Recent content by JimP2014

31P677-3373-G2 Briggs and Stratton Engine I've been using this for many things, including the flywheel fan that doesn't fit and I'm wondering if I should be looking up something that ends in G1

No doubt they have been. It's a very difficult situation. Course. You're doing the best they can. They're not here. They're not listening and seeing what I am and it's difficult but I'm pushing ahead forward with it. Fella mentioned carburetor it's interesting how that choke butterfly no longer...

It might be but not for the setup I have. But if you buy it brand new it looks like that. So the choke lever and going by another carburetor is very springy and somehow all the springiness of the carburetor which is brand new is gone out of it. The other thing, I'm pretty sure I went to the...

It might be but not for the setup I have. But if you buy it brand new it looks like that. So the choke lever and going by another carburetor is very springy and somehow all the springiness of the carburetor which is brand new is gone out of it. The other thing, I'm pretty sure I went to the...

So I looked at a picture of the brand new carburetor and there is a hole on the carburetor with threads and there's nothing in it so maybe it came that way. Maybe nothing is missing except the choke lever no longer has any spring to it even though there's a spring

I can't upload the photo but there's a screw apparently I see and. So it's a brand new carburetor and I see threads looking down near the choke plate area on top and there's some sort of that might go in there. A screw goes in there I think and maybe that explains the extra air coming in

So it says four-cycle SAE 30 oil

So it says four-cycle SAE 30 oil. It's over where all the lawn mower stuff is at this big box store. Let's say I'm pretty sure it's the right thing

So I just went back outside and I want to be very specific about what happened. So I started the engine up which is no problem. I then pushed the throttle lever into the choke position and it started to struggle a bit which is what you had explained. So there's a fine line between the thing...

Forget about my square feet measurements. Let's say 220 ft long by 100 ft wide, whatever that equals. And that was like 15 to 20 minutes worth of cutting. And as I recall the temperatures were maybe 500° maybe 600 on the exhaust pipe when I got done

I just saw your response. Thank you. I will go check it out and report back here especially with the oil. But it's strange because I was able to cut maybe 1,200 square feet like 4 days ago. The blade wasn't really correct in various components but that took like maybe 20 minutes and everything...

So today July 30th 2024 I just ran it for about 5 minutes. I was actually cutting grass it seem like the governor was kicking in more than normal. I shut it down. I took the temperature with a thermal gun. The thermal gun can't register the temperature because it's too hot and the video above to...

I'm not sure about what you're saying but the box came today. It says Briggs& Stratton on it and it looks like it is identical. I threw the box away but it seems to me to be the same exact setup.

Well right now. Hopefully there are no issues. This has been 7 weeks of constant problems. I'm sure a small engine mechanic would have that solved and maybe the first 7 hours but the cooling fan or fins. The plastic fins plus couple other parts just came. So I'm going to put those on. The only...

And the only thing additional on this topic. Up until a couple months ago I had a digital tachometer mounted on the dashboard and where the blades fully engaged. This thing maintained a steady RPMs of around 3,500.

If anyone has ever done something similar, that's the question?

One thing I can say about high temperatures at the exhaust pipe. I was looking for thermal sensors for high heat and basically end up with a bunch of grilling tools but the idea was to wrap something around the exhaust pipe so I could see exactly what was going on and have the readout on the...

Don't you just love it when some people say something that makes so much sense other people jump. Jim

I am going to listen to what you said. There's no doubt about it so I will order that kit that comes with the plastic fins and that cup made out of metal and maybe one other thing

Thank you very much for your Stern warning. I was just going to run it with broken partially broken fins. I'm hoping right now since I don't even have the belt for the mower deck, but even running it for 5 or 10 minutes isn't going to do significant harm to it. I did run it maybe half hour ago...

So while all this was going on I was looking for something that I could use and I bought a used twin v. It's a yard machine. Overall I would say it's a very heavy very well-made machine. Hydrostatic 42-in 17 and 1/2 horsepower but it is a twin v and I didn't even want to try and fix that by...

Tonight was the first time I was able to drive the riding mower around the yard without any adjustment on the carburetor so I took a ride out of the box. It runs pretty good from having a tachometer on the machine, but not right now. I'm guessing it's probably running like 2800 RPMs without any...

I put everything back and I was just wondering about the temperatures so I have a thermal gun and I started the mower up. It starts up pretty good. No more hunting and searching so thanks to a brand new carburetor that issue seems to be resolved, but I'm still concerned about what happened 6...

Well after many attempts right now it seems to be running okay. The temperatures are still kind of high. A brand new carburetor from Amazon out of the box needed. No adjustments. It's the other one is probably garbage and I wouldn't know it because of so many things going wrong. But since I...

Turn the governor shaft clockwise they say

July 21st about 1:00 p.m. I made sure the governor was set correctly so throttle on high throttle turn the governor shaft to the left. Don't force it. Tighten it up. Made sure the intake manifold gasket was properly installed. That's tight. Brand new fuel line. Brand new fuel filter. Brand new...

Okay, thanks for this this explanation. I appreciate it. I did find when I put my hand over the plastic intake that's part of the carburetor. It definitely affects the hunting and surging and smooths it out. Closing the choke by hand on that butterfly has the same effect. It's just when you're...

Just did another test with a commercial fan blowing air away from the cylinder head and a thermal gun registered. OH that stands for overheating of the thermal gun so the temperature was up around 900° f. I have trouble believing this is all related to a carburetor, but I'm not ruining out that...

The only thing I will add is sometimes when I run it for a few minutes the temperature is under say 600° f and sometimes I run it and the temperature is up near 800° f and I can't figure out why that's going on? I use an external commercial fan for cooling because I have that engine housing off...

So right now I'm able to tame the hunting and surging by doing nothing more than adjusting by holding on to the black lever on the carburetor which controls the choke. But basically when you block off air, there's no more hunting and surging pretty much.

So I just watched the video on the actual filter and this guy claims he spoke to numerous Briggs and Stratton engineers. He said it doesn't matter except if you've been collecting dirt on one side in the filter and you reverse it because you're doing another install. All that dirt could end up...

Okay for that test. I was able to smooth it out a bit, but I want to repeat that test several times primarily to get more gas, get a better fuel line and make sure I have the fuel filter pointing in the right direction. But like I said, it seems as if when I control the throttle linkage with my...

I've gone down to some very basic troubleshooting. I connected a gas tank to a short hose that goes to the carburetor. I elevated the tank just to make sure about gravity. In any case, it's still hunts and surges would someone who actually works with engines sign off on this and say there's...

The good news in this video is with an additional fan. The temperature is under 400° f. That's fantastic! The other good news is the problem. It was exhibiting this morning is the same exact problem right now. It's not some random unknown problem. So that's good news but is still hunting and...

This is from July 18th, 8:30 a.m. so it starts right up and it still goes into the hunting and surging. Maybe there is a vacuum leak. I've ordered two new head gaskets. The good thing is I don't see any oil around the chassis area. I was concerned about oil coming out of the engine. The hunting...

This is the latest video. It actually almost seems like it's running okay. However, the temperature on the exhaust pipe is about 830° f and I only run it for a couple minutes now. I can't imagine just because the engine housing is missing that accounts for say 300° f. I think there's still...

In this video I am moving the throttle from low speed to high speed back and forth and I'm not sure if the governor lever is supposed to be moving at all. The engine's not running. Jim

I don't run it for very long and I don't plan on just leaving the engine running high RPMs just a test if it's still hunting and surging I don't think it's hunting and searching. I just think it's running full throttle and I got to get it so it's running. Say 1800 RPMs

I can't say if it sounds good or bad but it runs. The problem is it runs at high speed so I have to control the RPMs with my finger. Maybe it's strictly a governor adjustment. Maybe not but it just wants to run. Maybe 4,000 RPMs whatever. I'm hoping the only thing is the governor adjustment...

So I got it back to hunting and surging and the throttle linkage is going back and forth wild so I had to put my finger to try and keep the same idle speed. I got to do more testing. Get out the thermal gun. See what's going on on the exhaust side for temperature

Spraying carburetor cleaner is the only way to keep it running

Just so there's no confusion for a very long time. It was starting up instantly and then all kinds of help broke loose when the last 4 days it struggled to start but then I found a bent push rod. Now all that's been cleaned up. So now it's starting up instantly and it's shutting down. That's a...

Forest, here's where that 19.5 Briggs& Stratton OHV engine stands so I put a brand new push rod. I happen to have an aluminum one and that's exactly what I needed and it was brand new so that's in place. The valve caps are in place. The intake is at 4000. The exhaust is at 7,000 brand new spark...

Omg I found this. I'm not saying another word

So with both valve caps basically the engine is destroyed. So absolutely time for the shop and not mine

And this is for the guy who thinks I'm messing with people. This is what happens. I'm not trying to do this. I want a lawn mower that works. That's all I want

What? I don't know is if you're missing one of those valve capsAnd and start the engine what will happen?

Forest it absolutely is in this little container that I saved. It has a bunch of flywheel, keys and all that other stuff. If you're betting on a fell into the engine, you're betting on the fact that I have 100% concentration and that's a bad bet so I have no idea. I'm just telling you what I...

So I don't know the significance of this but the Valve cap from the exhaust valve is missing. So I have to put another extra one on that I have and then when it doesn't start then I agree with you 100%. But I can't leave it like it is. The valve cap is looks like a little hockey puck made out of...

Actually the more I think of it. I want to walk back this this comment and here's why it might have been like a week ago I had the engine housing off. The engine started up right away and there was no hunting and surging. Maybe only a very little bit and I thought that the solution was something...

But having said all that maybe 4 weeks ago, some folks and I can't remember who they are said it's probably the camshaft. Maybe it's spent. Maybe there's something wrong with it, so if it was them they probably would have just proceeded to take take the engine apart but I didn't know if they're...

Forest, keep in mind I spent maybe 5 weeks trying to figure out. Is it something broken inside or is there something that's not adjusted properly? You know had I known 5 weeks ago, I want to bother messing with it on the outside and I don't have a skills to hear things that are going on inside...

I don't know if Davis I'm looking it this way. Well actually maybe you're right because basically the fear I have not knowing what the hell's inside that black box is it's going to cost like 10,000 bucks to have it fixed. The camera would at least maybe not increase sales straight away but the...

So maybe about 4 days ago I came up with the idea of putting a little plate on the back of the engine where you could look inside and I've since revised that it would be basically maybe an inch, maybe a half inch hole drilled into the back of the engine block and then from there you would just...

I could actually do that but I have to take the engine out and bring it to the place which I could do. Otherwise around here it's like 120 bucks round trip just to bring the whole riding mower. Where I live to very reputable shops are no longer in business due to various circumstances. There are...

I just wish there was a way to determine broken camshaft or say bad carburetor where at least one symptom does not overlap and then from there you can conclude it's one or the other. And honestly I'm not sure if I quit. I think I'm going to take a break from it and someone on this forum wants me...

The 19.5 horsepower lt2000 I think has a serious camshaft issue. Someone mentioned it before. I can't remember who but that very well could be true. I'm going with that now that I said this. It'll probably start up perfectly and cut through anything. But I have a yard machine. 17.5 horsepower...

A few days ago I tightened the four bolts and those things were secure, but I think you're referring to what I was trying to turn over the edge in. In other words, a flywheel rotating. It was like the whole chassis was shaking the wheels. The chassis that's what it looked like and I don't know...

It's signed up for the School of hard knocks.

I should say when there is banging. Probably the explosions. There were many many of them. This was one single bang and then the engine quit and I thought it was metal on metal but I'm not sure any more than that but it was just one bang as if something hit something and then stopped

Forest if this is in response to what I was saying about being 180° out of sync I think it has to do with after I set up the mark mark on the plastic fins with a mark on the ignition coil. I took the plastic fins off and when I put them back they can either go one way or the other and I think I...

I have never seen the outside of the spark plug boot with metal. I just wonder if this will screw up the timing or something similar and I should coat this somehow with rubber? Jim

Please ignore this because it's possible that I put that plastic piece on reversed yesterday and that explains it

I made those two marks 3 or 4 days ago is what I'm saying and that means top dead center but somehow it's 180° reversed so that Mark when they line up is now when the Piston is all the way inside the cylinder wall

So around 6:00 p.m. July 12th today. I tried to start the engine and it didn't sound good at all. Like something seriously is broken. I took the spark plug out and this image above. I specifically lined up the ignition coil with a flywheel. I made a mark on both and that means basically top dead...

For the above video, at the very end there was something metal hitting something else metal inside the engine that caused a bang. It was not combustion related that's for sure. So the first time I attempted to start the engine until July 12th in the morning I did make some mistakes with some...

Okay, before this video was made I made sure the spark plug was okay. It is. I made sure the rocker arms the pushrods that whole area is okay and it is. I unscrewed the fuel solenoid from the carburetor. Let the gas pour out. Put it back in and then spray carburetor cleaner into the carburetor...

The second video and I'm trying to keep track of everything that happens has never been seen before. It's all new and it's consistent with what I've been saying where whatever's going on. It changes everyday and I can't keep track of all of it. But unless it's a flywheel key that has happened...

This is the first attempt on July 12th around 9:30 a.m. and everything looked okay. Pre-flight except I forgot to turn on the fuel line and then I couldn't turn it off so I had to rip the fuel line out of the carburetor. I think the fuel switch works, but it would have taken too long. The...

It seems as if when you place the tractor on a level surface and you drain the oil and you remove the oil filter, you assume that there's no more oil because you drained it all and I'm not sure why he ended up with maybe a quart extra that I don't know. That is something that could easily be...

But putting aside the current current problem entirely and I'm going back to 3 or 4 years ago. When I got this machine the owner overfilled it with oil and how did that happen? And my conclusion 3 or 4 years ago was there's something wrong with a specification sheet or somehow when you drain oil...

Toby, thanks for the input and now that I'm totally more awake, you know I agree with what you're saying. Something goes wrong with the engine. Consider that one variable and then you still have that one variable. But now you introduce another variable some other carburetor. Now you got two...

Let me cut to the chase with this as to what I'm really saying. Maybe the one that's been in place for 3 years is just all messed up and the one I bought on Amazon say 10 days ago. It's just garbage and I thought they were essentially the same test but maybe they're not the same test. And I...

Toby, when I got this engine the entire machine should I say it was destroyed? So 3 years ago I purchased a brand new carburetor on Amazon. That carburetor has been awesome for the last 3 years. But I will admit the problem is I can't figure out which one it is that I ordered back then. Also, I...

Toby, thanks for this reply. A few weeks ago I bought a brand new carburetor for it and what had happened was when I began using the brand new carburetor nothing changed. So for whatever reason the carburetor that was running the best was the older one so that is still inside the engine. Now...

I'm going to add some text just to be clear. So essentially 3 days ago I was at the stage where the engine started up instantly and then it went into its hunting and surging. That is the last set of symptoms and then what happened because I destroyed the spark plug hole. Is the spark plug flew...

Hi Toby, I did see this on Wednesday. I got the cylinder head back with essentially a brand new spark plug hole, but I haven't done anything further except without a highly specialized test. I disconnected the quarter inch fuel line from the carburetor and I do have a shut-off valve so after...

Okay Toby I did read this. I haven't gone over your first post. You did mention about the camshaft so basically the removal of the camshaft. So in the past 6 weeks I have seen fire coming out of the intake. I have seen smoke coming out of the intake but not testing everyday. It's random...

So I thought about what I just wrote and I have a better question is if you see where the rocker arm makes contact with a push rod and that bump definitely occurs. What can you conclude about the internal components of the engine? Can you say well if you have the bump then that means this is...

Hi Toby, somehow I missed this. I just found it in my email a little while ago and I will read it. I mean it's pretty exhaustive and I'm sure it's complete. The one question I have for you and this got back to the crankshaft or the cam shaft possibly being bent or damaged and I think it was a...

Let me provide more context. So this is the very old cylinder head from a 14.5 horsepower Briggs& Stratton engine. The screw holes did align perfectly with a 19.5 horsepower Briggs engine, but maybe there's something different because obviously there is very little compression. The original...

Forest good call 35 PSI

Compression tester. I own that Leak down tester. I do not own that

I am sorry I have a compression tester when I don't have is called the leak down tester which is different. But you think I should test for compression because the compression tester I just bought I own that

Just to be clear, the awful banging went away say a couple days ago and I can't explain why. Maybe it had to do with carburetor cleaner. It is just very confusing and the symptoms change seemingly on a daily basis and I'm trying to figure all that out

I'm trying to determine say without using a leak down test apparatus. What's going on internally with the engine so right now on July 9th around 7:15 a.m. at some point soon I plan figure out why the flywheel keeps rotating. The spark plug does have spark but the engine does not start. The...

So many things have changed every single day. I can say right now 2 days ago there was no banging. There was just hunting and surging and then I blew out the spark plug. So I swap the cylinder head for a 14.5 horsepower. Briggs cylinder head and now the current problem is I turn the ignition...

The flywheel key looks intact but that means nothing. I'm wondering if I should pull the head right now or assume the key works. It looks intact. It looks in the correct location but who knows, but I'm thinking of moving on to spark fuel carburetor arena. Jim

Mark, I hear you. It wouldn't surprise me if I destroyed the keyway again because the symptoms are exactly the same as the last time I destroyed the keyway. Jim

Davis I hear what you're saying. The way I'm thinking about the problem is if there's something internal to the short block that absolutely is the problem then move on to another engine but I don't know that right now for sure. If the problem is one of the components you slap onto the short...

Mark Mark, so just so you have the most current information, I got rid of the cylinder head that came with a 19.5 horsepower OHV engine. I blew the spark plug out twice. I don't want to have to rethread it. I got a problem with the threads on one of the valve cover threads also. So I happen to...

Hi Mark, I'm thinking about checking the flywheel key again. I just want to make sure that since I have spark the somehow the new cylinder head that I'm using, which is actually a very old cylinder head doesn't have an issue with it and fuel is getting near the spark plug. But thanks for asking...

You know I was thinking about that yesterday to grab the pushrods from the other older machine and I did not use those push rods. I used the pushrods that came with the 19.5 horsepower Briggs& Stratton OHV engine. Jim

This might not be a good example, but suppose there's something wrong with part A whatever that is. So the first time around part A is the problem because it starts up instantly. It runs incredible for 5 seconds and then there's hunting and surging and then later on part A is the problem because...

So using a spark plug tester there absolutely is spark. So then somehow despite tightening the flywheel bolts 100 ft lb I think maybe there's something wrong with the flywheel. I mean that's my experience so I'm wondering if the flywheel key could be okay, but there's something else wrong with a...

So I did buy a spark plug tester. Maybe I should make use of it and see what's up. In the past if there was spark it did work meaning the spark plug tester. It's a lot easier than taking out the spark plug

Okay so it's back to where the flywheel rotates and it doesn't start so I know I put a new flywheel key in and the video illustrates the problem I made sure there was no gasoline in the carburetor bowl. I then put the fuel solenoid back. I then allowed gas to flow into the carburetor and the...

Right Brian, sometimes I just don't know the names of the things, but the one with the needle is a fuel air mixture screw. And basically I know that if you tighten it, you close up the little tiny hole and by doing that you're allowing less air in and you are getting more fuel into the engine...

Maybe it's called the linkage plate. It's where the little tiny wire and the other thicker metal wire hook into on top. It's kind of a shiny triangular shape thing. That's the thing I'm talking about

And when? It's on basically full throttle. The throttle plate I think it is is like a stiff spring but when it's it's the low throttle. It's kind of a loose spring but I'll look it up again but that's what I remember the more I think of it.

Okay thank you. I just want you to know I've done so much. I actually have done the governor adjustment and it's where you move the arm back when it's on the lowest throttle setting. I'm just calling my memory but I will look it up again but I did all that and I thought I had it set correctly...

Okay it's the valve clearance. I get it. I just don't know the phrase you used. Thanks though Forest. Jim

Forest, thanks for this. I think I'm going to combine what you wrote and what Brian wrote and printed it all out. But one thing and I assure you someone believed I was a tech person just testing you all but I'm not. But I'm saying this because I have no clue what a valve lash is. I will look...

Awesome Brian. Thanks again for this further update. I'll have my phone with me outside when I'm going through all this.

Oh the other thing was should I shorten the fuel line so it's like the fuel is angled down towards the carburetor because right now it's a big loop kind of? And the only other thing is this thing actually runs well then I absolutely will get a cylinder head for it. But right now I'm not sure...

Okay Brian. Thanks. I haven't done anything further so basically I got the cylinder head on. I wanted to make damn sure I didn't screw those bolts up. They're not torquing down spec, but they're fairly tight right now. The push rods are from the original cylinder. Had that say I noticed that...

I am uploading this image because I've taken apart the engine so many times. I figured while I have the cylinder head off I could put a mark on the flywheel. Put a mark on the ignition coil and make note of the fact the magnet is near the starter and with this positioning the cylinder is...

Dvzkd, I see your test on trying to eliminate the fuel tank, the hose and all that but here's a more basic question. The fuel tank sits up higher than the carburetor so the question is does the fuel line have to go from higher to lower because the one I have has a loop in it and it goes down...

Okay so this image is the cylinder head I really want to use but the spark plug hole is destroyed. So what you see in a faint red color that beefiness does not exist on the 14.5 horsepower cylinder head which is what I need to use because the spark plug hole is perfect. So this is really the...

It's July 8th about 6:00 a.m. I took off the cylinder head that is matched up with a 19.5 OHV engine. The one I'm trying to work on and I took the cylinder head from a 14.5 OHV Briggs& Stratton engine. The holes the seven bolts line up perfectly. The only thing I noticed is the cylinder head for...

CT usa

I just reread and I was never talking about the cylinder head diameter but that's a good thing to consider. I was just talking about the overall width of the whole thing because the newer cylinder head has like extra fins and creates more width for the hole cylinder head. Whereas the older one...

Hello Dvzkd, You have a lot of great information there and one thing I did see I would not take apart a carburetor to clean it. I would lose a piece or some other thing but right now the 3-year-old carburetor is on there and I snipped off part of the fuel solenoid so it's always getting fuel but...

I am sorry that you were thinking this because what happened was I destroyed the spark plug hole and and I wrapped some steel wool around the spark plug and then when I went to test it, the spark plug blew out and I couldn't find it in the yard because it was still inside of the rubber boot for...

I think your restoration projects are a hobby, I'm not really too thrilled Abbot this project considering it's been hot as hell and you know you could pick and when you want to do the restoration. But let me leave you with another completely separate project so there is a Kenmore elite...

I think I really destroyed the opening where the spark plug would go in. Secondly, the upper right screw hole for the valve cover is messed up so I'm just going to see if this old cylinder head that I was able to get off an older riding mower Will work out. Jim

Hi Davis, 2, If you're thinking that this Governor issue was somehow internal to the short block, then I can't picture myself messing around with it if that turns out to be true. Jim

I can take a deep dive into many different topics and I have had to in my lifetime but I usually don't have the right context or the big picture for whatever is going on because I don't have that kind of background. I have spent probably 55 years messing around with lawn tractors. I wish they...

Correct. I am pretty sure it will.

I try to find my previous post how how the old cylinder had was too large but the hole pattern Is correct. So the other one just has extra metal on one side for fins so I will see how the tractor runs when I install that older cylinder head which is from a 14.5 horsepower Briggs& Stratton OHV...

Well right now I don't have a cylinder head and I'm not going to try rethread the existing cylinder head but I can't tell you. Maybe about 7 days ago. I was worried about no compression and I ended up with about 85 psi for compression which I believe is on the low end. The old cylinder head that...

I just went down to get that cylinder head and I realized the socket I have is too small for the bolts so So I just removed 14.5 horsepower Briggs engine cylinder head and I rested it on top of the 19.5 horsepower Briggs engine and The old cylinder head seems to be too narrow. Jim

I just went down to get that cylinder head and I realized the socket I have is too small for the bolts. So I have to think about that if the head of the bolt is larger and that is it? Or is the bolt completely different and something could go wrong with the existing short block especially with...

Someone had asked about banging noises and I completely forgot to include the link from this morning when the spark plug blew out. But but this is from this morning there is no banging. It's only hunting and surging and then the spark plug blew out of the spark plug hole. But thanks for doing...

796026. Is the Briggs& Stratton part number 796026

Okay, I know it's a Briggs& Stratton 14.5 horsepower OHV and currently it's sitting in a bed of poison. Ivy, so what I just planned on doing was just taking the cylinder head off. There's like six bolts and seeing if it matches up with what I currently have. I can't see any further things that...

There absolutely was this banging noise and I have been trying to get this thing going for several weeks. There have been many different things going on at different times. What I can say right now is there is no banging. From what I can tell, there is hunting and surging. This morning the spark...

I decided that I'm going to use J-B weld on the spark plug. The reason being is the cylinder head is garbage at this point and I only want to see if having a spark plug even for a few hours to remain in the cylinder head if I can stop the hunting and surging and at this point since I removed the...

Steve, what happened was I went outside. I removed the kill wire it ran for maybe a minute. Still hunting and surging and because I crossed threaded at the spark plug a couple days ago, it blew the spark plug right out of the spark plug hole in the cylinder head. So right now I'm not sure what I...

The one test that I wanted to do with a brand new fuel solenoid was where you basically snip off the plunger inside of it to see if the hunting and surging is due to some electrical malfunction inside of the wires or something like that. I do know that with the electronic fuel solenoid connected...

I removed the kill wire. It was still hunting and surging and as I recall years ago I got rid of the electronic solenoid and install the shut-off switch for the fuel line. But in any case, although you don't see it, this is a video where it's running for a few minutes. It's hunting and surging...

Thanks for this. You did not waste words I will be checking this out. Jim

I have never heard of a magnetic dial indicator. I will look that up later and its usage. But one thing I was messing around with few weeks ago is trying to figure out if some of the safety features were screwing up the engine and then since I had constant spark I thought no issue with the...

https://www.partswarehouse.com/31P677-3373-G2-Briggs-and-Stratton-Engine-s/235041.htm I have been using the above website link for the engine and this goes back like 3 years or more. I also considered trying to use steel wool on the parts I couldn't read and then I was thinking maybe I just...

I started to take a look at what you wrote and I absolutely will remove the kill wire because right now it starts right up it hunts and surges and the temperature gets up to about 800° f ine. I didn't know at the time what the purpose of removing the kill wire was, but now I know and I can...

It's late at night, but it seems like you have a pretty exhaustive list of things to look at. And I absolutely will read it tomorrow morning. But I've included the engine code and it's just so hard to read and I'm pretty sure this is the best photo which is cropped that I have Jim made

But the weird thing is maybe 5 days ago it was running very smooth. Everything seems smooth and the engine temperature was about 450° Fahrenheit. Maybe 500° and then something happened then and then it went back up to 800° f

I actually was thinking this just about the fan that even if I get all the fins I'm still going to end up with around 700° f. But like you're saying regarding the governor, since the component is inside and I'm not an engine expert wouldn't I would not know this if this is broken or not. If...

I see what you're saying and that was definitely a mistake on my part as far as describing the problem. But the fact is the flywheel was rotating and nothing else was happening. And at the time the reason why that was true is because of flywheel key was sheered and that was fixed and as of July...

I actually did this maybe 5 days ago and I came up with a distance of travel of 1 cm approximately for each valve and another member of this forum computed the same thing for his machine. If the 1 cm difference seems wrong then I have the units right here in my description wrong. But whatever I...

I absolutely can do this tomorrow just to at least make sure the valve clearances are correct. The push rods are not bent. The post that the rocker arms sit on are solid against the plate and anything else that I find that might be unusual, but that's a good suggestion. Jim

Hello I bought a compression testing kit and although one of the fittings did not fit perfectly with a spark plug hole, there is an adapter that makes a pretty good fit and the compression was 86 psi. I stopped using the carburetor cleaner. The only reason I mainly did that is so I wouldn't...

This is from 5:15 p.m. July 6th so the engine starts. Right up and at least I guess I only contend with one variable now hunting and surging. It sounds like the carburetor so I put the fuel mixer screw in all the way and then I backed it out about one turn and every 30 minutes or so I back it...

Right on that. The part I'm looking at off the top of my head is Briggs& Stratton 796201. I think that's what it is I lost the post but someone was telling me about the flywheel fan and I could say the part that I need is Briggs& Stratton 796201 and that's everything but I only need the plastic...

I just went back outside at 3:15 p.m. I am keeping in mind running this even with everything back in place for under say 20 seconds. I can say it started right up. It sounds like the engine's strong and a lot of hunting and surging. So in a couple seconds that I had, I started messing around...

Forest, I did take a look at that flywheel fan. I was looking for some numbers or letters and there is nothing except the Briggs& Stratton logo put. The one I have has two dimples on the bottom and I can buy like three parts and be sure I got the correct plastic fan but I am trying to figure out...

Forest, thanks for the heads up on this. Even with everything put back in a partially broken flywheel fan which recently broke and I have no clue why. But the point is what you're saying makes a lot of sense about the fan and go to a place that has old engines before anything else. I do...

I have to put the original coil back on and this is a good point you make. Honestly, I don't think it'll make any difference but I absolutely will put the old coil back on.

It starts up perfectly fine without carburetor cleaner is what I was trying to say

I am sorry I was using carburetor cleaner. I can tell you that the most recent startup was without carburetor cleaner because everything was put back on the engine including the housing and it can't start without carburetor cleaner. I just wanted to make it easier for whatever is going on with...

Honestly, I've watched many videos on adjusting the valves and since I've spent so much time with this, the technique I like to use is where you send one push rod into the engine as far as it can go and watch that rocker arm. And when you know it's pretty much as far as it can go. You adjust the...

Thanks for this message. I can put the the original ignition coil back on there. Probably wasn't anything wrong with it. I just figured it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it. Actually a couple strands of wire were frayed up near the electronics of the ignition coil. That's why I replaced it in...

Okay, thanks for the tip on that. You know obviously comes down to 2200 bucks versus will a couple hundred dollars say $300 total? Will that? This is the way I'm proceeding. I can only tell you about 10 years ago I had a Briggs& Stratton with a cracked cylinder wall. I used JB weld on it and it...

Okay this is a video with everything back I did not engage the blades. It started to do some hunting and surging and the engine runs about 770° f so it still doesn't seem right. I could take it out. Cut a little bit of grass and then it just shuts down. Maybe I got to do that. I think that would...

When you say stator key, do you mean flywheel key? I know that right now has been torquing down to 100 ft lb and I just made a video of it running bare Bones, no blades running, no housing on the engine. Just does it run and so far it runs without any blades turning and I'm not sure for how long...

I got the flywheel to 100 ft lb. I put everything back. I noticed there might be a problem with the threading for the spark plug hole but I found a spot where it actually can tighten okay but any further it would go back into being loose. But having said that the link above is the machine...

I'm sorry for the confusion on this. There was no intention to ever run the flywheel without a flywheel key. I was talking about what the purpose of it is. I would never run a flywheel without a flywheel key

And there's just so many different things to remember, but one thing that I noticed only a couple days ago. 800° F. Using a thermal gun so there's something wrong with the temperature on the exhaust so I got to look at that too and I think that's everything before I go outside and get the...

Okay to answer your question, 3 weeks ago there was a lot of smoke coming from the exhaust. I thought it was the cylinder head gasket and it may have been in reality the valve cover gasket. I failed to follow up with what happened next. So what happened next was I put oil back in the engine but...

Kyledere thanks for the reply. I can tell you about 3 weeks ago there was smoke on the muffler and it was very smoky and I thought the problem was a head gasket. I really didn't know what the problem was but at that time it had awesome power. There was nothing wrong with it except a lot of smoke...

It's July 6th 2024 and I can see where I have posted some years ago about a problem with the Briggs& Stratton engine and somehow I think I'm replying to a problem from back then. I can't figure out what's going on with the forum but from here on out I'm going to post the date and the time in the...

Thanks for your reply on this and I can only say I swapped out the original carburetor I put a brand new carburetor in which actually if you know what you're doing only takes under 5 minutes or less and it was the same problem. But having said that, since I went back to the original carburetor I...

Thanks old and tired. So I just did a search on symptoms of a bad timing gear on a crankshaft for Briggs& Stratton engine or something very similar as a phrase. And again, I'm not an engine mechanic and I could tell you there is no way in hell I could ever come up with that phrase with what I...

Correction. I was not able to get it off last night. It was impossible to get it off last night every time I turned I can only say this forum Is great and what I know is many of you. If you are standing right over this engine while it was running, you could probably figure it out instantly. I...

Correction. I was not able to get it off last night. It was impossible to get it off last night every time I turned those nuts. Clockwise I expected something to break free and that never happened. That is what I was trying to say above. So at that point I couldn't figure out what was going on...

I was able to remove the flywheel. I have no idea where the post I just made ended up including pictures of flywheel keys. But the only question is about the notch cut into the flywheel key and the only reason I could see it being there in the first place is you can probably grab it and then...

In other words, when you see the notch point it towards the sky?

I went outside to start over. I backed out the bolts and as I did the flywheel was loose. I was able to get it off when I was tightening down last night. There was no indication that I was doing anything productive, but the key towards the bottom of the screen has some damage from when I was...

I'm hoping this is the problem. The first step should be tighten the bolt all the way down through the flywheel so that the end of the bolt makes contact with the short block. Otherwise it will not work. But if that is the problem then I'm thinking that's a lot of force confined to a small...

So I turned each nut probably 50 times and nothing is happening. I thought the flywheel was supposed to break free from the crankshaft. Is this a common problem where this tool does not work? Jim

Just to be clear, I bought all kinds of new components. I would swap the new one in. I swapped the old one out. I swapped the old one back in. I swapped the new one in. It doesn't matter like all the old components are fine from what I gather

Hello Forest, I'm waiting right now as we speak for a flywheel puller because I can't get the flywheel off and I'm not going to try and pry it anymore. So before I decide to take the flywheel off, the engine starts right up. That's not even an issue and then it starts going into loud explosions...

For what it's worth, Sears has a video on replacing the flywheel key and in it they say push it down flush with the top of the crankshaft. I believe a few days ago I actually did that but I'm not positive but if I did then I don't understand how the flywheel key could have raised itself up...

Thank you very much for the answer Ilengine. Jim

I think what I failed to say is there's no way the flywheel key should be sitting up higher The other thing I noticed is if you rotate the flywheel so the magnet is directly on center with the ignition coil. I would think the notch in the crank shaft would point in that direction. It's not it's...

I think what I failed to say is there's no way the flywheel key should be sitting up higher than the actual crankshaft. I'm just wondering if that makes sense. It's not easy to find that kind of information only over hundreds of articles?

"Place the flywheel on the crankshaft and look through the flywheel hub to align the keyways on the flywheel and crankshaft. With the flywheel in place, place the key in the keyway; it should fit securely. If you feel play, check to see if the key is upside down."...

I have a flywheel puller made by Briggs& Stratton on order Is what I was trying to say above

since the engine starts up right away and then his struggles with explosions hunting and surging I revisited the flywheel and I notice the flywheel key is sticking out higher than the drive shaft. Also without specialized tools I can't get the flywheel off. So I have the Briggs& Stratton...

Well you can't put the muffler back without taking off the cylinder head.

So it's the sheet metal screw gone into metal and that's it. Nothing fancy. No adhesives nothing

About 3 weeks ago when this adventure began, the exhaust pipe got so hot. The weld separated to the muffler so I have four sheet metal screws. Nothing fancy. No it's red lock and I'm going to see if whatever is wrong with the engine and hopefully just the carburetor is the problem how this...

Since I put the high temperature gasket sealant in, I decided I would test her right now even though it's less than 24 hours for the curing temperature outside because it's in the sun sun. It's probably 120°. F so if it leaked then I had a solution for that. So far it's not leaking but what I...

It seems like the top and the vertical sides for the high temperature red gasket sealant should be okay but either later today or tomorrow morning. I'm thinking of removing all the the red gasket material from the bottom horizontal edge and using a paper towel dry up as much oil in that area and...

Forest, I am sorry you replied to what was going on say a week ago and I thought it was engine related at that time but this is July 2nd issue and it's definitely oil coming from inside the cylinder head seeping past The gasket from say 8:30 in the morning but I removed all that and I started...

So maybe 15 minutes ago I went out and I tightened it just a little bit more. I didn't see any oil leaking even though it's still carrying so I'm trying to figure out. If I run it tomorrow and there's oil leaking then it'll be coming out of the bottom and then I'm thinking this time put paper...

This is from 9:30 a.m. today July 2nd. The throttle linkage is definitely behaving a lot better and then I discovered the oil dripping after I shut it down, but seems like it's going in the forward direction in a good way Jim

Oh shoot! So what do I do now? It's been an hour and it was pressed in. I pressed it in like I said and then I realized it was still dripping oil. That is about experience. I had no clue that was going to happen but I'm guessing the silicone prevented further oil from seeping out. Not sure on...

Thanks for those directions. I actually took a screenshot right before I applied it but one thing I did notice as after I waited a bit I pressed it into the cylinder and I noticed that oil was still dripping from inside the valve area so it was too late. I already pressed it in. Do you think...

I just realized how many products that company sells to be clear product I own is called ultra red and can handle temperatures up to 750° f Permatex

I went out this morning and I cleaned up the cylinder head and the valve cover gasket of that red sealant and I replaced that with this cardboard like valve cover gasket. I didn't like it from the get-go but I somehow bought four of them so I can tell you that leaks. So based on il engine the...

That's interesting about the flywheel key. I know a lot of companies, for example, build knowledge, bases, and from what I learned is if you have a machine that's running in any condition and you change the flywheel key and then it won't start it all. You shared the flywheel key instantly. As...

Thanks Mark. The machine you see here was giving it to me for free. It was blowing oil out of the exhaust and within a matter of a few days I had it running as good as it possibly could be. That was 3 years ago. Now I'm struggling for like 15 days just to get it to run. I have some videos of the...

This is the latest. So far the only thing he can't see is the muffler area and there is no muffler that overheated and broke but 3/4 of the way in the engine starts struggling and it has some hunting and surging. Also the engine sounds kind of tinny. Maybe with all the stuff missing could be the...

Yeah that's the one I used. The one you mentioned I didn't know it was 24 hours. I probably knew that a couple weeks ago, but I guess the good news is nothing very serious is leaking and it sounds like the engine is trying to smooth itself out, but it's still kind of erratic but the throttle...

Okay, from what I can tell it really is leaking from the valve cover which is sort of a relief that it's not something else

So I use some of that high temperature red sealant and I locked down the valve cover but yet there's oil dripping directly below the valve cover and I can't figure out where it's coming from. Meaning maybe the cylinder head? Maybe the block itself? J8m

I try to adjust the carburetor while it's running with that that engine housing on and I couldn't do it but with the engine housing off it's doing the hunting and surging thing again and it sounds like it might even be banging. It just doesn't sound right. And the throttle. So the throttle...

Okay got it on those issues I did read if you run it too. Lean it gets too hot so I'm going to fix that a little at a time. When I had the flywheel off I was going to inspect that breather assembly but that didn't happen. Hoping whatever hunting and surging is going on is 100% carburetor that I...

What I'm trying to say is it's better to have one person telling you or a couple then reading a million different articles. That's what I'm trying to say because it turns out to be a million different things

So I just was reading many articles on running hot and obviously was not a single person telling you you have a million different things. But I'm wondering first of all it could be running too lean and then the air filter. There is none right now so maybe the breather tube? And I wonder about...

So the temperature of the exhaust pipe is about 800° f and the plastic fins are broken and I did not put the the shroud around the engine but I'm not exactly making it work hard. It's just sitting there running. It is starting to exhibit the hunting and surging issue from say 2 weeks ago and...

Lower left corner of the valve cover has some oil dripping. The valve cover is not a perfect seal but could there be something else going on?

ILengine thanks for your help on this so far it's the success if I have a damaged flywheel fan and I certainly don't want to screw off anything that I spent about 16 days trying to fix, but I'm wondering if it can cut? Say maybe 800 square feet without blowing up. Definitely got to order...

So I tightened it up to about 100 foot pounds. And then it wouldn't restart. I thought shared the flywheel key again but I decided at that point even after torquing it to torque it a little bit more. It's pretty much up near 100. It's an old school torque device

It runs it skips here and there no more banging noise. Maybe a slight hunt and surge. I have not adjusted the fuel air mixture screw nor the idle screw. Jim