exotion
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Good advice for you! That's how you keep annual machine going. Do all that and don't beat it to death(that's the usual cause of my machines breaking)
Engine Type of Oil for Push Mower
- Thread starter meppwc
- Start date
Good advice for you! That's how you keep annual machine going. Do all that and don't beat it to death(that's the usual cause of my machines breaking)
Unless LawnBoy is still making them, no push mower has a two stroke cycle engine. That said four stroke cycle oil goes into the crankcase, two stroke cycle oil is mixed into the gasoline and are not interchangeable. To confuse the issue there are four stroke cycle trimmers (weedeater) engines that use oil mixed with the fuel (fuel mix oil is needed).
The type of engine and your local temperatures will affect the best type of non mix oil to use. Old style Briggs without overhead valves do not do well with multiviscosity oils (10w***, 15w***, 20w***), 10w30 is reccomended for most overhead valve lawn mower engines. If the temperature is above 20 degrees F. most push mower engines can get by on straight 30 weight high detergent (do not use non detergent oil). if you are working at extreme temperatures both low and high a multiviscosity oil such as 15w40, 20w50 micht be advisable. Change oil at the beginning of your cutting season and again at half time if you cut a large area (more than a hour a week). If you do not use your mower for a month or more off season, either run it for 15/20 minutes every other week or get it winterized for storage. Keep the fuel tank full or completely empty(dry) to reduce condensation of humidity into the fuel.
The type of engine and your local temperatures will affect the best type of non mix oil to use. Old style Briggs without overhead valves do not do well with multiviscosity oils (10w***, 15w***, 20w***), 10w30 is reccomended for most overhead valve lawn mower engines. If the temperature is above 20 degrees F. most push mower engines can get by on straight 30 weight high detergent (do not use non detergent oil). if you are working at extreme temperatures both low and high a multiviscosity oil such as 15w40, 20w50 micht be advisable. Change oil at the beginning of your cutting season and again at half time if you cut a large area (more than a hour a week). If you do not use your mower for a month or more off season, either run it for 15/20 minutes every other week or get it winterized for storage. Keep the fuel tank full or completely empty(dry) to reduce condensation of humidity into the fuel.
Derson59
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This is what they tell you in the manuals too. I would agree 30w for normal range temps. 10w-30 When you hit lower temps outside.
ONLY if it is an OverHead Valve engine. If it is a Flat/L-Head engine, it requires a straight 30
Can someone explain to me in a simple way why a multi weight oil is better in an OHV lawn mower vs. SAE 30?
I have read many Briggs manuals and a fair amount of manuals for Asian made small engines.
It does seem that the Asian engines spec 10w-30 while the Briggs engines will provide a chart based on ambient temperature. My guess is that the Asian Mfg want to cover them selves for all conditions and are keeping it simple for themselves as well as their customers.
According to Briggs 10w-30 or synthetic 5w-30 are acceptable and will cover both cold and hot temperature ranges. However you will burn the oil at a faster rate. It states below 40F the SAE 30 may cause hard starting.
Most people will only run a lawn mower 45 degree F or warmer. Unless it is a convenience issue why not run the SAE 30 and not worry about running low.
So back to my question. If you only run your OHV mower always above 45F. Why would a multi grade oil be better or the best.?
As a separate question......Just curious...how often do people out there cut grass when it is colder than even 50F? I think that is about 10C.
I have read many Briggs manuals and a fair amount of manuals for Asian made small engines.
It does seem that the Asian engines spec 10w-30 while the Briggs engines will provide a chart based on ambient temperature. My guess is that the Asian Mfg want to cover them selves for all conditions and are keeping it simple for themselves as well as their customers.
According to Briggs 10w-30 or synthetic 5w-30 are acceptable and will cover both cold and hot temperature ranges. However you will burn the oil at a faster rate. It states below 40F the SAE 30 may cause hard starting.
Most people will only run a lawn mower 45 degree F or warmer. Unless it is a convenience issue why not run the SAE 30 and not worry about running low.
So back to my question. If you only run your OHV mower always above 45F. Why would a multi grade oil be better or the best.?
As a separate question......Just curious...how often do people out there cut grass when it is colder than even 50F? I think that is about 10C.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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Oil viscosities are temperature dependent and design dependent.
To work properly you need a specific volume of oil at a specific viscosity.
Thus you use what the makers recommend
Honda for example use 10w30 or 10w40
Up side is the lighter base oil makes them a lot easier to start.
Downside is the thinner oil when cold makes them a lot more prone to leaking
Multi grade oil is no better and no worse than monograde oil.
It is a low viscosity base oil with additives that prevent it getting thinner when it gets hot
So at 100 deg it is the same viscosity as 30 would be at 100 deg.
OHV or SV it makes o difference,
Mower oils are different to car oils as they are designed for air cooled engines where the temperature variations within the engine are a lot higher than water cooled engines.
A lot of motorcycle oils are of a similar formulation for the same reason.
However mower oils have extra chemicals in there to prevent corrosion because the engines sit around for weeks doing nothing.
To work properly you need a specific volume of oil at a specific viscosity.
Thus you use what the makers recommend
Honda for example use 10w30 or 10w40
Up side is the lighter base oil makes them a lot easier to start.
Downside is the thinner oil when cold makes them a lot more prone to leaking
Multi grade oil is no better and no worse than monograde oil.
It is a low viscosity base oil with additives that prevent it getting thinner when it gets hot
So at 100 deg it is the same viscosity as 30 would be at 100 deg.
OHV or SV it makes o difference,
Mower oils are different to car oils as they are designed for air cooled engines where the temperature variations within the engine are a lot higher than water cooled engines.
A lot of motorcycle oils are of a similar formulation for the same reason.
However mower oils have extra chemicals in there to prevent corrosion because the engines sit around for weeks doing nothing.
Thanks, you are confirming my hunch that for warmer weather use SAE 30, mono grade oil, would offer an advantage because you will not burn or leak as much. Said otherwise, your usage rate will be lower and the chance of running low is diminished. Regardless of OVH or SV engine style.
What a thread. So I'll add my $0.02. (I'm near retirement and it's raining outside.)
Four-stroke engines.
On a new engine I follow the manufacturers guidance. (Interesting story, I wanted to use synthetic at my first change. Down to the dealer to buy a quart and he told me not o use synthetic until I had xx hours on the engine, I disagreed and showed him where it allowed it in the owners manual (off of a similar model). So we called Simplicity. Finally got to the engineer who specs out the engines. He told us that he had had long talks with the Briggs engineers and they all agreed that only conventional oil should be used in the first xx hours to allow the rings to sit properly. (He was also surprised to learn that that was not the way it was stated in the owners manual, different department, et el).)
So on a new engine, dino juice for the first year. After that I use 5W30 synthetic (usually Mobile One as it's on sale the most).
Any 4-stroke oil that marked with ILSAC GF-2, has an API certification, and lists “SJ/CF Energy Conserving”.
As to using two-stroke oil in a four-stroke engine. Will it work? Sure. So will corn oil. (For a while). Excellent way to cause premature engine wear. (See additional comments below.)
Two stroke engines (such as trimmers and the like).
Now this is where it gets important. Two-cycle oils are intended for consumption during the fuel burning process are are specially formulated with additive chemistry and base oils which tend to leave minimum amounts of ash. Two-cycle oils are also pre-diluted for easier mixing and more complete combustion.
The best two-cycle oils are labeled with a symbol from the National Marine Manufacturers Association and are given the designation TC-W3. ("TC" stands for two-cycle, "W" means water-cooled and "3" designates the most current generation of two-cycle oils.)
It's also important to use the right quantity in mixing the oil. Mixing too little is obvious, bearing scuffing, engine wear; too much can lead to ring sticking (not allowing the rings to rotate or move in the lands).
More importantly than which brand, is THE TYPE OF GASOLINE. Gas basically comes to two flavors. Those mixed with Ethanol and those not mixed with Ethanol. Ethanol is an alcohol. Depending on the temperature and humidity, the Ethanol begins to separate from gas in as little as 30 days. (It will also start to draw water from the air to itself and this forms a gum deposit that will plug the tiny jets in a carburetor.)
But it's the separation that causes the most problems. When a small engine sucks in gas that has a high content of alcohol, the octane rating jumps. The temperatures in the cylinder skyrockets and will melt the cylinder head or burn a hole in the top of the piston.
One way to counteract this is to ONLY use Premium gas in small engine equipment. Premium has a higher octane rating. The octane rating of gasoline tells you how much the fuel can be compressed before it spontaneously ignites. It causes the engine to run cooler. Basically it limits the highest temperature an engine will run at when exposed to Ethanol that has separated out. (It's also the reason you should NOT use premium in your automobile if it doesn't call for it. Your mileage will drop.) Some dealers recommend mid-grade, I like 93 octane.
Another factor on gas, TOP-TIER gas IS better than off-brand. Google "top tier gas stations" and it will show you a map of all the top-tier gas stations in your area. Top-tier gas has better additives, better in your car, but also better for the small engine as well (just not as important as automobile grade service.)
The last thing is to use a good gas treatment. I use Sea Foam. Keeping in mind that gas starts to go bad the minute it's exposed to air, I mix Sea Foam to my empty gas can, BEFORE I add the gas. Add about a gallon, slosh it around to mix it, then continue filling to the 5-gallon mark.
There was some discussion about using 4-stroke oil in a 2-stroke engine. In four-cycle engine, the oil is circulated by way of a splash lubrication or actual oil pump. In any case its specifically designed for this type of service. Two-cycle oil is NOT designed to be circulated and is intended to burn up inside the cylinder.
Two-cycles oils have a lower flash point than four-cycles (example; 2 cycle = 132°C vs. 4 cycle = 226°C
lower viscosity (2 cycle = 8.7 cSt@100°C vs. 4 cycle = 10.8 cSt@100°C). You NEED higher viscosity oil to withstand the higher temperatures of the four-cycle engine. Two-cycle oil cannot withstand temperatures above 132°C and will fail to lubricate a hot four-cycle engine.
If you use four-cycle oil in a two-cycle engine, it will work, but it will also carbon up the cylinder and valves. Using a 30-weight non-detergent would be the best bet. But n small engines like a trimmer, it could seize the engine. Best not to do it at all. Additionally a non-2T-specific oil can turn to gum in a matter of days if mixed with gasoline and not immediately consumed.
Four-stroke engines.
On a new engine I follow the manufacturers guidance. (Interesting story, I wanted to use synthetic at my first change. Down to the dealer to buy a quart and he told me not o use synthetic until I had xx hours on the engine, I disagreed and showed him where it allowed it in the owners manual (off of a similar model). So we called Simplicity. Finally got to the engineer who specs out the engines. He told us that he had had long talks with the Briggs engineers and they all agreed that only conventional oil should be used in the first xx hours to allow the rings to sit properly. (He was also surprised to learn that that was not the way it was stated in the owners manual, different department, et el).)
So on a new engine, dino juice for the first year. After that I use 5W30 synthetic (usually Mobile One as it's on sale the most).
Any 4-stroke oil that marked with ILSAC GF-2, has an API certification, and lists “SJ/CF Energy Conserving”.
As to using two-stroke oil in a four-stroke engine. Will it work? Sure. So will corn oil. (For a while). Excellent way to cause premature engine wear. (See additional comments below.)
Two stroke engines (such as trimmers and the like).
Now this is where it gets important. Two-cycle oils are intended for consumption during the fuel burning process are are specially formulated with additive chemistry and base oils which tend to leave minimum amounts of ash. Two-cycle oils are also pre-diluted for easier mixing and more complete combustion.
The best two-cycle oils are labeled with a symbol from the National Marine Manufacturers Association and are given the designation TC-W3. ("TC" stands for two-cycle, "W" means water-cooled and "3" designates the most current generation of two-cycle oils.)
It's also important to use the right quantity in mixing the oil. Mixing too little is obvious, bearing scuffing, engine wear; too much can lead to ring sticking (not allowing the rings to rotate or move in the lands).
More importantly than which brand, is THE TYPE OF GASOLINE. Gas basically comes to two flavors. Those mixed with Ethanol and those not mixed with Ethanol. Ethanol is an alcohol. Depending on the temperature and humidity, the Ethanol begins to separate from gas in as little as 30 days. (It will also start to draw water from the air to itself and this forms a gum deposit that will plug the tiny jets in a carburetor.)
But it's the separation that causes the most problems. When a small engine sucks in gas that has a high content of alcohol, the octane rating jumps. The temperatures in the cylinder skyrockets and will melt the cylinder head or burn a hole in the top of the piston.
One way to counteract this is to ONLY use Premium gas in small engine equipment. Premium has a higher octane rating. The octane rating of gasoline tells you how much the fuel can be compressed before it spontaneously ignites. It causes the engine to run cooler. Basically it limits the highest temperature an engine will run at when exposed to Ethanol that has separated out. (It's also the reason you should NOT use premium in your automobile if it doesn't call for it. Your mileage will drop.) Some dealers recommend mid-grade, I like 93 octane.
Another factor on gas, TOP-TIER gas IS better than off-brand. Google "top tier gas stations" and it will show you a map of all the top-tier gas stations in your area. Top-tier gas has better additives, better in your car, but also better for the small engine as well (just not as important as automobile grade service.)
The last thing is to use a good gas treatment. I use Sea Foam. Keeping in mind that gas starts to go bad the minute it's exposed to air, I mix Sea Foam to my empty gas can, BEFORE I add the gas. Add about a gallon, slosh it around to mix it, then continue filling to the 5-gallon mark.
There was some discussion about using 4-stroke oil in a 2-stroke engine. In four-cycle engine, the oil is circulated by way of a splash lubrication or actual oil pump. In any case its specifically designed for this type of service. Two-cycle oil is NOT designed to be circulated and is intended to burn up inside the cylinder.
Two-cycles oils have a lower flash point than four-cycles (example; 2 cycle = 132°C vs. 4 cycle = 226°C
lower viscosity (2 cycle = 8.7 cSt@100°C vs. 4 cycle = 10.8 cSt@100°C). You NEED higher viscosity oil to withstand the higher temperatures of the four-cycle engine. Two-cycle oil cannot withstand temperatures above 132°C and will fail to lubricate a hot four-cycle engine. If you use four-cycle oil in a two-cycle engine, it will work, but it will also carbon up the cylinder and valves. Using a 30-weight non-detergent would be the best bet. But n small engines like a trimmer, it could seize the engine. Best not to do it at all. Additionally a non-2T-specific oil can turn to gum in a matter of days if mixed with gasoline and not immediately consumed.