Whats wrong when my engine runs fine,but if i shut it off,wont restart for like a half hour?

[StarTech]

Just note for some folks it does take a while to get back to a project. All kinds of delays can happen and of course when they get it fix they don't let us know either a lot of the time.

Personally it has been a rough start this year for my business. Delays in parts delivery, customers not mentioning problems, and of course weather delays.

It like the JD Z925A. Came in with a known bad spindle, one ignition coil failing, and parking brake safety problem. Took the mower out for after repairs. First thing right front wobbling all over the place. The bolts holding it arm on was way loose. And while mowing heard a bearing in an idler pulley bearing going bad. Well it back down under I get the 6006-RK bearing in. Meanwhile there is a few other parts that got to be ordered too as the brake linkage is rusted solid and a missing J bolt, nut, and sleeve for center anti scalp rollers. Then there the Scag that came in for maintenance with a hydro oil leak. Resealed unit and service the engine. LF tire was flat so went to repair that. Just leaking around the bead. But I was put on a hold due a seal missing. I still trying to figure how there is no sign of the seal. Should have been a least a metal ring left. Tapered bearing completely impacted with dirt. Seals arrive at closing Saturday. Maybe I can get it out Monday before the rain arrives yet again for another 4 days. Rats...

Then of course was the Yamaha 660 where it need a fuel valve and had a loose battery cable. Repaired those to only find out the supposedly just repaired carburetor wasn't repaired. I had order a kit for it. Then as I was getting all that together that customer mentions the throttle cable sticking. At least I went ahead and got a new fuel level sender. Well I finally got it out but I would not go above 40 mph as I was uncomfortable going any faster.

He was already soaked for a half A job by another shop. He claim they supposedly soak the carb in lemon juice. Well no signs of any cleaning. The secondary fuel filter screen was completely clogged with rust where they only remove the filters in the tank. Even the jets were loose and one had completely fell out. If they rebuilt the carb there should have at least been new o-rings but none were found.

Then there is the darn Polaris 90 that is back again after the customer put in some old 2 cycle oil and it start missing and wont idle. Just had rebuilt the rear end.

Why can't the customer just let know us of all the known problems ahead of time so all the parts can be ordered at the same time. Things like above just throw a wrench into things causing a lot of delays. Plus it adds to cost of repairs as in the Yamaha where I had to charge double for the labor because I had disassemble and reassemble twice the tank area.

Ranting over. I still got a couple hairs left...

As for the problem the OP mentions I have seen it once on an opposed engine where the ignition coil would heat soak while sitting and the electronic fails until it cools back down. In my case it was a borderline good Magnetron coil.

And yes we need the equipment info as it does help to troubleshoot remotely as well as to suggest the correct replacement parts.

Meanwhile I killed one my kids yesterday and going to BBQ her today then pass out the BBQ to my neighbors. So they all will be guilty of eating my kid.

 

[Tinkerer200]

When asking an engine question, it is always helpful to know what engine you are talking about. As a long time follower of this (under a different sign in) and other forums. do not bet against an expert such as bertsmobile1 and certainly do not disrespect them.

Walt Conner

 

[Boomzilla]

@

bertsmobile1​

has made it clear that he disagrees with me and that he doesn't want any further discussion, period. Fine with me. It's a free country, and everyone is entitled to an opinion. I've stated my opinion, and stand by what I said. I've fixed countless small engines using the steps I outlined. Finis.

 

[sgkent]

if the choke has a problem, or the air filter is dirty. Also a bad coil can cause it. Any engine needs: appropriate fuel and air mixture, spark, and compression to start. Only need to figure which is missing.

 

[bertsmobile1]

@

bertsmobile1​

has made it clear that he disagrees with me and that he doesn't want any further discussion, period. Fine with me. It's a free country, and everyone is entitled to an opinion. I've stated my opinion, and stand by what I said. I've fixed countless small engines using the steps I outlined. Finis.

Not exactly what was said if you read the post
PDDAILY gets no more help till he replies with the required information
As PD has not replied at all so either the generic information he got was good enough or he went elsewhere .

As for your post ,
I am more than happy to argue the point.
As for the need for engine numbers a simple example
1) the early version of the "e" series B &S engines had a fault with the air box casting that allowed the choke to get caught on SOME engines which was corrected after a particular SERIAL number
The previous versions had a problem with the air filter housing warping and leaking air on the "Air Prime" one only , the fuel pump prime ones were fine
The models with a flywheel brake have a problem with the mounting plate bending , below a particular SERIAL number when the problem was fixed
The E series had a problem with the breather between two serial numbers
All of these could have caused the problems PD was having but no use advising him to check them all if he has a different model engine .

As I understand exactly how engines work we can go into what is happening with what you posted in minute detail if you so desire .
The air filter box has only one tube attached to it and that goes to the breather VALVE
latter engines may have a tube on the manifold which is the fuel tank vent as the EPA no longer allows them to vent to atmosphere unless there is a charcoal filter there to adsorb unburned hydrocarbons .
TH Breather valve is a one way valve designed to allow excessive pressure in the crankcase to vented back into the engine, exactly the same as the PCV valve works on your car.
On most engines B & S use the same reed valve which is simply called "Breather assembly # 590395" and the reed is clearly visible however on latter V twins the reed valve is a stand alone item, not in a case part no 594166 "breather Reed"
The theory behind it is the momentum of the crank case fumes being compressed under the piston will open the valve and allow the gasses to escape
As the piston rises , the valve closes and you get a vacuum in the crankcase which helps keep the oil inside the engine.
It is a throw back from the days of no oil seals & slingers so air would get sucked in through all of the shafts rather than oil leaking out .
Modern engine technology has changed so on high reving engine there is an air in & air out passageway but on mowers it is still a one way system
If you think I am talking BS then shove that tube in your mouth & try to blow through it .
So spraying globs of a fuel ( carb cleaner ) down that tube does nothing but supply an alternative fuel supply which is the jets are not blocked should cause the engine to run rich till all of the goop is used up .
When things get posted that a factually wrong it is the duty of those who know it is wrong to correct it
Readers who come across the thread who do not have the mechanical aptitude to understand can then make up their own minds
No one is perfect, we all make mistakes & that includes me.
However because I trained in science then I am happy to be proven wrong because then I can change my mind so I will forever more be right .

As for causing the engine to suck harder, the only thing that can change the vacuum signal on the main jet is to change the speed the air passes over the emulsion tube which happens when you open & close the throttle butterfly .

 

[slomo]

This ought to be good. Boom arguing with Bert. I hit the Subscribe button and the like button twice. LOL