Z won't move

Is3100drive.jpg

This is what an older is3100 with separate hydros looks like. The belt is on the bottom under a frame. There are no pull bypass levers on the hydros.
 
Just a thought, but have you tried draining the fluid to see what it looks like as it comes out?
If the first thing that drains out is water-or if it comes out looking milky there's your answer.

Time was when farmers used to regularly loosen the drain plugs on crankcases, transmissions and differentials, after their equipment had been sitting for long periods of time-to drain out the condensation.

If there is much condensation the water and oil mix will froth, entrapping AIR when the pumps work on it-and Its difficult to get much hydraulic pressure from foam. Its not as much of an issue when the equipment is being used more often as heat generated while its in operation will tend to drive any moisture out.

(If there's any way for air to get into a system, eventually so will moisture, and the longer it sits, and the greater the temperature swings are,. the more moisture will find its way in.)
 
TRACTORTOWN said:
Try this. Block up the rear end enough to clear the rear wheels from the ground. Place something heavy in the seat to keep the safety switch engaged. Start the engine, let it idle. Bungie cord the control levers fully forward and let in stay in this position for 15 min.
Then do the same in reverse. Always with engine just at idle speed.
Click to expand...
Doing that for that long @ idle risks overheating the engine..
 
I had one once that had a charge pump leaking fixed the leak and purge the system. I thought would not pull purged and purged still would not pull. I finally open the throttle wide open and pushed the control arm forward as far as it would go and held there and it finally started working. Might try something like that.
 
I think there is a lever both sides instead of pulling the levers right back into the grove just let them find there own position
 
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