Recent content by slomo

Use what works for you but I prefer NGK. Not for nothing.

20 mule team Borax and plain old white sugar, 50/50 mix. Great for killing ants, termites and most other bugs. They like us go for the sugar and get the Borax sleeping pills LOL. Just sprinkle a little on a mound and they will take it to the queen. Bye bye..... Easy on the environment too.

camshaft time?

Appreciate you helping a fellow mower junkie out. (y)

Okay this is getting crazy. The main still sounds partially clogged. It does give a little more fuel and less air when choked down. Slightly smoothing out the engine. I hope you fully choked it down. Looking at the top of the carb. There is a choke plate which is physically away from the engine...

What I was getting at was if you lower the revs the battery might not charge proper. Keep her at 3600rpm. Some have a small charging coil of say 3 amps. One engine crank will take a while at topping off the battery at 3 amps.

yes

But it will outlast all the new battery mowers out there x10. Think we are in the polishing up stages.

Windoze can do it without any special big brother reporting apps.

Easy there. Think what Bert was getting at is any oil contamination is no good. I'm guessing, that internal brake is a wet brake design? Inside the pump motor? I don't know. I will never own any mower with hydros. Belts are so much easier and cheaper to maintain.

Did you set them incorrectly? There are 2 top dead center strokes on a four stroke engine. One valve all the way open or pushed into the head, adjust opposite valve. Rotate engine doing the same for the other valves. If one valve is open, other valves are safe to set.

Are you running this down at a low idle? Say when getting off to open gates? Moving into the garage or field? Trying to save gas? Trying to slow the mower speed down by lowering revs? That "new" battery will require load testing to confirm it is good.

That would be a baby mac with NO cheese at that price. LOL Thanks Kamala

All "new" parts require testing. I know you are in the middle of doing this. Just wanted to state the obvious. All new parts need tested to confirm they are good. Most everything is cloned in "Chyna" (Trump) as we all know. Counterfeit parts are all over the place.

Guy, can you see tiny holes in a black rubber hose? It needs to be pressure tested maybe shooting soapy water at it. "Looking" at most mower parts doesn't cut it for a true test.

Say it again Skippy. (y)

I know these are simple mower engines. Running a super hot plug could lead to pre ignition pings. Probably never happen in a mower engine. Not enough load I would guess. I would stick to the stock heat range and deal with the main jet sizing down from 112. Post up a pic or video of the fouling...

So choking down roughly 50 percent did nothing to smooth her out. That tells me the main jet or circuit might be clogged. Next test, choke it all the way closed like you just did in the last video. You should hear it stumble down in revs. If max choke does not stumble, confirms main circuit is...

Nope. She runs at say 3600 until she needs more fuel/air slash engine load. Governor system opens throttle in attempt to keep revs at 3600. That lever I think you are speaking about is the governor linkage. Take a picture of your carb linkage or video what you are referring to.

Agree. Some carbs offer high altitude mains for less fueling at altitude. In this case we see a variety of sizes.

So oil was perfectly on the FULL mark? Not one bit over full? One side of the stick over the full mark and the other not over FULL? Make sure, for testing, keep both sides of the oil dip stick below the FULL mark. Moral of this is keep her on the FULL mark, nothing more nothing less.

For the most part I agree. Some you can install a different main jet size or a high altitude version of it.

Blue smoke is burnt oil. Black smoke is rich excess fuel.