That code is not one I am familiar with.
However if it has a Briggs engine in it the first 2 digits of the serial number will be the year ,
From that I would go to jacks web page
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/
and click on the parts look up and when the screen redraws click on Murray.
That will bring up the Murray mowers by year page.
Select the year from the engine ( hoping it has not been changed ) then Lawn & garden then riding mowers.
Now right click/ shift click etc to open in a new tab on lawn tractors then the deck size .
After that pick any model you like, most will be the same steering wise.
Depending upon just how old the mower is it might have a peerless box and a fixed real axel, thus no diff thus very wide turning radius .
You actually steer these going backwards ( like a reverse park ) to get the tightest turns.
As for the drag links, yes they all have funny bends and no you can never bend them back to be straight.
You will see that the bends are to allow the front axel to pivot and the steering rods to clear the deck & belts.
The worst case you will need to cut the one that is too long and fit a threaded sleeve to adjust them.
If it is old then it will have adjustable tie rod ends & again I fit them to a lot of mowers that have non adjustable steering rods.
When the front wheel runs into a rut on full lock the mower is quite capable of bending the rods way out of adjustment.
The pivot bush ( or lack there of ) in the front cross member can allow the front member to roll when you turn which makes things worse.
Back in the days when people would pay an honest amout for a riding mower so there was profit in making them Murray was one of the names behind the big brand names that you recognise today.
