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Mower will run just fine as long as I keep it running,but if I shut it off it won't restart until it gets cool again?

fuel to air ratio
spark
compression

Figure which is missing and chase down why. For example, a dirty air filter or stuck choke will affect the air to fuel mixture. A bad coil may open with heat soak and then no spark. Or the exhaust valve may be tight and when it expands from the heat of running there is not enough compression at low speed for it to start. An old mower I had did that once and it was a really dirty air cleaner element causing it. On my pressure washer it was a tight exhaust valve causing it.

Thanks,will try

Forums are like computers
Junk in results in junk out
If you want meaningful responses then we need to model trim & serial numbers
And the make model & serial of whatever the B & S is attached to won't hurt either
Otherwise all you will get is generic information.

Gas cap venting?
Ignition coil going bad? Needs load tested for sure.

bertsmobile1 said:

Forums are like computers
Junk in results in junk out
If you want meaningful responses then we need to model trim & serial numbers
And the make model & serial of whatever the B & S is attached to won't hurt either
Otherwise all you will get is generic information.

Click to expand...

<rant>This is SO much BS. The make, model, and serial number have NOTHING to do with mixture, spark, and compression. You're trying to punish the poster with demands for irrelevant information. SPEAK TO THE ISSUE! Regardless of make, model, and serial number, the poster's problem is not that he has the any specific make or model, but that his engine won't start for 30 minutes after he shuts it off. He's not alone in having this issue, and I'd bet money that others who have this issue have DIFFERENT makes and models. Forum Nazis who think that everyone should provide infinite boring detail to ask a simple question are just the worst.</rant>

Now to the issue at hand:

WHY won't the poster's mower start? Offhand, I can think of several possible causes:

1. If the mower stopped because it was out of gas: Maybe there was some floating dust or debris on top of the gas that got sucked into the carburetor. If this is the case, you'll probably need to get a spray can of "starting fluid." Take the air filter off. There's a small hole under the filter where air gets sucked through the filter into the engine. Douche that hole with starting fluid, and then have someone pull the starter cord. The engine should run for a few seconds and then slow to a stop. If so, repeat this process, but while the engine's trying to run, put your thumb over the air inlet hole. This creates a tremendous vacuum at the fuel jet, and will often dislodge trash. You may have to do it a few times...

2. If the mower wouldn't start at all, you may have some water in your gas. This could come from your gas can or even from atmospheric condensation. Water droplets do NOT want to pass through the fuel jet. You may be able to get through this by pouring some "Sea Foam" additive into the gas tank and then using Step 1 above to clear the fuel jet.

3. Before doing any of this, inspect the air filter. Is it so dirty that it's plugged? You can spend time cleaning it, but I just buy a new one at the start of each mowing season (and keep a spare on hand, just in case). The darned foam filters can appear semi-clean but still have gunk inside them. To check the filter, just take it off & try to start the engine. Starts normally? Get a new filter.

4. Check the spark-plug wire. Is it firmly attached to the plug, or did some branch reach up and pull it off? Not attached = no spark. In general, the plug itself lasts the life of the mower, so don't bother pulling it except as a last resort.

Of all the above, Numbers 1 & 2 have been the most effective for me in fixing the "doesn't want to start right" syndrome. Best of luck, amigo!

Well it goes like this
Particular models have particular known problems
having all of the information makes the job of doing a diagnosis on some thing with nothing but words on a screen a whole lot easier.
What you consider to be boring, others find rivetingly interesting .
The full engine details means we do not end up sending the poster down a rabbit hole doing all sorts of tests that are pointless .
The numbers will tell those with access to the Power portal if that particular engine has an auto choke, manual choke, choke-o-matic , no choke or primer
It will also tell the tech if the primer where fitted is a direct fuel pump or an air pump to depress the float
It will also tell us if the engine has a carburettor or is fuel injected ( the later you have totally ignored in your generic response above )

Now on the subject of BS misleading the OP
1) the small hole you are spraying starting fluid into does not allow air into the engine, it vents crankcase vapour OUT of the crankcase
Not sure what you are putting your thumb over but if it is the vent pipe then it does absolutely nothing other than pressurizing the crank case and definately will not cause any cleaning of jets anywhere .
2)Total rubbish.
Water will happily pass through the main jet & get drawn into the engine .
It will not vapourise particularly well but will pass through the carburettor.
Water is a float bowl ( assuming that this is a carburettor engine ) will cause steam ( seen as white smoke ) to come from the exhaust .
It will also cause the mower to stall momentarily , can blow head gaskets but will not rectify itself simply by allowing the engine to get cold

3) The air filter will not be the cause of this problem.
A blocked air filter will prevent the engine starting FROM COLD , not from hot and agin will not self correct when the engine cools down

4) Again not a problem that would prevent a hot engine from restarting , but rectify itself when cold .

So either you have no idea what you are talking about or imply did not read pddaily's original post but just wanted the chance to rant & rave.
So if that is all you have to offer may I suggest that you go back to face book where you belong & leave answering peoples problems to those who actually know what they are doing .

Now pd has not come back so either they have fixed their problem, are ill or indisposed or have given up
When they come back with what we need to know then we will make a concerted effort to fix their problem in a timely & efficient mannar not just assume that OUR problems must be their problems .

Now if you are just out for a dispute, also take notice that this is the last post of yours in this thread I will respond to .
I don't have time for people who just like to ague and throw around emotive terms like Nazi in order to provoke an arguement
Having corrected your incorrect information so future viewers can read both & work out who knows what they are talking about and who is just farting , you now go on my ignore list so post away, slurr me as much as you want if it makes you feel like a real man then go ahead, but I will not see a single letter of it .

folks - OP last posted 4/2/2022 when he said will check for spark, air / fuel, and compression. Maybe he found one missing and fixed it. I agree that having a make, model and serial helps a lot with Internet troubleshooting, but I've rarely used that in my life when I am checking the basic 3 things. And although it doesn't happen often, I too have run out of or low on gasoline once or twice in my life and had to go get some. I've even had water in the fuel a couple times in my life which caught me off guard. Speaking of water in the fuel, had a friend who was preflighting a cessna with a student who was checking the tank. The plane had just been flown 15 minutes before then topped off by the fuel truck. The student is throwing punch after punch of fuel on the ground. My friend goes over, takes the punch from her and says, "do it like this, don't waste so much fuel." He gets a full cup of water. Another. Another. Rain the night before flooded the airport tanks with water, and the fuel truck is now delivering water to about six aircraft. All were caught but one never knows when something will sneak up on you.

There is a world of difference between having to mower right in front of you & trying to do a diagnosis over the web with nothing but words
Even worse because we all use different terms to describe the same things & they often overlap so need to be clarified
Fire = sparks or goes bang once or runs for a couple of seconds ? for example .
I use numbers to pull down IPL's because on a used machine there is no guarantee that any of the parts are what is supposed to be there , or parts that should be there are not missing .
If I did 20 of the same engines a day things are different but I can go months without seeing the same make & model of anything apart from my weekly commercials .
We do not know if it is a ride on with a single , or a twin or a push with a sprint , europa , Quantum or current e series
There is a reason why I am very careful if I recommend some one goes on you tube & Boomzilla is exactly that reason
Some one who thinks they know but has less than no idea what they are doing or why what they did sometimes works .
Even worse he did not read the original post but just wanted too rant about mine
SO nothing he posted will be of any use to PD in any way shape or form .

Wow. So much angst on the innerwebbs. Someone even dropped the N word over a lawn mower. I got no dog in the fight but the OP may want to check if the unidentified unit has an auto choke that is closing when shut off hot and needs to cool down till a rich mixture starts the engine. Not knowing what engine with what type of carb and choke system it is all just guessing.

Just note for some folks it does take a while to get back to a project. All kinds of delays can happen and of course when they get it fix they don't let us know either a lot of the time.

Personally it has been a rough start this year for my business. Delays in parts delivery, customers not mentioning problems, and of course weather delays.

It like the JD Z925A. Came in with a known bad spindle, one ignition coil failing, and parking brake safety problem. Took the mower out for after repairs. First thing right front wobbling all over the place. The bolts holding it arm on was way loose. And while mowing heard a bearing in an idler pulley bearing going bad. Well it back down under I get the 6006-RK bearing in. Meanwhile there is a few other parts that got to be ordered too as the brake linkage is rusted solid and a missing J bolt, nut, and sleeve for center anti scalp rollers. Then there the Scag that came in for maintenance with a hydro oil leak. Resealed unit and service the engine. LF tire was flat so went to repair that. Just leaking around the bead. But I was put on a hold due a seal missing. I still trying to figure how there is no sign of the seal. Should have been a least a metal ring left. Tapered bearing completely impacted with dirt. Seals arrive at closing Saturday. Maybe I can get it out Monday before the rain arrives yet again for another 4 days. Rats...

Then of course was the Yamaha 660 where it need a fuel valve and had a loose battery cable. Repaired those to only find out the supposedly just repaired carburetor wasn't repaired. I had order a kit for it. Then as I was getting all that together that customer mentions the throttle cable sticking. At least I went ahead and got a new fuel level sender. Well I finally got it out but I would not go above 40 mph as I was uncomfortable going any faster.

He was already soaked for a half A job by another shop. He claim they supposedly soak the carb in lemon juice. Well no signs of any cleaning. The secondary fuel filter screen was completely clogged with rust where they only remove the filters in the tank. Even the jets were loose and one had completely fell out. If they rebuilt the carb there should have at least been new o-rings but none were found.

Then there is the darn Polaris 90 that is back again after the customer put in some old 2 cycle oil and it start missing and wont idle. Just had rebuilt the rear end.

Why can't the customer just let know us of all the known problems ahead of time so all the parts can be ordered at the same time. Things like above just throw a wrench into things causing a lot of delays. Plus it adds to cost of repairs as in the Yamaha where I had to charge double for the labor because I had disassemble and reassemble twice the tank area.

Ranting over. I still got a couple hairs left...

As for the problem the OP mentions I have seen it once on an opposed engine where the ignition coil would heat soak while sitting and the electronic fails until it cools back down. In my case it was a borderline good Magnetron coil.

And yes we need the equipment info as it does help to troubleshoot remotely as well as to suggest the correct replacement parts.

Meanwhile I killed one my kids yesterday and going to BBQ her today then pass out the BBQ to my neighbors. So they all will be guilty of eating my kid.

When asking an engine question, it is always helpful to know what engine you are talking about. As a long time follower of this (under a different sign in) and other forums. do not bet against an expert such as bertsmobile1 and certainly do not disrespect them.

Walt Conner

@

bertsmobile1​

has made it clear that he disagrees with me and that he doesn't want any further discussion, period. Fine with me. It's a free country, and everyone is entitled to an opinion. I've stated my opinion, and stand by what I said. I've fixed countless small engines using the steps I outlined. Finis.

if the choke has a problem, or the air filter is dirty. Also a bad coil can cause it. Any engine needs: appropriate fuel and air mixture, spark, and compression to start. Only need to figure which is missing.

Boomzilla said:

@

bertsmobile1​

has made it clear that he disagrees with me and that he doesn't want any further discussion, period. Fine with me. It's a free country, and everyone is entitled to an opinion. I've stated my opinion, and stand by what I said. I've fixed countless small engines using the steps I outlined. Finis.

Click to expand...

Not exactly what was said if you read the post
PDDAILY gets no more help till he replies with the required information
As PD has not replied at all so either the generic information he got was good enough or he went elsewhere .

As for your post ,
I am more than happy to argue the point.
As for the need for engine numbers a simple example
1) the early version of the "e" series B &S engines had a fault with the air box casting that allowed the choke to get caught on SOME engines which was corrected after a particular SERIAL number
The previous versions had a problem with the air filter housing warping and leaking air on the "Air Prime" one only , the fuel pump prime ones were fine
The models with a flywheel brake have a problem with the mounting plate bending , below a particular SERIAL number when the problem was fixed
The E series had a problem with the breather between two serial numbers
All of these could have caused the problems PD was having but no use advising him to check them all if he has a different model engine .

As I understand exactly how engines work we can go into what is happening with what you posted in minute detail if you so desire .
The air filter box has only one tube attached to it and that goes to the breather VALVE
latter engines may have a tube on the manifold which is the fuel tank vent as the EPA no longer allows them to vent to atmosphere unless there is a charcoal filter there to adsorb unburned hydrocarbons .
TH Breather valve is a one way valve designed to allow excessive pressure in the crankcase to vented back into the engine, exactly the same as the PCV valve works on your car.
On most engines B & S use the same reed valve which is simply called "Breather assembly # 590395" and the reed is clearly visible however on latter V twins the reed valve is a stand alone item, not in a case part no 594166 "breather Reed"
The theory behind it is the momentum of the crank case fumes being compressed under the piston will open the valve and allow the gasses to escape
As the piston rises , the valve closes and you get a vacuum in the crankcase which helps keep the oil inside the engine.
It is a throw back from the days of no oil seals & slingers so air would get sucked in through all of the shafts rather than oil leaking out .
Modern engine technology has changed so on high reving engine there is an air in & air out passageway but on mowers it is still a one way system
If you think I am talking BS then shove that tube in your mouth & try to blow through it .
So spraying globs of a fuel ( carb cleaner ) down that tube does nothing but supply an alternative fuel supply which is the jets are not blocked should cause the engine to run rich till all of the goop is used up .
When things get posted that a factually wrong it is the duty of those who know it is wrong to correct it
Readers who come across the thread who do not have the mechanical aptitude to understand can then make up their own minds
No one is perfect, we all make mistakes & that includes me.
However because I trained in science then I am happy to be proven wrong because then I can change my mind so I will forever more be right .

As for causing the engine to suck harder, the only thing that can change the vacuum signal on the main jet is to change the speed the air passes over the emulsion tube which happens when you open & close the throttle butterfly .

This ought to be good. Boom arguing with Bert. I hit the Subscribe button and the like button twice. LOL