Turf Tracer 52" replacement engine for Kawasaki 17hp

[Overkill66]

Hello!

I have an Ex Mark Turf Tracer model TT5217KAEC with a 17 hp Kawasaki motor, (code FH500V-AS15), (E/WO FH500VB16243). It runs great but it leaks oil out of the top of the motor around the crank seal badly. I put in a new crank seal and it took that one out in a matter of hours. So it seems that the crank is moving around a lot and it's time to replace the engine.

I have found replacement engines for $1,500 to $2,000 range but that is more than I would like to spend as I only use it to mow my home (about 4-5 acres). This machine is awsome for the way it mows and does side hills.

Anyway, does anyone have a suggestion for a good motor that would be less expensive that I could convert it to. I am a pretty good fabricator and I can weld, wire etc. I was thinking a briggs twin as they should be plentiful used and parts would be easy to get. I would also like to keep the electric start feature I currently enjoy.

I am in the process of taking the motor off now.

I love this machine and it looks like the hydro system is completely separate and well out of the way. I would love to save it if I can afford it, because anything I replace it with would be a lot less machine.

I would greatly appreciate your thoughts!

 

[Carscw]

What I do is find a riding mower with a bad deck or transaxle. Buy it cheap and use the engine.
I would also go up in HP

 

[bertsmobile1]

If you are in the practice of mowing along hills ( and we all do more or less ) you might need to look into this as prolonged running at an angle cause oil flow problems which manifest themselves as excessive wear.

You won't find much under the $1500 mark new and nothing other than the original engine will drop strait in and plug right up.
However if you are confident with wiring places like SES & SEW both have brand new Briggs & Kohlers at heavily discounted prices, Briggs especially as the new Cyclonic series has replaced the old series and there are a lot of new mower pull engines to be had at silly prices.
Just remember that you are going to have to make up new control cables , replace most of the electrical connectors and make up some headers to fit the muffler so there is a bit of work in it.
OTOH you are going onto your off season so you hava a bit of time to fiddle with it before next season.

 

[Overkill66]

Those are good points. After some more thought I realized I have a husqvarna lawn tractor with a Briggs vtwin, around 23hp. If it is the right shaft size then I think I will use this motor as I know it has had nothing but synthetic oil since new and the motor runs great. I am ready to replace the tractor soon anyway. This motor is wider by about 4" so I will have to move the battery box and starter solenoid, but those are straightforward, and as you said, I have some time now. The pain will be in the muffler and the wiring. That way the motor costs me nothing to begin with. If it fails later it will be a straight swap which will be easy at that point. Wish me luck....

 

[bertsmobile1]

Shaft diameter & lengths will be the same, bolt spacings should be wider on the V twin.
Being a ZTR engine placing is not so critical so you can use one hole and redrill the other 3.
Remove the rocker covers and drop the engine into the hole then check you can easily replace the rocker covers and have space to pull the pushrods out otherwise you will have to pull the engine to do service which is a PIA.
Same applies to the oil filter, you have to be able to get some sort of wrench on it with turning room and space to clear the center tube to replace it and you need to get some sort of a drain pan under it or there will be hot oil every where.
Get an oil drain extension tube and valve and fit these to the drain plug. If you fit the valve into the drain plug then the hose length and integrity is unimportant.
You also need to be able to get a wrench to all of the engine cover bolts or you will not be able to remove the top cover to clean the block and access the ignition coils.

None of the electric plugs will be the same, so cut the wires on the mower side of the plugs, cut them long to give yourself plenty of cable to play with.
Both engines should have recti-fryers so they should not be a problem but check the alternator output on the Briggs http://www.briggsandstratton.com/~/media/Files/FAQs/BriggsAndStratton/PDFs/alternator_replacement.pdf.
You need 6 amps for the clutch and at least 4 more for recharging the battery or it will be on the battery tender very night.

 

[Overkill66]

Thanks! That is some great information! I have the mower in and have removed the engine. I have moved the battery box and the starter solenoid so there is more room. It is ready for the new motor but now I cant decide what to do. I am not ready to take the motor out of the tractor because I may want to spread fertilizer one more time before winter. I guess for now I will keep looking for a motor until it gets closer to snow. If it gets close and I haven't found one yet I will use the one from the tractor. What are the best 20+hp engines for longevity and availability?

 

[bertsmobile1]

They are sort of inversely proportional.
The Honda & Kawakasi engies are built to a much higer specification than the Briggs & Kohlers and that costs a lot more money.
Briggs & Kohler parts are easier to come by and previously have had a much longer availability.
Briggs & Kohler make their engines in domestic & commercial grades. Honda & Kawakasi only make commercial grade engines.
An engine 10% bigger than the original will have an easier life so if maintained properly should give a longer service life but will cost more to run.
Kawakasi & Honda parts are a lot more expensive than Briggs & Kohler parts.
Another Yawakasi engine will plug in easier than any other brand.

The cheapest fix will be to bush the top bearing in your original engine providing the bore is in serviceable condition.
New rings & con rod, new valves and a bush in the top will be about 1/3 the price of a new engine.

 

[Micah Haarhoff]

do you want it new or used? I would try craigs list for lawn mowers with bad decks or what ever and take the engine of there

 

[Rivets]

Before you go to far would you check to see if the oil return passage way is open and allowing oil to return to the crankcase. I had a Kohler last summer which would blow out the seal 30 minutes of operation. After my hair turned white and I was about to throw it in the junk, I found this passage way was plugged and the oil under pressure would blow out the seal.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Another valuable piece of inormation to add to the list.
Thanks for sharing that