Whats wrong when my engine runs fine,but if i shut it off,wont restart for like a half hour?
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sgkent
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fuel to air ratio
spark
compression
Figure which is missing and chase down why. For example, a dirty air filter or stuck choke will affect the air to fuel mixture. A bad coil may open with heat soak and then no spark. Or the exhaust valve may be tight and when it expands from the heat of running there is not enough compression at low speed for it to start. An old mower I had did that once and it was a really dirty air cleaner element causing it. On my pressure washer it was a tight exhaust valve causing it.
spark
compression
Figure which is missing and chase down why. For example, a dirty air filter or stuck choke will affect the air to fuel mixture. A bad coil may open with heat soak and then no spark. Or the exhaust valve may be tight and when it expands from the heat of running there is not enough compression at low speed for it to start. An old mower I had did that once and it was a really dirty air cleaner element causing it. On my pressure washer it was a tight exhaust valve causing it.
bertsmobile1
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Forums are like computers
Junk in results in junk out
If you want meaningful responses then we need to model trim & serial numbers
And the make model & serial of whatever the B & S is attached to won't hurt either
Otherwise all you will get is generic information.
Junk in results in junk out
If you want meaningful responses then we need to model trim & serial numbers
And the make model & serial of whatever the B & S is attached to won't hurt either
Otherwise all you will get is generic information.
<rant>This is SO much BS. The make, model, and serial number have NOTHING to do with mixture, spark, and compression. You're trying to punish the poster with demands for irrelevant information. SPEAK TO THE ISSUE! Regardless of make, model, and serial number, the poster's problem is not that he has the any specific make or model, but that his engine won't start for 30 minutes after he shuts it off. He's not alone in having this issue, and I'd bet money that others who have this issue have DIFFERENT makes and models. Forum Nazis who think that everyone should provide infinite boring detail to ask a simple question are just the worst.</rant>
Now to the issue at hand:
WHY won't the poster's mower start? Offhand, I can think of several possible causes:
1. If the mower stopped because it was out of gas: Maybe there was some floating dust or debris on top of the gas that got sucked into the carburetor. If this is the case, you'll probably need to get a spray can of "starting fluid." Take the air filter off. There's a small hole under the filter where air gets sucked through the filter into the engine. Douche that hole with starting fluid, and then have someone pull the starter cord. The engine should run for a few seconds and then slow to a stop. If so, repeat this process, but while the engine's trying to run, put your thumb over the air inlet hole. This creates a tremendous vacuum at the fuel jet, and will often dislodge trash. You may have to do it a few times...
2. If the mower wouldn't start at all, you may have some water in your gas. This could come from your gas can or even from atmospheric condensation. Water droplets do NOT want to pass through the fuel jet. You may be able to get through this by pouring some "Sea Foam" additive into the gas tank and then using Step 1 above to clear the fuel jet.
3. Before doing any of this, inspect the air filter. Is it so dirty that it's plugged? You can spend time cleaning it, but I just buy a new one at the start of each mowing season (and keep a spare on hand, just in case). The darned foam filters can appear semi-clean but still have gunk inside them. To check the filter, just take it off & try to start the engine. Starts normally? Get a new filter.
4. Check the spark-plug wire. Is it firmly attached to the plug, or did some branch reach up and pull it off? Not attached = no spark. In general, the plug itself lasts the life of the mower, so don't bother pulling it except as a last resort.
Of all the above, Numbers 1 & 2 have been the most effective for me in fixing the "doesn't want to start right" syndrome. Best of luck, amigo!
Last edited:
bertsmobile1
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Well it goes like this
Particular models have particular known problems
having all of the information makes the job of doing a diagnosis on some thing with nothing but words on a screen a whole lot easier.
What you consider to be boring, others find rivetingly interesting .
The full engine details means we do not end up sending the poster down a rabbit hole doing all sorts of tests that are pointless .
The numbers will tell those with access to the Power portal if that particular engine has an auto choke, manual choke, choke-o-matic , no choke or primer
It will also tell the tech if the primer where fitted is a direct fuel pump or an air pump to depress the float
It will also tell us if the engine has a carburettor or is fuel injected ( the later you have totally ignored in your generic response above )
Now on the subject of BS misleading the OP
1) the small hole you are spraying starting fluid into does not allow air into the engine, it vents crankcase vapour OUT of the crankcase
Not sure what you are putting your thumb over but if it is the vent pipe then it does absolutely nothing other than pressurizing the crank case and definately will not cause any cleaning of jets anywhere .
2)Total rubbish.
Water will happily pass through the main jet & get drawn into the engine .
It will not vapourise particularly well but will pass through the carburettor.
Water is a float bowl ( assuming that this is a carburettor engine ) will cause steam ( seen as white smoke ) to come from the exhaust .
It will also cause the mower to stall momentarily , can blow head gaskets but will not rectify itself simply by allowing the engine to get cold
3) The air filter will not be the cause of this problem.
A blocked air filter will prevent the engine starting FROM COLD , not from hot and agin will not self correct when the engine cools down
4) Again not a problem that would prevent a hot engine from restarting , but rectify itself when cold .
So either you have no idea what you are talking about or imply did not read pddaily's original post but just wanted the chance to rant & rave.
So if that is all you have to offer may I suggest that you go back to face book where you belong & leave answering peoples problems to those who actually know what they are doing .
Now pd has not come back so either they have fixed their problem, are ill or indisposed or have given up
When they come back with what we need to know then we will make a concerted effort to fix their problem in a timely & efficient mannar not just assume that OUR problems must be their problems .
Now if you are just out for a dispute, also take notice that this is the last post of yours in this thread I will respond to .
I don't have time for people who just like to ague and throw around emotive terms like Nazi in order to provoke an arguement
Having corrected your incorrect information so future viewers can read both & work out who knows what they are talking about and who is just farting , you now go on my ignore list so post away, slurr me as much as you want if it makes you feel like a real man then go ahead, but I will not see a single letter of it .
Particular models have particular known problems
having all of the information makes the job of doing a diagnosis on some thing with nothing but words on a screen a whole lot easier.
What you consider to be boring, others find rivetingly interesting .
The full engine details means we do not end up sending the poster down a rabbit hole doing all sorts of tests that are pointless .
The numbers will tell those with access to the Power portal if that particular engine has an auto choke, manual choke, choke-o-matic , no choke or primer
It will also tell the tech if the primer where fitted is a direct fuel pump or an air pump to depress the float
It will also tell us if the engine has a carburettor or is fuel injected ( the later you have totally ignored in your generic response above )
Now on the subject of BS misleading the OP
1) the small hole you are spraying starting fluid into does not allow air into the engine, it vents crankcase vapour OUT of the crankcase
Not sure what you are putting your thumb over but if it is the vent pipe then it does absolutely nothing other than pressurizing the crank case and definately will not cause any cleaning of jets anywhere .
2)Total rubbish.
Water will happily pass through the main jet & get drawn into the engine .
It will not vapourise particularly well but will pass through the carburettor.
Water is a float bowl ( assuming that this is a carburettor engine ) will cause steam ( seen as white smoke ) to come from the exhaust .
It will also cause the mower to stall momentarily , can blow head gaskets but will not rectify itself simply by allowing the engine to get cold
3) The air filter will not be the cause of this problem.
A blocked air filter will prevent the engine starting FROM COLD , not from hot and agin will not self correct when the engine cools down
4) Again not a problem that would prevent a hot engine from restarting , but rectify itself when cold .
So either you have no idea what you are talking about or imply did not read pddaily's original post but just wanted the chance to rant & rave.
So if that is all you have to offer may I suggest that you go back to face book where you belong & leave answering peoples problems to those who actually know what they are doing .
Now pd has not come back so either they have fixed their problem, are ill or indisposed or have given up
When they come back with what we need to know then we will make a concerted effort to fix their problem in a timely & efficient mannar not just assume that OUR problems must be their problems .
Now if you are just out for a dispute, also take notice that this is the last post of yours in this thread I will respond to .
I don't have time for people who just like to ague and throw around emotive terms like Nazi in order to provoke an arguement
Having corrected your incorrect information so future viewers can read both & work out who knows what they are talking about and who is just farting , you now go on my ignore list so post away, slurr me as much as you want if it makes you feel like a real man then go ahead, but I will not see a single letter of it .
sgkent
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folks - OP last posted 4/2/2022 when he said will check for spark, air / fuel, and compression. Maybe he found one missing and fixed it. I agree that having a make, model and serial helps a lot with Internet troubleshooting, but I've rarely used that in my life when I am checking the basic 3 things. And although it doesn't happen often, I too have run out of or low on gasoline once or twice in my life and had to go get some. I've even had water in the fuel a couple times in my life which caught me off guard. Speaking of water in the fuel, had a friend who was preflighting a cessna with a student who was checking the tank. The plane had just been flown 15 minutes before then topped off by the fuel truck. The student is throwing punch after punch of fuel on the ground. My friend goes over, takes the punch from her and says, "do it like this, don't waste so much fuel." He gets a full cup of water. Another. Another. Rain the night before flooded the airport tanks with water, and the fuel truck is now delivering water to about six aircraft. All were caught but one never knows when something will sneak up on you.
bertsmobile1
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There is a world of difference between having to mower right in front of you & trying to do a diagnosis over the web with nothing but words
Even worse because we all use different terms to describe the same things & they often overlap so need to be clarified
Fire = sparks or goes bang once or runs for a couple of seconds ? for example .
I use numbers to pull down IPL's because on a used machine there is no guarantee that any of the parts are what is supposed to be there , or parts that should be there are not missing .
If I did 20 of the same engines a day things are different but I can go months without seeing the same make & model of anything apart from my weekly commercials .
We do not know if it is a ride on with a single , or a twin or a push with a sprint , europa , Quantum or current e series
There is a reason why I am very careful if I recommend some one goes on you tube & Boomzilla is exactly that reason
Some one who thinks they know but has less than no idea what they are doing or why what they did sometimes works .
Even worse he did not read the original post but just wanted too rant about mine
SO nothing he posted will be of any use to PD in any way shape or form .
Even worse because we all use different terms to describe the same things & they often overlap so need to be clarified
Fire = sparks or goes bang once or runs for a couple of seconds ? for example .
I use numbers to pull down IPL's because on a used machine there is no guarantee that any of the parts are what is supposed to be there , or parts that should be there are not missing .
If I did 20 of the same engines a day things are different but I can go months without seeing the same make & model of anything apart from my weekly commercials .
We do not know if it is a ride on with a single , or a twin or a push with a sprint , europa , Quantum or current e series
There is a reason why I am very careful if I recommend some one goes on you tube & Boomzilla is exactly that reason
Some one who thinks they know but has less than no idea what they are doing or why what they did sometimes works .
Even worse he did not read the original post but just wanted too rant about mine
SO nothing he posted will be of any use to PD in any way shape or form .
Hammermechanicman
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Wow. So much angst on the innerwebbs. Someone even dropped the N word over a lawn mower. I got no dog in the fight but the OP may want to check if the unidentified unit has an auto choke that is closing when shut off hot and needs to cool down till a rich mixture starts the engine. Not knowing what engine with what type of carb and choke system it is all just guessing.