worn out cam preventing ignition, cam swap or engine swap

[Scrubcadet10]

your money, your engine.

 

[The Brain]

I was messing I'll do it right w/ OEM will document the whole swap.
to bad the compression can't be lowed enought w/ like a thicker head gasket.

to bad there's a weak starter wouldn't a stronger starter and minus the cam attachment.TB

 

[The Brain]

update: goods is I was able to get a deal on a used engine and she looks nice seller claims runs good not the oil leaking loose valved oginale.
bad news is it's 6 hours away.

couple days ago I posted up on Uship independant carriers aren't cheap a 24x24x24 50lb box that is loaded & unloaded is well over $200. I was expecting a freight bill of around $50.
so the devils increase of fuel probablly leads to higher transportation stuff.

mite a day trip to the Georgia coast.

I will create a new thread on the swap. undecided what to do w/ orginal starters worn, valvetrain wore dirty carb.
scape yard time like the block is solid aluminum anyone scrape one?

 

[The Brain]

# on valve cover
new to me engine
Model type code

219907 0131 B1 0805212A
Orginal engine
219907 0131 B1 086432A

someone please tell me these are the exact same size engines.
the only differnce I could do w/out is the set/lock screw for adjusting valves. maybe after a few more adjustments I will get the hang of it.do you Guys adjust every year or just wait till the starter drags?
thanks

 

[Rivets]

Only difference is manufacture date.

 

[The Brain]

excellent which is newer? haven't gotten posetion arrarning shipping myself or I mite pick up myself.

what do you like of the set screw on either engine. I'd think an allen locker makes the adjustment easier than holding it together w/ my hand while tightening sounds rather caveman primative method dam. rant over.

 

[Rivets]

Both built the same year, but I’m sorry this old fart has forgotten how to read the rest of the code number. Adjusting valves properly is an experienced skill. Once you get the hang of it, it doesn’t matter which locking system you have.

 

[Scrubcadet10]

219907 0131 B1 0805212A = 2008, May, 21st,
Orginal engine
219907 0131 B1 086432A = June of 2008... i think you read a digit or wrong, or are missing one...?
On the valves with the 2 lock nuts, the clearance tends to tighten up some while you tighten the lock nut, and of course while holding the adjuster nut.. not sure why but it does, so i usually set them a hair loose with the correct feeler gauge and with the gauge still in between the rocker and valve tighten it down, you want to feel a drag when you pull out, but it shouldn't be too tough to pull it out.

 

[The Brain]

I'll start w/ soaking the pulley under engine w/ liquide wrenh then watch a few videos on how to.swap engines.

what I have read it could be diffiacult reailgn the static drive sys. doesn't the crank pulley sit one position woops I think there is a slite adjustment in height and this is where ppl mess up not enough fiction low power.

the new engines crank has rust should this be steel wooled down to shiny smooth?

 

[The Brain]

219907 0131 B1 0805212A = 2008, May, 21st,
Orginal engine
219907 0131 B1 086432A = June of 2008... i think you read a digit or wrong, or are missing one...?
On the valves with the 2 lock nuts, the clearance tends to tighten up some while you tighten the lock nut, and of course while holding the adjuster nut.. not sure why but it does, so i usually set them a hair loose with the correct feeler gauge and with the gauge still in between the rocker and valve tighten it down, you want to feel a drag when you pull out, but it shouldn't be too tough to pull it out.

here's a close up.