull off and see if it sparks then , if it does it's not the coil

Doubtful , it's most likely the carb float / needle valve not seating as Rivets said

Grease all the areas you can , some spindles have zerks most do not , sharpen the blades and go for it .

Idler pullys are wide to allow for some mis alignment , as long as the spring tension lets the pully float it should be good in my opinion.

The primer bulb should pull from the tank and produce a small squirt of fuel into the carb throttle body you should be able to see and feel this action , if not it's probably sucking air .Once the machine starts there is a diaphram type of fuel pump which sees a pulse from the crankcase action...

Auto parts will have a " small engine" area and will have something for you

Something must have slipped on that lever action I suppose, pictures would help - Maybe just swap the carb with a new, I just got one for 14$ or thereabouts on Amazon for my Briggs

Disconnect the cable first and see if it's moving freely , these cables rust up internally over time , if ends up being the cable , pull both ends off and pull it back and forth around something round and lube it up good , it should free up , or buy another

If it spins over good and smoke is coming out of the exhaust, you're getting fuel to the combustion chamber, if you need starting fluid to make it fire all the time you may have a compression problem

Clarify please

Most don't have shut off valves , Just pull the supply line and stick a plug of some sort in it , best to get an in line valve and install it at this point for later. Have it ready with hose clamps and you should be good to go

Not sure how old your battery is but they're not good for more than 2 season at best in my opinion. The magneto / rectifier rarely go bad but it's possible.. If you put a volt meter on the battery will the machine running near full throttle ,it should read 14 volts or better, A true alternator...

You're not going to get any help from Bad boy, from your description you have a carburator problem or fuel problem , if it will only run while choked , it's starving for fuel, change out your fuel filter and pull the line off at the fuel pump and see if it's flowing freely. Most machines do not...

If a safety was giving you problems the machine wouldn't even turn over , click or anything else so you don't have a safety switch problem in my opinion, The PTO switch needs 12 volts on one of the wires , use a test light and hook it up to ground and touch off on each terminal of the switch...

I doubt you have an alternator as such , you most likely have a magneto / rectifier with voltage regulator, If you have 12 volts and no action from the battery it's going to be a safety holding you out or a bad connection Jump across the two big terminals on your solenoid and if it responds by...

Pull the plug and try to roll it over , if it still will not turn over, this engine is most likely seized, your blades are moving freely but does not mean your engine is rolling over.

Well now you know it's a fuel delivery problem , I'd start at the tank and work down from there , fuel lines , filter ,then carb. some fuel lines can collapse internally and cause problems,

Sometimes a faulty ignition coil will cut out after getting hot and cause it to die, after cooling off it will fire again Next time it dies after mowing and will not start , check to see if it's still firing, this should give you an idea if it's ignition or fuel